ANUA: opinion and scientific analysis of the range

Heartleaf, azelaic acid, niacinamide - tops, flops and BeautyDecoded data

Article written by Dr Sylvain David - Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Updated: March 2026

 This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute a medical consultation. BeautyDecoded application allows you to choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to artificial intelligence.

ANUA products - BeautyDecoded overview

Please note: BeautyDecoded ANUA rating: 12 products in the database. Niacinamide 10%+TXA 4% and Heartleaf Toner have the highest volume of reviews (10 reviews each). The other products have 1-6 reviews - interpret with caution.

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata) - biochemistry and documented properties

Heartleaf is a medicinal plant that has been used for centuries in Asian medicine. ANUA incorporates it in high concentrations (70-77 %) in its flagship formulas. Its action involves several inflammatory mediators simultaneously - which distinguishes it from conventional soothing active ingredients (allantoin, bisabolol, panthenol) with a single mechanism.

«Heartleaf is a serious plant-based anti-inflammatory active - not just a plant flavor added for storytelling. I place it above centella in terms of direct anti-inflammatory activity, but below niacinamide in terms of independent clinical data.»

The NRDP question in topical terms - promise vs. reality

PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide) has a proven track record for medical injections. In topical application, the problem is fundamental: it is a macromolecule whose topical cutaneous penetration is limited by the stratum corneum barrier. The benefits of injectable PDRN do not automatically transfer to topical application.

Please note: in PDRN ANUA serum, what really hydrates is niacinamide 4% and hyaluronic acid - not necessarily PDRN itself.

ANUA reviews and analysis - product by product

Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner - TOP Soothing Reference

5/5 4.90/5 - 10 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~22 € / 250 ml | Range : Heartleaf

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 1.5)

Expert deciphering

77 % Heartleaf extract (Houttuynia cordata) in a light, aqueous formula. Sensitive skin score: +1.5 - excellent. Redness score: 76.5 - the highest in the ANUA catalog for a toner. BeautyDecoded score: 4.90/5 out of 10 reviews - the best score in the ANUA catalog. Universal profile: 84-91 for all skin types.

BeautyDecoded feedback unanimously confirms the soothing, anti-redness effect and light texture. Extended use on the body reported in one review (dry, tight skin) - versatility confirmed. Morning + evening use validated on sensitive combination skin. Texture described as «slightly slippery» for easy application.

Anti-aging score: 51.0 and imperfections: 49.3 - relevant beyond soothing. At €22 / 250 ml, exceptional value for money. Generous format for free use without saving product. Can be used as a soothing mist, after-cleansing toner or multi-coat essence.

Source : Cho WK et al. Anti-inflammatory effects of Houttuynia cordata. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012.

My analysis

«Heartleaf 77% Toner is the ANUA soothing reference - rated 4.90/5 out of 10 reviews, redness score 76.5, sensitive skin +1.5. Exceptional value for money (€22/250 ml). Body use possible (dry skin). Light, ultra-tolerant texture for all skin types, including rosacea and eczema».»

Verdict: TOP - Rated 4.90/5 out of 10 reviews. Redness score 76.5, sensitivity +1.5. 22 €/250 ml: best Q/P ratio in the catalog.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (10 reviews in total)

5/5 «Indispensable - immediate soothing action. I won't be able to do without it.»

5/5 «A real nugget! Soothes and moisturizes immediately. I even use it on my body when my skin feels tight.»

5/5 «Sensitive, combination skin - morning and evening after cleansing. Defeats all my other toners. Makes it easy to apply serums afterwards.»

5/5 «Removes redness, very light like water. Great for oily skin.»

5/5 «Hydrates my dry skin very well. I really like this toner.»

NIACINAMIDE 10% + TXA 4% Serum - TOP Anti-Blemishes

5/5 4.55/5 - 10 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~25 € / 30 ml | Range : Niacinamide

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0.65)

Please note: results at 8-16 weeks minimum. Consistency is essential. SPF 50+ in the morning is mandatory for any anti-spot treatment.

Expert deciphering

Niacinamide 10 % (inhibits melanosome transfer - the final stage in pigmentation) + tranexamic acid 4 % (inhibits keratinocyte-melanocyte interaction, blocks melanin-activating plasminogen - particularly documented in melasma). Redness score: 91.8 - exceptional. Spots score: 85.0 - high. Sensitive skin score: +0.65 - good.

