Dossier - Food supplements

Marine collagen is the fountain of youth real? ?

Four cures tested, dozens of studies consulted. Here's what the science says today about hydrolyzed collagen supplementation - and how to choose a supplement that delivers on its promise.

Dr Sylvain David Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Founder of BeautyDecoded
Marine collagen - BeautyDecoded selection

Lollagen supplementation has become the fountain of youth for millions of people concerned about their health and youthful skin. But is collagen supplementation really effective ? Here's a view based on available scientific studies, known biological mechanisms, and four personal cures tested over several months.

I

Four collagens tested - editorial selection.

Four marquess, each tested as a three-month course of treatment. Here are their characteristics to help you make an informed choice according to the scientific criteria detailed below.

1er

Nooance - 360° Beauty Concentrate

The most complete formula in this selection. In addition to the marine collagen peptides at the top of the INCI list (and therefore in high concentration), Nooance combines two patented active ingredients documented in randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials :

  • Ceramosides™ - oral phytoceramides, studied on skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkle depth.
  • Damasty® - complex combining Damask rose extract, melon SOD and natural acerola vitamin C, studied on 162 women for radiance, even skin tone and skin antioxidant defenses.

The formula is rounded off with’sodium hyaluronate, zinc bisglycinate, biotin, vitamins C, E, D3, K and B5 - cofactors involved in natural collagen synthesis and cell protection. Available in three flavors: cocoa, red fruit and vanilla.

2e

Nutriméa Collagen

Collagen composed of 90 % peptides under 3,000 Dalton, enriched with vitamin C, vitamin E and beta-carotene. Dosage: 3 capsules a day (morning, noon and evening) for 900 mg of collagen hydrolysate.

3e

Collagen Nutri & Co

Hydrolyzed collagen less than 2,000 Dalton in size, combined with vitamin C. Available in flavored sachets (e.g. peach) - 1 to 2 scoops a day for 3 to 6 grams of collagen.

4e

Collagen Vital Proteins

Pure marine collagen, without associated vitamins. Manufacturer's recommended dosage: 7 capsules a day for a total of 2.5 g of collagen.

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Editorial transparency. The link to Nooance is a partner link; the associated promo code is exclusive to BeautyDecoded readers. This allows us to finance our editorial work at no extra cost to you. The selection is not sponsored - it reflects the four marquess actually tested as a complete cure.
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Ethical clarification of figures. The clinical results reported for Ceramosides™ (Seppic studies) and Damasty® (Robertet Health & Beauty studies) relate to only ingredients tested in vivo, and not the finished Nooance product. They do not constitute health claims within the meaning of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006. Results may vary from one individual to another.
II

Native collagen - what it really is.

Collagen is a constituent protein of our body, present in connective tissue. It is one of the most abundant molecules in the human body: before the age of 25, it accounts for approximately 30 % of all our proteins.

It is found in bones, cartilage, tendons and, of course, in the dermis. Collagen is a protein composed of three associated alpha polypeptide chains. Each is made up of a sequence of 1,055 amino acids. The most common are :

  • proline
  • lysine
  • wisteria
  • hydroxylysine
  • hydroxyproline

Collagen's role in skin and joints

There are many types of collagen in the human body. The most widely studied for supplementation are type 1, present almost everywhere, and the type 2, collagen is found mainly in cartilage. In the skin, collagen maintains skin elasticity and firmness.

But from the age of 25 onwards, collagen production gradually declines, and from the age of 40, we lose around 1 % of collagen per year. The result: loss of elasticity, sagging skin and the appearance of wrinkles. The dermis becomes thinner and loses its ability to retain moisture. Added to this is the environment, which further degrades collagen: UV rays, pollution, smoking.

III

A collagen-rich diet - what really goes.

Facial care and a healthy lifestyle slow the breakdown of collagen, but our current diet is rather lacking in it - hence the craze for supplementation.

Collagen can be found in marrow bone, bone broth or fish skin. But even in large quantities, the collagen molecule is so large that it is difficult to pass through the digestive barrier.

