Precleanse, Daily Microfoliant, Biolumin-C, UltraCalming
Article written by Dr Sylvain David - Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Updated: March 2026
Information : This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute a medical consultation. BeautyDecoded application allows you to choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to artificial intelligence.
Dermalogica was founded in 1986 in Los Angeles, California, by Jane Wurwand, a British beautician suffering from dermatitis and chronic eczema. Three years earlier, she had created the’International Dermal Institute (IDI) - America's first post-graduate training organization for estheticians. Noting the absence of products adapted to her own skin problems, she developed in just 10 months 27 formulas without the 5 main irritants of the time: lanolin, S.D. alcohol, mineral oil, artificial fragrances and artificial colorants.
The brand is acquired by Unilever in 2015 while maintaining its formulatory autonomy. Today, it is used by more than 100,000 professional therapists in over 100 countries. Jane Wurwand, named one of the «Forbes 50 over 50» in 2023 and «30 World Changing Women» by Conscious Media, launched in 2011 the FITE (Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship) in partnership with Kiva - more than 75,000 micro-loans granted to women entrepreneurs in 68 countries. All Dermalogica products are made in the USA, vegan, certified cruelty-free and gluten-free. The brand charter since 1986: « since 1986 »No artificial colorants, no artificial fragrances, no mineral oil, no lanolin, no S.D. alcohol, no parabens, no microplastics.
This is the most important formulatory signal in Dermalogica's BeautyDecoded catalog. The brand's historical charter excludes «Artificial fragrances» - but not natural perfumes or essential oils. This point is the source of the highly negative sensitive skin scores of several of the products referenced - notably Precleanse (-12.0) and Super Rich Repair (-12.75) - and is directly documented in BeautyDecoded reviews: «lemon scent too strong, red and watery eyes» (Precleanse) and «mop fragrance» (Intensive Moisture Balance).
| Dermalogica product | Sensitive score | Interpreting the score |
| UltraCalming Cleanser | +1,65 | Fragrance-free formula - the only 100% product to meet the «no irritants» promise» |
| Intensive Moisture Balance | -0,50 | Slight caution - discreet natural fragrance («mop» according to opinion) |
| Ultra Calming Serum | -2,75 | Slight caution - slightly irritating concentrated active ingredients |
| Biolumin-C Serum | -3,75 | Unsuitable - residual ascorbic acid + natural fragrance |
| Daily Microfoliant | -3,25 | Unsuitable - salicylic acid + enzymes |
| Multivitamin Power Firm Gel | -5,00 | Unsuitable - natural «red fruit» fragrance documented in the notice |
| Precleanse Oil Cleanser | -12,00 | Not suitable - citrus EO (limonene) - documented eye redness |
| Super Rich Repair | -12,75 | Not suitable - ultra-rich formula + concentrated natural fragrance |
For profiles with sensitive skin looking for a Dermalogica formula: the’UltraCalming Cleanser (+1.65) is the only product in the catalog referenced in BeautyDecoded that fully complies with the «no irritants» formulatory promise. The UltraCalming range is the only Dermalogica range specifically reformulated for hyper-reactive skin with no identifiable fragrance.
«Dermalogica is the only brand in the BeautyDecoded base whose history is directly linked to a skin pathology of its founder - Jane Wurwand's dermatitis and chronic eczema. This detail is not anecdotal: it explains the brand's deep clinical orientation and its focus on skin health over sensory pleasure. However, BeautyDecoded data reveal an important paradox: despite 40 years of «irritant-free» charter, «five out of eight products show very negative sensitive skin scores (-3 to -12.75) - linked to the natural fragrances present in the formulas. UltraCalming Cleanser (+1.65) is the only product totally consistent with the founding promise. The most clinically valuable signal: the opinion on Precleanse (»sensitive eyes, refrain - redness and watering«) directly validates the -12 score linked to citrus essential oils. And the review on Intensive Moisture Balance (»mop fragrance - but what a perfect cream!») is the most accurate humorous signal in the entire BeautyDecoded database - a user deducting a star for an olfactory flaw while acknowledging formulatory perfection."
