These Molecules That Change Everything: Cosmetic Active Ingredients Explained
Whatever your skin type and whatever the weather, it's the subtle alchemy of cosmetic active ingredients which determines the actual effectiveness of a skincare product. Deep hydration, spot correction, or wrinkle smoothing: each promise stems from a specific compound, validated by scientific testing. Take a look behind the scenes at these key molecules to understand how they work, how they are manufactured, and what criteria guarantee their safety.
1. What is an asset?
A cosmetic active ingredient is a substance with scientifically proven biological activity; it gives the product its claimed benefit (moisturizing, brightening, soothing, etc.). Objective testing defines the minimum effective concentration and distinguishes the active ingredient from excipients, which are used to stabilize or perfume the formula.
2. Origin and manufacturing processes
- Plant or algae: extraction by maceration, infusion, cryogenic grinding (seaweed).
- Mineral: purification and micronization of clays or salts.
- Biotechnology: controlled fermentation to produce, for example, hyaluronic acid.
- Chemical synthesis: laboratory reproduction of molecules such as retinol or niacinamide.
The common goal: to guarantee high purity and consistent reproducibility while complying with environmental standards.
3. European regulatory framework
Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 sets concentration thresholds and requires rigorous safety assessments prior to marketing. For example, vitamin A derivatives are limited in order to avoid any risk of systemic overexposure, while a specific list of fragrance allergens must be mentioned from 0.001% in leave-on products.
4. Overview of key assets
4.1 Hydration and barrier function
- Hyaluronic acid : retains up to a thousand times its weight in water.
- Ceramides : restore intercellular cohesion.
- Squalane : biomimetic emollient that limits insensible water loss.
4.2 Prevention of skin aging
- Retinol : stimulates collagen and cell renewal.
- Signaling peptides : encourage elastin synthesis for greater firmness.
- Coenzyme Q10 : lipophilic antioxidant that protects against UV rays.
4.3 Even skin tone and radiance
- Tranexamic acid : inhibits melanin production, useful against melasma.
- Stabilized vitamin C : neutralizes free radicals, revives radiance.
- Alpha-arbutin : reduces the activity of tyrosinase, which is responsible for hyperpigmentation.
4.4 Sebum regulation and blemishes
- Salicylic acid : fat-soluble keratolytic that unclogs pores.
- Niacinamide : balances sebum production and soothes redness.
- Zinc PCA : sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory action.
4.5 Soothing reactive skin
- Allantoin : promotes tissue regeneration.
- Bisabolol : plant-based derivative with anti-inflammatory properties.
5. Evaluate the effectiveness of an asset
- Concentration: Check the advertised content against clinically proven thresholds.
- Chemical form: an encapsulated active ingredient (retinol, vitamin C) ensures controlled release.
- Synergy / Incompatibility: For example, retinol + AHA = increased risk of photosensitivity.
- Clinical evidence: give preference to ingredients that have undergone extensive testing and been published in scientific journals.
6. Best practices for implementation
- Gradually introduce potentially irritating ingredients (two-week period recommended).
- Apply sunscreen during the day when using retinol, AHA, or BHA at night.
- Adjust frequency: peptides and antioxidants morning and evening; retinol exclusively in the evening.
