The formula for this iconic French drugstore cream has changed: here's what I think about it

The range Avène Hydrance is one of those moisturizers that have been a staple in French bathrooms and drugstores for years.

But the formula for the Hydrance Light Moisturizing Cream has changed. Avène now markets it as a light-textured cream designed for normal to combination skin, including sensitive skin, which is designed to keep the skin hydrated, supple, and soft all day long.

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So I took a closer look at his new list of ingredients.

And there was something that surprised me: For a cream called “Light,” its formula actually contains a lot of fats and emollients.

The formula begins with the’Avène Thermal Spring Water, followed immediately by the glycerin.

And that's a really good point.

Glycerin is one of the most traditional and effective humectants in cosmetics. It helps retain water in the stratum corneum and plays a direct role in skin hydration.

But it's what happens right after that interests me more.

For a «Light» cream, plenty of emollients

Ranked third through seventh are, among others:

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, C14-22 Alcohols, Dimethicone, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, and Triethylhexanoin.

In other words, we have a sequence of’emollients, oils, and silicone very high in the formula.

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, and Triethylhexanoin primarily provide emollience, glide, and suppleness to the skin.

Visit dimethicone, listed in fifth place, is a silicone that helps smooth the skin's surface and reduce water loss.

Then, further down in the formula, we find more phytosterols and squalane.

That doesn't necessarily mean the cream will feel heavy when applied. Some of these emollients are actually ideal for achieving a pleasant and relatively light texture.

But when we look only at the formula's structure, the proportion of emollients is quite high.

«Light» doesn't necessarily mean «low in fat»

This is an important distinction.

In cosmetics, a cream can contain several emollients while still providing a feels light on the skin.

The final texture depends on the formulation as a whole: the type of emollients, silicones, polymers, emulsifiers, proportions, etc.

The term «Light» therefore describes the sensory experience of the product rather than simply the amount of fatty ingredients listed in the INCI list.

However, if you have very oily skin and are looking for an extremely light, almost watery cream, this formula isn't necessarily the one I would turn to first.

A moisturizing formula that's actually quite simple

Another thing that strikes me is that there is very few specific assets.

But this isn't just another cream packed with niacinamide, ceramides, peptides, or other trendy active ingredients.

Who would I recommend this cream to?

Avène positions Hydrance Light for sensitive normal to combination skin.

After analyzing the formula, I would take a slightly more nuanced view.

For a normal skin For dry, normal, or oily skin, the formulation seems well-balanced to me: glycerin for hydration and enough emollients to provide comfort and help the skin retain moisture.

On the other hand, for a very oily skin, If I have oily skin and am looking for an extremely lightweight texture, I would probably opt for a formula with fewer emollients and a more gel- or gel-cream-like consistency.

The name of a cream isn't enough to tell if it's really right for your skin.

We also need to look at how the formula is constructed.

Scan your moisturizer

To find out if your moisturizer is right for your skin type  Download the Beauty Decoded app (iOS and Android) Scan your products, decipher their INCI listings, and compare what the packaging promises with what the formula actually contains.

The rating depends on your skin!