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
| Product | Note BD | Notice (n) | Key signal |
| Daily Microfoliant | 5,00/5 | 1 | «The best, incomparable - worth its price, yet very sweet.» Imperfections 59.5 |
| UltraCalming Cleanser Gel-Cream 500ml | 5,00/5 | 1 | Redness 76.5 (best catalog) - sensitive skin +1.65 - «years of use».» |
| Multivitamin Power Firm Eye Gel | 5,00/5 | 1 | «Best eye contour - red fruit fragrance to die for.» Anti-aging 68 |
| Super Rich Repair 50g | 5,00/5 | 1 | «Ideal for dry and mature skin - plumped skin». Anti-ageing 61.2. Sensitive skin -12.75 |
| Ultra Calming Serum Concentrate | 5,00/5 | 1 | «So calmed if there's inflammation.» Almost universal 84-91. Sensitive skin -2.75 |
| Precleanse Oil Cleanser | 4,50/5 | 6 | Long-term customer loyalty - «avoid sensitive eyes» HE citrus. Sensitive skin -12 |
| Intensive Moisture Balance | 4,00/5 | 1 | «Mop fragrance - but what a perfect cream!» Anti-âge 75.65. Paradox |
| Biolumin-C Serum 59ml | 4,00/5 | 1 | Anti-ageing 76.5 - stains 76.5 - «oxidizes easily - refrigerate».» |
Dermalogica price signal: the brand is positioned in the premium dermo-cosmetic segment (€35-95). Opinions on Daily Microfoliant («it's worth the price») and Precleanse («expensive to buy, but all the products from this brand») confirm BeautyDecoded users' awareness of the brand's price positioning. The Q/P ratio is perceived as justified by loyal users, but requires a significant investment.
4.50/5 - 6 reviews BeautyDecoded | Price : ~35-45 € | Range : Precleanse
Main assets : Sunflower oil + Castor oil + Avocado oil + Natural citrus fragrance
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 0.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 35.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -12.0 |
| Anti-aging | 68.0 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 52.7 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -12)
Expert deciphering
Cleansing oil first step in double cleansing. Dry skin score: 84 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - excellent. Oily skin score: 0 - unsuitable (rich oily formula). Sensitive skin score: -12.0 - not suitable for sensitive skin, the most negative score in Dermalogica's BeautyDecoded catalog. Anti-aging score: 68. Spots score: 52.7. Score 4.5/5 out of 6 reviews - Dermalogica's best-documented product in BeautyDecoded.
Precleanse is Dermalogica's historic make-up remover - designed as the first step in the professional double cleansing protocol. Despite Dermalogica's «no artificial fragrance» charter, this product contains citrus essential oils (limonene, linalool) which generate a sensitive skin score of -12.0. This is the main formulatory point of vigilance: the lemon scent is strong and characteristic, as noted in the reviews. Anti-ageing score 68 and spots 52.7: high for a cleansing oil, consistent with rich plant oils.
The 7 BeautyDecoded reviews document a profile of very loyal users with a significant clinical nuance. Long-term loyalty signal: «this was my favorite oil before I turned to K-beauty - excellent on all levels!» Signal of universal tolerance: «suitable for my sensitive skin» and «gentle on the skin - a basic product that does the job well.» Signal of honesty about the sensorial experience: «no particular olfactory pleasure - a basic product that does the job well» and «very neutral - corresponds well to Dermalogica's positioning.» Documented contraindication signal: «sensitive eyes, refrain - lemon scent too strong, red and watery eyes near the eyes.» This last signal validates the -12 sensitive skin score associated with citrus EOs.
My analysis
«Precleanse Oil Cleanser is Dermalogica's most documented product in BeautyDecoded (6 reviews, 4.5/5). Strong loyalty signal with former user who has switched to K-beauty. But the clearest contraindication: «avoid sensitive eyes» - documented citrus EOs (limonene) generate redness and tearing near the eyes. Sensitive skin -12.0: unsuitable - a paradox for a brand positioned as «irritant-free». Oily skin 0: unsuitable.»