BeautyDecoded score: 4.55/5 out of 10 reviews - the second-highest score in the ANUA catalog. Feedback reveals two profiles: enthusiastic (dark spots, melasma, imperfections) and mixed (slightly sticky texture for some, 10% niacinamide too high for hypersensitive skin). The signal that niacinamide is too concentrated is clinically relevant: for very sensitive skin, 5% is sufficient.

Universal profile (84-91 on all types). The association with copper peptides (reported in one review) is clinically relevant - anti-aging + anti-dark spot + barrier repair synergy. Reported «slightly thick» texture: recommended for use in the evening - clinically valid use for a corrective serum.

Source : Kim SJ et al. Tranexamic acid for treatment of melasma. Ann Dermatol. 2016.

My analysis

«Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% serum is the ANUA reference anti-spot/redness corrector - redness 91.8 and spots 85 exceptional, universal profile, score 4.55/5. Results in 8-16 weeks minimum. Hypersensitive skin: monitor tolerance to 10% niacinamide (slight transient redness possible). SPF 50+ in the morning mandatory.»

Verdict: TOP - Redness score 91.8 (exceptional) and spots 85. Score 4.55/5 out of 10 reviews. Must be patient (8-16 weeks). Monitor tolerance if hypersensitive skin.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (10 reviews in total)

5/5 «Excellent serum. Reactive skin, imperfections, melasma: perfect. I pair it with Nooance copper peptides.»

5/5 «Perfect for dark spots - effective without aggressing. I use it in the evening because of its slightly thick texture.»

5/5 «Moisturizes very well, pleasant texture. Well suited.»

4/5 «Mitigated: a little sticky. I prefer to use niacinamide and tranexamic acid separately. Still, I recommend it.»

3/5 «10% niacinamide too high for my sensitive skin. Tranexamic acid reduces redness but irritation with niacinamide at this concentration.»

Azelaic Acid 10% Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum - TOP

5/5 5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~28 € / 30 ml | Range : Azelaic Acid

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 1.75)

Expert deciphering

Azelaic acid 10 % + AH (Hyaluron) in a liquid formula. Redness score: 93.5 - the highest in the ANUA catalog, exceptional. Blemishes score: 88.4 - also among the highest. Sensitive skin score: +1.75 - excellent. Spots score: 76.5 - relevant. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin: 91 - optimal profile.

The liquid galenic is the main innovation - unlike the thick suspensions of Azelaic Acid Suspension The Ordinary (unsuitable for oily skin), this light texture is perfectly compatible with acne-prone or oily skin. The AA + Heartleaf association in the formula is coherent: two anti-inflammatories with different mechanisms acting in synergy.

BeautyDecoded's sole review (5/5) is insufficient for a statistical conclusion. The BeautyDecoded score (redness 93.5, imperfections 88.4) is the most convincing in the ANUA catalog on these criteria. This product was not clearly analyzed in the source article as equivalent to the «Azelaic Acid Serum» mentioned.

Source : Draelos ZD et al. Azelaic acid 15% gel in the treatment of rosacea. J Drugs Dermatol. 2006.

My analysis

«Azelaic Acid 10% Soothing Serum is the product with the highest BeautyDecoded scores in the ANUA catalog - redness 93.5 and imperfections 88.4, sensitive skin +1.75. The liquid galenic formulation sets this formula apart from the competition (The Ordinary, Typology) for oily skin. 1 insufficient review to conclude, but exceptional formula scores. »

Verdict: TOP - Redness 93.5 and imperfections 88.4 (ANUA top scores). Sensitive skin +1.75. Superior liquid galenic. 1 insufficient BeautyDecoded review.

BeautyDecoded review (1 review recorded) - comments not available in the database at the time of analysis.

Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil - Huile Démaquillante

4/5 3.75/5 - 6 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~22 € / 200 ml | Range : Heartleaf

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -0.5)

Expert deciphering

Heartleaf cleansing oil. Dry skin score: 84 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile for these skin types. Oily skin score: 0 - strictly contraindicated for this profile (formula too rich in lipids). Sensitive skin score: -0.5 - slight caution. BeautyDecoded score: 3.75/5 out of 6 reviews.

Feedback is polarized: enthusiastic users (impeccable make-up removal, waterproof mascara, no greasy film, no blurred vision) vs. mixed users (not repurchased). Ocular tingling signal mentioned in one review - watch out if applied too close to the eye. Fragrance-free mentioned positively.