It is much more relevant to turn to foods rich in lysine and proline, the amino acids that make up collagen.

Amino acid Status Rich foods
Proline Non-essential (synthesized by the body) Gelatin, cream cheese, parmesan, milk, beef, cabbage, spinach, asparagus
Lysine Essential (must be supplied by diet) Cod and fish, dairy products, legumes, soybeans, cereals, meat

If the diet is deficient, supplementation with hydrolyzed collagen may prove useful. The term «hydrolyzed» means that collagen has been broken down into small peptides made up of two or three amino acids - making it much easier to absorb from the intestine.

IV

Hydrolyzed collagen - manufacturing mechanism.

Hydrolyzed collagen-based supplements are obtained from the skin, bones, cartilage and ligaments of beef, pork and chicken - or from fish bones and scales for marine collagen.

These raw materials undergo several industrial stages: cleaning, degreasing, acid or basic treatments, extractions, purifications, concentrations and drying. At this stage, we obtain collagen gelatin - a reduced form of its triple helix, but still too large to be assimilated by the body.

The manufacturers then take a further step: they chemically slice up these amino acid sequences to make them smaller and more bioavailable. These are known as collagen hydrolysate, hydrolyzed collagen or collagen peptides. They are made up of two or three amino acids.

V

What they say scientific studies.

In 2021, a meta-analysis entitled Effects of hydrolyzed collagen supplementation on skin aging: a systematic review and meta-analysis. A meta-analysis is a study that compiles other previously published studies on the same subject to establish a consensus.

«Hydrolyzed collagen supplementation is more effective than placebo in improving skin hydration, elasticity and reducing wrinkles. Consumption of hydrolyzed collagen for 90 days is effective in reducing skin aging.»

Other data suggest that these hydrolysates also increase hyaluronic acid production. These results are particularly interesting, but with one important caveat.

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Potential conflict of interest. These studies are often funded by the laboratories that produce collagen supplements. An analysis of 4,500 scientific studies published in 2017 showed that industry-sponsored studies are more often favorable to the sponsor's products due to bias. This doesn't invalidate the results, but it does encourage you to read them with a critical eye.
VI

The benefits documented.

Several randomized studies on volunteers receiving hydrolyzed collagen supplementation show an improvement in the signs of skin aging.

Observed skin effects

  • Skin firmer
  • A improved elasticity
  • From shallower wrinkles
  • A better-moisturized skin
  • A increased skin density

Phanera: nails and hair

A study carried out on women aged 26 to 50 with brittle nails who ingested 2.5 g of hydrolyzed collagen per day for 12 weeks observed an improvement in their nail health. faster nail growth and stronger tissues in the majority of participants.

Collagen peptides are also touted for accelerating hair growth, even though hair is made up entirely of keratin. The hypothesis: the amino acids in hydrolysate also serve to build keratin and compensate for a deficient diet. Collagen is also found around the hair follicle, which could promote hair growth - but this hypothesis remains theoretical.

Joints and bones

Several studies conducted on athletes, postmenopausal women and young adults suffering from knee pain show that collagen supplementation provides :

  • From joint comfort and a preventive effect on osteoarthritis in the elderly
  • A better recovery in top-level athletes
  • A pain reduction linked to joint pathologies, notably osteoarthritis
  • A protection of bone mass, useful in preventing osteoporosis

Mechanism of action

One study analyzed the blood of several volunteers who had taken a collagen supplement and found that the’hydroxyproline - collagen's specific amino acid - passes into the bloodstream. This experiment demonstrates that hydrolyzed collagen is indeed bioactive in the body. These peptides then reach the dermal fibroblasts to stimulate the natural synthesis of native collagen. However, it is not possible to target a specific area: depending on the needs of the connective tissue, peptides can be used for skin, cartilage or ligaments.

VII

How to choose a supplement in six criteria.

According to several studies, skin benefits appear between 60 and 90 days - so it's best to take collagen as a three-month course of treatment. The firming and smoothing effects persist for around 30 days after discontinuation. Here are the six criteria that distinguish a serious supplement from a marketing product.