Verdict: Cult cleansing oil - 6 reviews 4.5/5. Dry skin 91. Stains 52.7. Long-term loyalty documented. «Avoid sensitive eyes - Citrus EO (limonene). Sensitive skin -12: not suitable. Oily skin 0.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (6 reviews in total)
4.5/5 «My oil for years - this was my darling oil before I turned to K-beauty, excellent on all levels!»
4.5/5 «Effective - without aggressing the skin. No particular olfactory pleasure. A basic product that does the job well.»
4.5/5 «Very reliable - a good cleanser in all circumstances. Very neutral but fits Dermalogica's positioning. Effective without aggressing the skin.»
4.5/5 «Super makeup remover - expensive to buy but all products from this brand. However super product. Cleanses perfectly. Suitable for my sensitive skin.»
4.5/5 «Sensitive eyes, abstain - I wanted to test this oil following the rave reviews. Unfortunately, it didn't work for me. Used to fragrance-free cosmetics, I found this one too strong (lemon scent). If I apply it near my eyes, they become red and watery.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~55-70 € | Range : Daily Microfoliant
Main assets : Papaya enzyme + Salicylic acid + Oat extract + Enzymatic rice powder
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 18.9 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 18.9 |
| Normal to oily skin | 84.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -3.3 |
| Anti-aging | 52.7 |
| Imperfections | 59.5 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 61.2 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -3.25)
Expert deciphering
Daily enzymatic powder exfoliator - the brand's iconic bestseller. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin score: 84 - excellent. Dry skin score: 18.9 - very unsuitable (daily exfoliator too aggressive for dry skin). Sensitive skin score: -3.25 - unsuitable. Blemishes score: 59.5 - high. Blemish score: 61.2 - high. Score 5/5 on 1 review.
Daily Microfoliant is Dermalogica's best-selling product worldwide. It comes in the form of water-activated rice powder, which releases papaya enzymes (papain) and salicylic acid. Papain is a proteolytic enzyme that dissolves the protein bonds of dead cells - gentle biochemical exfoliation. Salicylic acid is a fat-soluble BHA that penetrates pores. Spots 61.2 and imperfections 59.5: consistent with this dual enzymatic + BHA action. Dry skin score 18.9: a daily exfoliant is structurally unsuitable for dry skin because of the risk of over-exfoliation.
BeautyDecoded's sole review (5/5) is concise but remarkably clinically accurate: «the best, incomparable - worth the price, leaves skin flawless yet very gentle.» Premium Q/P validation signal despite high price (~€55-70). Documented mildness signal despite enzyme concentration - «yet very mild.» 1 insufficient review.
My analysis
«Daily Microfoliant is Dermalogica's worldwide bestseller - rated 5/5 on 1 review with Q/P validation («it's worth its price») and softness signal despite enzymes («yet very soft»). Blemishes 59.5 and spots 61.2: high. Oily skin 84: excellent. Dry skin 18.9: very unsuitable - daily exfoliation on dry skin contraindicated. Sensitive skin -3.25. 1 insufficient opinion.»
Verdict: Dermalogica worldwide bestseller - 5/5 (1 review). «Worth its price - incomparable - yet very gentle.» Blemishes 59.5. Blemishes 61.2. Oily skin 84. Dry skin 18.9: very unsuitable. Sensitive skin -3.25.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5.0/5 «The best, incomparable - it's worth its price, leaves skin flawless and yet it's very gentle.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price: ~48-60 € | Range: UltraCalming
Main assets : Patented soothing complex + Oats + Allantoin + water-free cleansing gel
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 91.0 |
| Oily skin | 0.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 21.0 |
| Sensitive skin | 1.6 |
| Anti-aging | 43.4 |
| Imperfections | 12.8 |
| Redness | 76.5 |
| Stains | 51.0 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin (score : 1.65)
Expert deciphering
Gel-cream cleanser from the UltraCalming range - large format 500 ml. Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - excellent. Oily skin score: 0 - unsuitable. Sensitive skin score: +1.65 - one of the highest sensitive skin scores in Dermalogica's BeautyDecoded catalog. Redness score: 76.5 - the best redness score in the catalog. Score 5/5 on 1 review.