Anti-aging score: 54.4 - relevant for a cleansing oil containing Heartleaf active ingredients. Oily skin score 0: to be formally excluded from this profile - a cleansing oil on oily, acne-prone skin is counter-productive.

My analysis

«Heartleaf cleansing oil is suitable for normal to dry skin (scores 84-91). Oily skin score 0: strictly contraindicated. Score 3.75/5 on 6 reviews with polarization. Eye tingling reported in one review - test before use in periorbital area. No fragrance: good tolerance signal.»

Verdict: - Optimal profile for normal to dry skin (84-91). Oily skin 0: contraindicated. Rating 3.75/5. Eye tingling reported.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (6 reviews in total)

5/5 «My favorite makeup remover oil - impeccable makeup removal waterproof mascara, no greasy film, doesn't blur the view.»

5/5 «Super makeup remover for 1 year. Good texture, doesn't sting the eyes, removes waterproof mascara.»

4/5 «Correct, gentle, no greasy film. I like the fact that it's fragrance-free.»

3/5 «Mitigated - I don't think I'll buy it back.»

Peach 70% Niacinamide Serum - Sérum Niacinamide

4/5 4.25/5 - 4 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~22 € / 30 ml | Range : Peach

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0.65)

Expert deciphering

70 % peach extract + niacinamide. Sensitive skin score: +0.65 - good. Redness score: 72.25 - relevant. Spots score: 62.05 - relevant. Universal profile (84-91 on all skin types). BeautyDecoded score: 4.25/5 out of 4 reviews - no reviews in the database for this product (no comments available).

The combination of peach extract (rich in natural vitamins C and E, antioxidants) + niacinamide is consistent: natural antioxidant + niacinamide (melanosome transfer inhibitor). Niacinamide concentration is not nominally indicated in the product title - contrast with Niacinamide 10% + TXA serum which displays its concentrations.

Anti-aging score: 43.35 - moderate but relevant. This product represents the «gentler» alternative to Niacinamide 10% + TXA for hypersensitive skin that cannot tolerate 10% niacinamide.

My analysis

«Peach 70% Niacinamide Serum is the mildest niacinamide option in the ANUA catalog - redness score 72.25 and spots 62.05, sensitive skin +0.65. Universal profile. Relevant alternative for hypersensitive skin that cannot tolerate 10% Niacinamide (likely lower concentration).»

Verdict: - Redness score 72.25 and spots 62.05. Universal profile. Milder alternative to Niacinamide 10% + TXA. BeautyDecoded reviews not available.

BeautyDecoded reviews (4 registered reviews) - comments not available in the database at the time of analysis.

BHA 2% Gentle Exfoliating Toner - TOP Exfoliant Doux

5/5 5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~20 € / 200 ml | Range : BHA

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -1)

Expert deciphering

BHA 2% (salicylic acid) in toner format. Blemish score: 85.0 - one of the highest in the ANUA catalog. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin score: 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score: -1.0 - slight caution consistent with BHA. Dry skin score: 80.5 - usable.

The toner format for a BHA 2% is a typical K-beauty galenic: application after cleansing, light texture allowing gradual absorption. The adjective «Gentle» in the name suggests a less aggressive pH or associated comfort actives to limit irritation - to be confirmed on the INCI. 1 BeautyDecoded review only - insufficient statistical basis.

Anti-aging score: 49.3 - relevant for a BHA exfoliant (cell renewal). Comparison with reference: BHA 2% Paula's Choice (imperfections score 85, documented calibrated pH). BHA 2% ANUA may be a K-beauty alternative to explore.

My analysis

«BHA 2% Gentle Exfoliating Toner has excellent BeautyDecoded scores (imperfections 85, oily skin 84-91) consistent with the BHA indication. Sensitive skin score -1.0: gradual introduction recommended. 1 single review - insufficient. 200 ml toner format: potentially excellent Q/P ratio.»

Verdict: TOP (scores) - Blemishes 85, oily skin 84-91. Consistent with BHA 2%. 1 insufficient opinion. Gradual introduction recommended.

BeautyDecoded review (1 review recorded) - comments not available in the database at the time of analysis.

Heartleaf LHA Moisture Peeling Gel - Physical-chemical exfoliator

4/5 4.00/5 - 2 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~20 € / 120 ml | Range : Heartleaf

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0.15)

Expert deciphering

LHA (lipohydroxamic acid - derived from salicylic acid) + Heartleaf exfoliating gel. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin score: 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score: +0.15 - almost optimal. Dry skin score: 67.9 - usable but less optimal.

