Woman Applying Skincare Serum for Healthy Glowing Skin Routine at Home — Credit @envato

Visit cosmetic active ingredients play a crucial role in our skincare routine, bringing many benefits to our skin. Whether of natural or synthetic origin, these specific components are designed to target a variety of skin problems, from signs of aging to imperfections or brown spots. But how do we find our way through this sea of possibilities and, more importantly, how do we avoid unfortunate combinations that can sometimes do more harm than good?

Understanding the different categories of cosmetic active ingredients

Facial active ingredients

As the face is one of the most sensitive areas of our body, finding the right active ingredients is essential. The main benefits sought include anti-aging, moisturizing, nourishing, purifying and soothing properties. For example:

Anti-âge : Retinol, derived from vitamin A, is recognized for its powerful properties in reducing wrinkles and fine lines.
Hydratation : Hyaluronic acid, known for its ultra-hydrating effect, helps maintain water in the skin, promoting a plumped, soft appearance.
Nourrissant : Natural oils such as argan oil can provide essential nutrients and suppleness to the skin.
Purifiant : Salicylic acid can be used to unclog pores and reduce the appearance of pimples.

Combinations to avoid: a delicate balance

Understanding which combinations of active ingredients can lead to complications is just as important as knowing their benefits. Sometimes, mixing certain active ingredients can render their use ineffective, or even harmful to the skin.

Pure vitamin C and exfoliating acids

Visit vitamin Calso known as ascorbic acid, is highly effective in brightening the complexion and reducing the signs of aging. However, it must be combined with with care exfoliating acids such as AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), glycolic acid or salicylic acid. These combinations can cause skin irritation.

PS: The combination of vitamin C derivative and exfoliating acid is quite possible.. To find out whether a serum contains pure vitamin C or a vitamin C derivative, it's easy: just download the beautydecoded application.

Exfoliants and retinol:

If you combine an exfoliating acid and retinol in the same routine, the retinol may degrade and lose effectiveness. What's more, this combination can increase the risk of irritation. Since AHAs and retinol are often used in the evening, here's an approach I recommend: apply retinol five times a week, exfoliants once a week, and give yourself an evening without irritating active ingredients. Another option is to use retinol three times a week and exfoliants once or twice. It's important to understand that the effectiveness of retinol does not depend on its daily application.

Retinol and vitamin C:

A classic anti-aging routine is to use vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening. However, many people have difficulty tolerating pure vitamin C in the morning combined with retinol in the evening. In this case, I recommend opting for vitamin C derivatives in the morning if you use retinol in the evening. On the other hand, it is not advisable to apply pure vitamin C at acidic pH just before or after retinol, as this can lead to degradation of the latter.

Copper peptides and retinol :

This is still a matter of debate, but if you want to make them part of your routine, opt for copper peptide in the morning and retinol in the evening, or alternate them every other night. Avoid combining copper peptides with pure vitamin C or exfoliants.

Vitamin C and niacinamide combination:

Yes, this combination is quite possible. Ideas to the contrary stem from old research from the 1960s, which is no longer relevant today. Not only is there no problem in combining them, it can even be beneficial in treating pigmentation spots, as these two active ingredients act in a complementary way: vitamin C inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme responsible for pigment production, while niacinamide blocks their transfer.

General precautions :

Every skin reacts differently to active ingredients. Before introducing a new product, test it first on a small area to observe your tolerance. Never start several new products at the same time: in the event of a reaction, it will be easier to identify the source of the problem. Take care of your skin and see you soon!