UltraCalming Cleanser is a hybrid «waterless gel» formula - it removes make-up and cleanses without the need for water, to be used with dry hands and then rinsed off. This format is a clinical formulatory advantage: the absence of friction with water reduces mechanical aggression on reactive skin. Sensitive skin score +1.65: among the highest scores in the BeautyDecoded database for all catalogs combined - consistent with the UltraCalming range specifically formulated for hyper-reactive skin. Redness score 76.5: the best redness score in the Dermalogica catalog.
The single BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is particularly evocative and precise on texture: «I've used it for years and there are only samples left so I can't put a picture, but it's incredibly gentle, a kind of waterless gel that cleanses very gently, the skin stays moisturized - it's a hybrid product that I love!» Long-term loyalty signal («years») and very precise hybrid texture signal. Behavioral signal: user keeps remaining samples, strong product attachment signal. 1 insufficient review.
My analysis
«UltraCalming Cleanser is the benchmark for reactive skin in Dermalogica's BeautyDecoded catalog - redness 76.5 (best catalog), sensitive skin +1.65, rating 5/5 out of 1 review documenting loyalty over «years.»» Water-free gel format: clinical formulatory advantage for hyper-reactive skin. Behavioral signal: users keep their last samples. Large, economical 500 ml format. Oily skin 0: unsuitable. 1 insufficient review."
Verdict: Reactive skin reference. Redness 76.5 (best catalog). Sensitive skin +1.65. «Years of use - incredible softness - hybrid product.» Water-free gel. 500 ml economical. Oily skin 0: unsuitable.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5.0/5 «It's perfect - I've used it for years and there are only samples left so I can't put a photo, but it's incredibly gentle, a kind of waterless gel that cleanses very gently, the skin stays hydrated - it's a hybrid product that I love!»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
4.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~75-95 € | Range : Biolumin-C
Main assets : Stabilized vitamin C + Biolumin complex (L-ascorbate + stable derivatives) + AH
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -3.8 |
| Anti-aging | 76.5 |
| Imperfections | 51.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 76.5 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -3.75)
Expert deciphering
Stabilized vitamin C serum from the Biolumin-C range. Almost universal score: oily skin 91, normal to oily skin 91, dry skin 84, normal to dry skin 84. Sensitive skin score: -3.75 - not very suitable. Anti-aging score: 76.5 - high. Spots score: 76.5 - very high. Score 4/5 on 1 review.
Dermalogica's Biolumin-C range uses a stabilized form of vitamin C combined with L-ascorbate (pure ascorbic acid) and more stable derivatives. This multi-form architecture aims to combine the efficacy of pure vitamin C with the stability of the derivatives. Anti-ageing score 76.5 and spots 76.5: consistent with vitamin C architecture. Sensitive skin score -3.75: unsuitable - linked to residual acidity of ascorbic acid. Premium price (~75-95 €) justified by stabilization technology.
The only BeautyDecoded review (4/5) is expertly documented over a long period: «I've been using Dermalogica for a long time, and I really appreciate this vitamin C serum. Does not irritate the skin, refines skin texture. Caution: keep refrigerated as it oxidizes easily.» Signal of long expertise with the brand. Signal of tolerance: «does not irritate the skin» despite the sensitive skin score of -3.75. Important clinical signal: «oxidizes easily» - advice to keep refrigerated documented spontaneously. 1 insufficient opinion.
My analysis
«Biolumin-C Serum is Dermalogica's premium vitamin C serum in BeautyDecoded - anti-aging 76.5, spots 76.5, near universal (84-91). Rated 4/5 on 1 expert review documenting long-standing brand loyalty. Important note: «oxidizes easily - refrigerate». Sensitive skin -3.75: not very suitable, but opinion documents good tolerance. Premium price. 1 insufficient review.»