BeautyDecoded score: 4/5 out of 2 reviews. Both reviews confirm an action on pores (less visible, cleaner from the first use) and tolerance without irritation. LHA is a milder derivative than classic BHA - slower penetration, superior tolerance. The exfoliating gel is a physico-chemical format (light mechanical action + chemical LHA).

Blemish score: 8.5 - modest, consistent with a maintenance rather than corrective exfoliant. This product is a discovery compared to the source article - the «BHAkin Essence» mentioned in the article corresponds to a different product.

My analysis

«Heartleaf LHA Moisture Peeling Gel is relevant for oily skin looking for daily or weekly gentle exfoliation (oily skin score 84, sensitivity +0.15). Action on pores confirmed in the 2 reviews. LHA gentler than classic BHA - introduce gradually even with this positive sensitivity score.»

Verdict: - Oily skin score 84, sensitivity +0.15. Pore action confirmed. Mild LHA. 2 reviews insufficient to conclude on long-term efficacy.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (2 reviews in total)

4/5 «Does not irritate the skin and cleanses thoroughly. Fine grains - pleasant.»

4/5 «Pores less visible and cleaner from first use. Thick but melting and foaming texture.»

Heartleaf 70% Daily Lotion - Lotion Quotidienne

5/5 5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~18 € / 200 ml | Range : Heartleaf

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0)

Expert deciphering

70 % Heartleaf extract in daily lotion. Perfect universal profile (84-91 for all skin types). Sensitive skin score: 0 - perfectly suited. Redness score: 46.75 - suitable for soothing base care. Only 1 BeautyDecoded review - insufficient base.

This lotion is the light cream version of Heartleaf toner - thicker than toner (77%) but less rich than cream. It fills the space between toner and cream in multi-layer K-beauty routines. Anti-aging score: 47.6 - relevant thanks to Heartleaf flavonoids.

The single review (5/5) confirms the «soothing» profile of this skincare product. Potentially excellent value for money (€18/200 ml) - to be confirmed with a higher volume of reviews.

My analysis

«Heartleaf 70% Daily Lotion has an excellent algorithmic profile - universal (84-91), sensitive skin 0, redness 46.75. Potentially very good Q/P ratio (€18/200 ml). 1 single review: impossible to conclude on perceived efficacy. To be explored for K-beauty multi-layer routines.»

Verdict: - Perfect universal profile. Sensitive skin 0. 18 €/200 ml: potentially excellent Q/P ratio. 1 insufficient review.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

5/5 «Very soothing moisturizing lotion. Perfect.»

Heartleaf 70% Intense Calming Cream - FLOP

2/5 1.50/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~25 € / 100 ml | Range : Heartleaf

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 0.75)

Expert deciphering

Heartleaf 70% «intense» cream. Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile for these skin types. Oily skin score: 49 - unsuitable. Sensitive skin score: +0.75 - good algorithmic signal. BeautyDecoded score: 1.50/5 based on 1 single review - the lowest in the ANUA catalog, on an insufficient statistical basis.

The only review (1.5/5) confirms the formulation problem identified in the article: too heavy a texture for sensitive combination skin, and not particularly soothing despite its positioning. This feedback corroborates the clinical analysis: the rich oily phase is poorly balanced with the actual soothing active ingredients present.

Redness score: 31.45 - modest for a cream positioned as «calming» in an anti-inflammatory range. Comparison with Soothing Cream ANUA (ID 21883129 Skin1004, non Anua): Heartleaf 80% Soothing Cream ANUA is lighter and better balanced for this profile.

My analysis

«Intense Calming Cream is the confirmed FLOP of the ANUA catalog - rating 1.50/5 (lowest), too heavy texture attested in the review, modest redness score (31.45) for a «calming» cream. Sensitive skin score +0.75 contradicts user experience, suggesting that algorithmic tolerance does not guarantee sensorial/profile adequacy. Avoid on combination to oily skin».»

Verdict: FLOP - Score 1.50/5 (the lowest in the catalog). Heavy texture confirmed. Redness score of 31.45 disappointing for «calming». Prefer Heartleaf 80% Soothing Cream.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

2/5 «Combination and sensitive skin: texture too heavy. Not particularly soothing. Not suitable for my skin type.»

