This plant-based protein will transform your hair, skin, and nails: Discover Phytokeratin.
Long reserved for hair care, plant-based keratin – or phytokeratin – is now recognized as a versatile cosmetic ingredient. Derived from hydrolyzed plant proteins, it is valued for its ability to mimic the biological functions of human keratin. Let's take a closer look at its origins, mechanisms of action, and benefits.
What is phytokeratin?
Phytokeratin is an active ingredient obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of plant proteins : a process of breaking down proteins using water and enzymes, mainly those from wheat or sweet almond. This transformation allows long protein chains to be cut into smaller fragments – called peptides – which are easily absorbed by the skin, hair, and nails.
Biochemically, phytokeratin consists of a diverse spectrum of amino acids, including proline, serine, leucine or even cysteine. Its composition is very similar to that of human keratin, which allows it to interact effectively with the body's natural structures.
Phytokeratin is compatible with vegan formulation choices and complies with the growing ethical constraints in the cosmetics industry.
A natural affinity with the skin
On the skin, phytokeratin acts primarily as a film-forming agent. Once applied, it forms an invisible layer on the skin's surface, strengthening the natural epidermal barrier. This film limits water loss, improves moisture retention, and protects against external aggressions.
This action is valuable for skin prone to dehydration, redness, or premature aging. By providing elasticity, it also helps smooth superficial fine lines and improve the overall texture of the epidermis.
Phytokeratin is therefore recommended for facial care, particularly in serums, moisturizers, firming treatments, and after-sun products.
An asset for strengthening and repairing hair
Hair is mainly composed of keratin. This protein gives hair strength, flexibility, and shine. However, mechanical damage (brushing, styling), chemical damage (coloring, bleaching), and heat damage (hair dryers, straighteners) alter its structure.
Phytokeratin penetrates the hair fiber and fills in damaged areas, providing the amino acids needed to rebuild the cortex. It strengthens the cuticle, coats the hair shaft, and improves resistance to breakage.
The result: hair is more supple, softer to the touch, shinier, and easier to style. Regular use of phytokeratin-based hair care products also helps prevent split ends and restore balance to the scalp.
An effective solution for brittle nails
Subject to numerous stresses, nails can become brittle, soft, or ridged. Like hair, they are made up of overlapping layers of keratin. When this structure is altered, their growth becomes irregular and their strength decreases.
When applied locally, phytokeratin acts on the surface to strengthen the nail plate, improve the cohesion of the keratin layers, and promote healthier growth. Regular use can improve the density and hardness of the nail, while reducing splitting.
Phytokeratin-enriched treatments are particularly recommended after aggressive treatments such as semi-permanent nail polish application, or in cases of frequent manicures.
High tolerance and broad compatibility
Phytokeratin is an ingredient that is well tolerated by all skin types. It has no known irritating, sensitizing, or allergenic potential. It is therefore perfectly suited to sensitive skin, reactive scalps, and fragile areas.
It is used in concentrations generally ranging from 0.5% to 5% in cosmetic products, depending on the type of treatment and the target area.
Its stability in aqueous formulas and its safety make it a popular ingredient among natural cosmetics formulators.