Verdict: Vit. C premium serum. Anti-ageing 76.5. Blemishes 76.5. Nearly universal (84-91). «Does not irritate. Must be kept refrigerated (easy oxidation). Sensitive skin -3.75. Rating 4/5 (1 expert opinion).
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
4.0/5 «Very good serum - I've been using Dermalogica for a long time and enjoyed this vitamin C serum. Does not irritate the skin, refines skin texture. Caution: keep refrigerated as it oxidizes easily.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price: ~70-90 € | Range: UltraCalming
Main assets : Patented UltraCalming complex + Oats + concentrated anti-inflammatory active ingredients
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 84.0 |
| Oily skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 91.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -2.8 |
| Anti-aging | 24.6 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 20.4 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -2.75)
Expert deciphering
Soothing serum concentrate from the UltraCalming range. Almost universal score: oily skin 84, dry skin 84, normal to dry skin 91, normal to oily skin 91. Sensitive skin score: -2.75 - slight caution. Anti-ageing score: 24.65 - moderate. Score 5/5 on 1 review.
Dermalogica's UltraCalming Complex is a patented blend of anti-inflammatory active ingredients, the details of which are not disclosed, but include soothing plant extracts (oatmeal, bisabolol, film-forming active ingredients). Quasi-universal score 84-91: the formula is designed to adapt to all skin profiles. Sensitive skin score -2.75: slight, moderate caution despite the «calming» positioning - linked to certain concentrated active ingredients. Anti-aging 24.65: moderate - this serum is not anti-aging, but anti-inflammatory.
The only BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is enthusiastic, with a clarification on the clinical indication: «a serum that leaves your skin silky, soft and soothed if there's inflammation! I haven't recommended one in a long time, but I'm going to give it some serious thought.» Signal of precise indication on inflammation. Signal of regret not to have renewed the purchase - «I'll give it serious thought.» 1 insufficient opinion.
My analysis
«Ultra Calming Serum Concentrate is the anti-inflammatory serum in the Dermalogica catalog in BeautyDecoded - near-universal 84-91, rating 5/5 out of 1 review documenting a «so calmed if there's inflammation» effect.» Sensitive skin -2.75: slight caution despite soothing positioning. Anti-ageing 24.65: moderate (not its role). Signal of regret for stopping purchase. 1 insufficient opinion."
Verdict: Anti-inflammatory serum - 5/5 (1 review). Nearly universal 84-91. «So calmed if there's inflammation - I'll give it serious thought.» Sensitive skin -2.75. Anti-aging 24.65 (not its role).
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5.0/5 «Perfect - a serum that leaves your skin silky smooth and so calmed if there is inflammation! I haven't recommended one in a while but will give it some serious thought.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~70-90 € | Range : Age Smart
Main assets : Intense repair complex + rich lipid actives + nourishing phyto-extracts
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 78.4 |
| Oily skin | 45.5 |
| Normal to dry skin | 91.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 66.5 |
| Sensitive skin | -12.8 |
| Anti-aging | 61.2 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 10.2 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -12.75)
Expert deciphering
Ultra-rich repair cream from the Age Smart range. Normal to dry skin score: 91 - excellent. Dry skin score: 78.4 - good. Oily skin score: 45.5 - moderate. Sensitive skin score: -12.75 - not suitable for sensitive skin, the most negative score of the entire Dermalogica catalog in BeautyDecoded. Anti-aging score: 61.2. Score 5/5 on 1 review.
Ultra-rich cream from the Age Smart range - positioned for dry, mature skin. Sensitive skin score -12.75: the most negative in the Dermalogica catalog - linked to the high concentration of lipidic active ingredients and/or natural fragrances. Anti-aging score 61.2: high for a repair cream. Dermalogica's Age Smart range is the brand's anti-aging range - designed for mature skin showing loss of elasticity and advanced dryness.
The only BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is enthusiastic and precise about the skin profile: «this is an ideal cream for dry and mature skin - your skin is very beautiful and plumped up like I love this Dermalogica range.» Signal of loyalty to the Age Smart range documented. Result signal: «plumped-up skin» - texture quality documented. 1 insufficient review.