Peach 77 Niacin Conditioning Milk - Lait Niacinamide

5/5 4.50/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~20 € / 200 ml | Range : Peach

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -0.35)

Expert deciphering

77 % peach extract + niacinamide in milk. Anti-ageing score: 79.9 - the highest in the ANUA catalog. Dry skin score: 84 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile. Oily skin score: 73.5 - suitable. Sensitive skin score: -0.35 - slight caution.

The only review (4.5/5) confirms the radiance, hydration and smooth texture for combination skin. «Possible to buy on Jejuskin or Stylevana» - Korean import availability reported, consistent with a recent K-beauty brand.

Anti-ageing score 79.9: surprising and remarkable for a milk - suggests significant anti-ageing active ingredients in the formula (probably niacinamide in high concentration + peach antioxidants). 1 single review - insufficient basis.

My analysis

«Peach 77 Niacin Conditioning Milk has the best anti-aging score in the ANUA catalog (79.9) - remarkable for a milk. Optimal profile for normal to dry skin. 1 insufficient review. To be explored for light anti-aging K-beauty routines.»

Verdict: - Anti-ageing 79.9 (best in the ANUA catalog). Optimal profile for normal to dry skin. 1 insufficient review.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

5/5 «Very good toner - combination skin: adds radiance, moisturizes well, smooth texture. Available on Jejuskin or Stylevana.»

ANUA routines by profile

Reactive skin / rosacea / redness

Morning: Heartleaf 77% Toner - NIACINAMIDE 10%+TXA 4% - SPF 50+ - SPF 50+ - SPF 50+ - SPF 50+ - SPF 50+ - SPF 50+ - SPF 50+ - SPF 50

Evening: Heartleaf 77% Toner - Azelaic Acid 10% Serum - Heartleaf 80% Soothing Cream

Acneic / oily / blemished skin

Morning: BHA 2% Gentle Toner (2-3×/sem) - Heartleaf 77% Toner - SPF 50+ - BHA 2% Gentle Toner (2-3×/sem)

Evening: BHA 2% Gentle Toner - NIACINAMIDE 10%+TXA 4% - Heartleaf 80% Soothing Cream

Anti-dark spot / radiance (melasma)

Morning: NIACINAMIDE 10%+TXA 4% - Peach 77 Niacin Conditioning Milk - SPF 50+ (mandatory)

Evening: Heartleaf 77% Toner - Azelaic Acid 10% Serum - NIACINAMIDE 10%+TXA 4%

Normal to dry skin / multi-layer K-beauty

Morning: Heartleaf 70% Daily Lotion - SPF 50+ - The perfect gift for the whole family

Evening: Heartleaf 77% Toner - Heartleaf 70% Daily Lotion - Peach 77 Niacin Milk

Frequently asked questions about ANUA

Is Heartleaf more effective than centella asiatica?

They have different, complementary mechanisms. Centella (madecassoside, asiaticosid) is more healing and barrier repairing. Heartleaf (quercetin, chlorogenic acid) is more directly anti-inflammatory via COX-2 and histamine mediators. For reactive, inflamed skin: Heartleaf more relevant. For skin in post-treatment healing phase: centella more relevant. Combined, they cover both aspects.

Is PDRN serum worth the price?

The price is partly justified by PDRN as a rare marketing ingredient. But the serum's real efficacy comes mainly from niacinamide 4% and HA - two active ingredients available at much lower prices in other marquess. Topical PDRN does not have the same evidence base as PDRN used in injectable mesotherapy.

Can ANUA Niacinamide+TXA serum replace La Roche-Posay Mela B3?

The main active ingredients are identical (niacinamide + tranexamic acid). Both are benchmarks for hyperpigmentation - with the same requirement for patience: 8 to 16 weeks minimum. Mela B3 LRP adds HEPES (a gentle exfoliant that enhances penetration). ANUA serum has similar BeautyDecoded scores (redness 91.8, spots 85). At the same price, both are relevant.

Are ANUA products compatible with pregnancy?

Heartleaf 77% toner and Soothing Cream are generally compatible. Azelaic acid serum 10% is generally tolerated (to be confirmed). Niacinamide is compatible. Topical tranexamic acid during pregnancy requires medical validation. Consult your doctor before making any routine changes.

What is the BeautyDecoded application?

BeautyDecoded uses artificial intelligence to help you choose the right cosmetics for your skin type. The application analyzes INCI formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. It is not a medical consultation, but rather a means of objectively selecting products according to a precise skin profile.

BeautyDecoded - The science of skin. Without marketing.

Information for educational purposes only. This information does not replace a medical consultation. Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon, Researcher and Youtuber.