01

Effectively hydrolyzed collagen

To ensure its assimilation. This chemical breakdown must be gentle and free of heavy metals. Patented hydrolysis processes such as Naticol or Verisol guarantee this level of quality. A combination of amino acids containing glycine, lysine and hydroxyproline, more specific to native collagen.

02

A clearly identified origin

Check the origin of collagen (bovine or marine): there's no such thing as vegan collagen. Botanical equivalents incorporate amino acids from certain plants, but they do not constitute a collagen peptide. This is a purely marketing argument to meet vegan demand.

03

Low molecular weight

No matter what the source (bovine or marine), what counts is the molecular weight of hydrolyzed collagen. Scientific data recommend low molecular weights, between 2,000 and 6,000 Dalton. This information is essential: if it doesn't appear on the packaging, check the brand's website.

04

The right dosage

The beneficial effects reported by scientific studies have been observed with dosages ranging from 375 mg to 12 grams per day. Check the collagen content of your dietary supplement.

05

Synergy with cofactors

The best supplements combine collagen peptides with pure vitamin C, zinc and sulphur, which are involved in natural collagen synthesis and enhance the molecule's bioavailability.

06

Preferred powder or capsule format

Collagen peptides in powders or capsules enable a more controlled and optimal concentration of active ingredients. Gummies, for example, are limited in collagen concentration - often insufficient to reach documented effective thresholds.

VIII

Side effects and precautions.

Studies have revealed virtually no major adverse effects. However, some minor effects may occur, particularly in the digestive tract.

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Kidney failure. Collagen supplementation is Avoid in case of kidney problems, It can aggravate renal insufficiency. It is essential to seek medical advice before taking it.
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Pregnancy and breastfeeding. There is no research on the use of collagen peptides during pregnancy or breastfeeding. The precautionary principle applies: it should not be used during these periods.
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Allergies. If you're allergic to fish, beef, gluten or other foods, always check the complete list of ingredients in the formula.
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Minor side effects. A few episodes of diarrhea, heartburn or headaches have been reported. It remains unclear whether these are attributable to the collagen peptides themselves or to other ingredients in the formula. In the event of long-term use of medication, prior medical advice is recommended.
IX

My personal experience with collagen.

I did several 3-month cures with the four marquess presented at the beginning of this article. To be totally honest: I feel that my skin has appreciated this supplementation, and my hair is thicker.

From my point of view, this type of supplementation remains a more - but in no way replaces a balanced diet and regular physical activity. It's a complement, not a substitute.

On the comparative efficacy of the four marquess tested, it would be dishonest to claim that there is a dramatic subjective difference between them. - skin and hair cannot be measured to the nearest gram after a course of treatment. On the other hand, it's in the field of formula composition that the gaps are real, and it's these gaps that justify my ranking.

Nooance stands out from the other three for a structural reason It's the only formula in this selection to combine marine collagen peptides with two clinically studied patented active ingredients (Ceramosides™ and Damasty®) and a full range of cofactors - sodium hyaluronate, zinc, biotin, vitamins C, E, D3, K, B5. This synergy corresponds precisely to the fifth criterion detailed above: the best supplements combine peptides, vitamin C, zinc and sulfur to boost collagen bioavailability. It's also the formula I've found to be the most subjectively successful over the course of a treatment.

The other three marquess - Nutriméa, Nutri & Co and Vital Proteins - remain valid choices, each with its own technical specificities (molecular weight, dosage, dosage format). I leave it to you to make your own choice according to the technical criteria detailed above.

«The most important thing is to know whether you really need a dietary supplement. If you think your diet may be deficient, it may be worthwhile. But a supplement is there to complement, never to replace, a healthy lifestyle.»

Analyze your cosmetics on your skin profile.

Beyond supplementation, the choice of your anti-aging and moisturizing skincare products plays a decisive role. The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and issues - a natural complement to a comprehensive skincare approach.

Application available on iOS and Android

Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation. Any collagen supplementation should be discussed with a healthcare professional in the event of pre-existing pathology, long-term drug treatment, pregnancy or breast-feeding. The link to Nooance is a partner link.