My analysis
«Super Rich Repair is the premium repair cream in the Dermalogica catalog in BeautyDecoded - anti-aging 61.2, rating 5/5 out of 1 reviews documenting «plumped skin - ideal for dry and mature skin.» Dry skin 78.4. Sensitive skin -12.75: not suitable. Oily skin 45.5: not suitable. Reserved for dry and mature profiles without hyperreactivity. 1 insufficient review.»
Verdict: Dry/mature cream - 5/5 (1 review). Anti-aging 61.2. «Ideal for dry and mature skin - plumped-up skin». Dry skin 78.4. Sensitive skin -12.75: not suitable. Oily skin 45.5.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5.0/5 «Excellent cream - I haven't recommended one in a long time but this is an ideal cream for dry, mature skin. Your skin is very beautiful and plumped up as I love this Dermalogica range.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
4.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~55-70 € | Range : Skin Health
Main assets : Intensive moisturizing complex + film-forming active ingredients + repairing phyto-active ingredients
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 77.0 |
| Oily skin | 0.0 |
| Normal to dry skin | 84.0 |
| Normal to oily skin | 7.0 |
| Sensitive skin | -0.5 |
| Anti-aging | 75.7 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 17.0 |
| Stains | 42.5 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended (score: -0.5)
Expert deciphering
Intensive moisturizing cream. Dry skin score: 77 and normal to dry skin score: 84 - good. Oily skin score: 0 - unsuitable. Sensitive skin score: -0.5 - slight caution. Anti-aging score: 75.65 - high. Score 4/5 on 1 review.
Intensive moisturizing cream for dehydrated and mature skin. Anti-ageing score 75.65: high for a moisturizing cream - consistent with film-forming active ingredients and quality phyto-actives. Sensitive skin -0.5: slight caution - score close to neutral. Oily skin 0: unsuitable, formula too rich for oily profiles.
The only BeautyDecoded review (4/5) presents the most original editorial signal in the Dermalogica catalog: «I just took one star off for the mop-like fragrance of this cream that doesn't stay on, but what a perfect cream! Ideal for dehydrated and mature skin.» Signal deduction of one star for a precise and humorous olfactory flaw - «mop fragrance.» Rating 4/5 instead of 5/5 solely because of the scent, despite complete formulatory satisfaction - a signal of transparency and user honesty rare in the BeautyDecoded database. 1 insufficient review.
My analysis
«Intensive Moisture Balance is an editorial paradox in BeautyDecoded - anti-aging 75.65 (high), rated 4/5 instead of 5/5 only because of 'a mop fragrance that doesn't stay.» Formulatively perfect according to the review. Dry skin 77, normal to dry skin 84. Sensitive skin -0.5. Oily skin 0: unsuitable. Humorous signal rare in comic base. 1 insufficient review.»
Verdict: «Mop fragrance - but what a perfect cream!» - rated 4/5 instead of 5/5 for olfactory defect. Anti-ageing 75.65. Dry skin 77. Sensitive skin -0.5. Oily skin 0: unsuitable. Unique paradoxical signal.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
4.0/5 «Perfect - I just took one star off for the mop fragrance of this cream not staying on, but what a perfect cream! Ideal for dehydrated and mature skin.»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
5.00/5 - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~60-80 € | Range : MultiVitamin
Main assets : Multi-vitamin complex (A, C, E, B5) + periorbital firming active ingredients
BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores
| Profile / Issues | BD score |
| Dry skin | 13.3 |
| Oily skin | 32.9 |
| Normal to dry skin | 27.3 |
| Normal to oily skin | 46.9 |
| Sensitive skin | -5.0 |
| Anti-aging | 68.0 |
| Imperfections | 0.0 |
| Redness | 0.0 |
| Stains | 57.0 |
Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -5)
Expert deciphering
Eye contour firming gel from the MultiVitamin range. Very low hydration scores on all profiles: dry skin 13.3, oily skin 32.9, normal to dry skin 27.3, normal to oily skin 46.9. Sensitive skin score: -5.0 - unsuitable. Anti-aging score: 68 - high for an eye contour. Blemish score : 56.95 - noticeable. Score 5/5 on 1 review.
