Sesame oil: the ancient treasure that regenerates, moisturizes, and protects
For more than three millennia, sesame oil derived from the seeds of Sesamum indicum is used in beauty rituals in tropical and subtropical regions. Today, it is recognized as a leading dermatological active ingredient thanks to its specific lipid profile, unrivalled richness in natural antioxidants, and virtually zero comedogenicity. Let's find out why this dry, discreet but powerful oil has become an essential ally for fragile skin and thirsty hair.
1. Botanical origin and method of production
Sesame belongs to the family of Pedaliaceae. The best cosmetic qualities come from cold-pressing the seeds, a technique that preserves all of the polyphenols (sesamine, sesamoline, sesamol) and tocopherols responsible for the oil's high oxidative stability.
2. Bioactive composition
- Essential fatty acids : 37–48 % of linoleic acid (omega-6) and 35–50 % of oleic acid (omega-9) nourish and soften the skin.
- Natural antioxidants : vitamin E and lignans (phenolic compounds present in seeds) neutralize free radicals.
- Comedogenic rating ~1 : suitable even for combination skin or skin prone to blemishes.
3. Mechanisms of action
Shield against oxidative stress
Lignans and vitamin E reduce lipid peroxidation and delay skin aging caused by sun exposure, pollution, or tobacco.
Hydration and restoration of the barrier
A single application increases hydration of the stratum corneum by 27% and reduces trans-epidermal water loss, thanks to the non-occlusive lipid film it forms on the skin's surface.
Soothing and anti-inflammatory action
Lignans inhibit the expression of interleukins, pro-inflammatory proteins, which reduces redness and discomfort, and may relieve certain skin conditions such as eczema or irritant dermatitis.
Additional sun protection
Recent studies have shown that phenolic compounds partially absorb UV rays; however, the protection factor remains low (< 5) and does not replace an approved sunscreen.
4. Hair benefits
Applied as an oil treatment or finishing treatment, it coats the hair fiber, restores the cuticle, and revives shine. Its antioxidant content may also help delay the appearance of gray hair by combating oxidative stress in the hair bulb.
5. Recommendations for use
- Face : oil or serum to strengthen the lipid barrier.
- Body : dry oil, massage into skin after showering to maintain elasticity and prevent tightness.
- Hair : oil treatment, 20 minutes before shampooing, to protect against heat and breakage.
6. Precautions and storage
Well tolerated by all skin types, sesame oil may nevertheless contain glycoproteins that cause allergic reactions. A 24-hour skin test on the inner elbow is recommended, especially in cases of known allergies to seeds or nuts.
Keep the bottle closed, away from light and heat (< 25°C); its high oxidative stability allows for optimal use for six to nine months after opening.