The very low hydration scores (13.3 to 46.9) are unusual for an eye contour product, and indicate a light, non-film-forming gel formula - consistent with the «gel» (not «cream») texture. The multi-vitamin A, C, E and B5 complex justifies the anti-aging score of 68. Sensitive skin score -5.0: unsuitable - linked to the concentration of active vitamins and/or fragrances. The most unusual signal: the notice mentions a «red fruit fragrance» - consistent with a scented product in the MultiVitamin range, which contrasts with Dermalogica's «no artificial fragrance» charter (natural fragrances are not excluded).
The only BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is enthusiastic and sensory: «the best eye contour - it's silky, light, moisturizes wonderfully and its red fruit fragrance is to die for!» Remarkably positive olfactory signal - the opposite of the Intensive Moisture Balance («mop») review. Texture signal «silky and light.» 1 insufficient review.
My analysis
«Multivitamin Power Firm Gel is the eye contour with the best sensory feedback in Dermalogica's catalog in BeautyDecoded - «the best eye contour - silky, light, red fruit fragrance to die for.» Anti-aging 68. Blemish score 56.95. But very low profile hydration scores (13-47): light formula unsuitable for very dry skin. Sensitive skin -5.0: unsuitable. 1 insufficient review.»
Verdict: «Best eye contour - silky, light, red fruit fragrance to die for.» Anti-aging 68. Blemishes 56.95. Low hydration scores (13-47): extreme dry skin unsuitable. Sensitive skin -5.0.
BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)
5.0/5 «The best eye contour - it's silky, light, moisturizes wonderfully and the berry fragrance is to die for!»
Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.
| Skin profile | Recommended product BeautyDecoded | Why? |
| Sensitive/reactive skin | UltraCalming Cleanser (+1.65) | The only BD product with a positive sensitive skin score - identifiable fragrance-free range |
| Dry skin with redness | UltraCalming Cleanser + Ultra Calming Serum | Redness 76.5 - dry skin 91 - soothing, fragrance-free formula |
| Oily skin / imperfections | Daily Microfoliant (blemishes 59.5) | Oily skin 84 - daily enzyme exfoliant BHA + papain enzyme |
| Mature / dry skin | Super Rich Repair (anti-aging 61.2) | Dry skin 78.4 - «plumped-up skin» - Age Smart range |
| Anti-dark spot / radiance | Biolumin-C Serum (76.5 spots) | Quasi universal - stabilized vitamin C - anti-aging 76.5 |
| Double cleansing make-up removal | Precleanse Oil Cleanser (dry skin 91) | Optimal make-up remover - caution citrus fragrance: avoid sensitive eyes. |
| Versatile anti-aging | Intensive Moisture Balance (anti-aging 75,65) | Dry skin 77 - «perfect for dehydrated/mature skin» - despite the smell |
| Brand | Country / Price | BD data | Positioning vs. Dermalogica |
| Dermalogica (USA/Unilever) | USA - €35-95 | 8 products, 13 reviews | Dermo-professional - 100,000 therapists - «clean since 1986» - IDI |
| La Roche-Posay (France/L'Oréal) | France - €12-45 | Many reviews | Same dermo segment - thermal spring water - Cicaplast - much cheaper |
| SkinCeuticals (USA/L'Oréal) | USA - €50-200 | Some products | Actifs concentrés premium - C E Ferulic - Retinol - more expensive |
| Clinique (USA/Estée Lauder) | USA - €30-90 | Some products | Dermo-cosmetics - historical fragrance-free - same price segment |
| Avène (France/Pierre Fabre) | France - €12-30 | Many reviews | Soothing thermal spring water - sensitive skin - less expensive - very well tolerated |
| Filorga (France) | France - €35-90 | Some products | Dermo-aesthetics - anti-aging - same price segment - medical aesthetics |
Dermalogica is positioned in a unique segment: American professional dermo-cosmetics without advertising or muse, distributed exclusively via IDI-trained institutes and therapists. This distribution channel is its main differentiating strength - products are recommended by trained professionals, not influencers. Vs La Roche-Posay: same dermo positioning but significantly lower prices and pharmacy distribution. Vs SkinCeuticals: more concentrated active ingredients at SkinCeuticals, but even higher prices. Dermalogica's most differentiating BeautyDecoded signal: UltraCalming Cleanser for sensitive skin +1.65 is one of the few dermo-cleansers in the BD base with a truly positive score - versus the negative scores of most competitors with fragrance.
Is Dermalogica a good brand?
Dermalogica is the most widely used professional dermo-cosmetic brand in the world - over 100,000 therapists trained in more than 100 countries, founded in 1986 by Jane Wurwand (a beautician suffering from eczema), acquired by Unilever in 2015 while maintaining its formulatory independence. In BeautyDecoded: 8 products listed, 13 reviews, average rating 4.75/5. Reviews document long-term loyalty (Precleanse «my oil for years,» UltraCalming «used for years»). Its «no advertising, no muse, no flashy packaging» positioning is consistent with a brand whose «investments are focused on formulations.»
Are Dermalogica products suitable for sensitive skin?
The answer is nuanced. The brand's charter since 1986 excludes artificial fragrances, S.D. alcohol, lanolin and mineral oils - which is excellent for sensitive skin. But natural fragrances (citrus essential oils on Precleanse, fruit scents on Multivitamin) generate very negative sensitive skin scores (-12 to -5) in BeautyDecoded. One review directly documents red, watery eyes with Precleanse (citrus EO). For hyper-reactive profiles: UltraCalming Cleanser (sensitive skin +1.65) and Ultra Calming Serum are the only really suitable formulas - the UltraCalming range is the only Dermalogica range with no identifiable fragrance.
Is Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant worth the price?
The only BeautyDecoded review (5/5) answers directly: «it's worth its price - the best, incomparable - leaves skin flawless yet very soft.» Score for imperfections 59.5 and blemishes 61.2 - high for an exfoliant. Daily Microfoliant is the brand's global bestseller - an enzymatic powder format (papain + salicylic acid) activated with water. Its dry-skin score of 18.9 is an important warning: a daily exfoliant is unsuitable for dry skin and can lead to over-exfoliation. It is formulated for oily to combination skin (84/84).
What's the difference between UltraCalming Cleanser and Precleanse?
In BeautyDecoded, the difference is radical when it comes to sensitive skin. UltraCalming Cleanser (sensitive skin +1.65) is Dermalogica's fragrance-free formula - waterless gel, frictionless emulsifying cleanser, specifically designed for hyper-reactive skin. The review describes it as «a waterless gel that cleanses very gently - the skin remains moisturized.» Precleanse (sensitive skin -12.0) is a make-up remover oil with citrus EO - a rich formula effective for double cleansing, but contraindicated for sensitive eyes (documented redness) and hyper-reactive skin.
How to store Biolumin-C Serum Dermalogica?
The only BeautyDecoded review (4/5) provides an essential piece of spontaneously documented clinical advice: «be careful, put it in the fridge as it oxidizes easily.» Vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid (and its derivatives) is sensitive to oxidation by light, heat and air. Refrigerated storage significantly slows down oxidation. Good tolerance signal despite sensitive skin score -3.75: documented user reports «does not irritate skin.» The review also notes a refining of skin texture - documented result.
What is the BeautyDecoded application?
BeautyDecoded uses artificial intelligence to help you choose the right cosmetics for your skin type. The application analyzes INCI formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. 8 Dermalogica products are referenced with 13 reviews. The most clinically valuable signal: reviews of Precleanse («red, watery eyes - lemon HE») and Intensive Moisture Balance («mop fragrance - but what a perfect cream!») illustrate how real BeautyDecoded reviews reveal nuances impossible to obtain without real data. It does not constitute a medical consultation.
BeautyDecoded - The science of skin. Without marketing.
Information for educational purposes only. This information does not replace a medical consultation. Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon, Researcher and Youtuber.