Brand reviews - BeautyDecoded analysis
The Inkey List.
Opinions The Inkey List - Doctor's analysis and BeautyDecoders' opinion.
British brand founded in 2018 by Colette Laxton (marketer) and Mark Curry (scientist). The name is a play on words: «Inkey» is the English pronunciation of ’INCI« - the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Philosophy «NO BS, just better skin» To make skin science accessible, without jargon, without lies. Full range between 7 and 26.50 $ in the United States. Certified B Corp (independently verified social and environmental commitment). 6 consecutive Allure Best of Beauty Awards, 87 million products sold worldwide. Eleven products analyzed with 16 BeautyDecoded user returns.
11
Products analyzed
16
User reviews
+0,5
Sensitive skin max (Mini Oat Cleansing Balm)
90,1
Anti-âge max (Vitamin C Serum)
Further information
Review a The Inkey List product on your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Formulatory identity
«Inkey + Key = the key INCI accessible.
The Inkey List occupies a unique position in the accessible assets market. Its difference from The Ordinary These include slightly more complete formulas (less strictly mono-active), more pleasant textures and educational packaging that explains the purpose of each product. Its difference from NIOD 3 to 5 times lower prices for less complex active ingredients. The brand is positioned as the best entry point for building an active ingredients routine without breaking the bank. In July 2025, launch in 1,450+ Ulta Beauty stores in the United States - a signal of international growth.
01
An educational brand first and foremost
Visit educational packaging is the differentiating element: each product explains its active ingredient, its mechanism of action, and how to use it in a routine. It is this editorial orientation that distinguishes The Inkey List from The Ordinary (pure actives without guidance). This approach is particularly suited to beginners in patching assets building their first routine.
02
The PHA Toner - the nugget in the catalog
PHA Toner is the formulatory discovery of the catalog in BeautyDecoded: an almost universal profile 84-91 on all skin types, sensitive skin -0,75 (remarkable for an exfoliant - classic AHAs are generally -4 to -8), triple action: anti-aging, blemishes, spots between 68 and 76.5. At €12/100 ml: the best formulation-value ratio in the entire catalog.
Editorial reading
«The Inkey List is the most educational entry point for profiles who want to start integrating corrective assets into their routine without undue financial risk. Three objective forces of the 11 products analyzed: PHA Toner (universal profile 84-91, sensitive skin -0.75, triple action 68-76.5 - best exfoliant in the catalog), Caffeine Eye Cream (5/5 rating over 1.5 years of use - reliability over a rare period of use), and 20 % Niacinamide Serum (anti-aging 85 - best score in the catalog, one of the highest concentrations on the consumer market). Three points to watch out for Most products have only 1 BeautyDecoded review - limited statistical basis, conclusions are provisional. Tranexamic Acid 2 % is directly compared unfavorably to TXA 4 % HaruHaru Wonder by two users - cross-marques signal consistent with literature suggesting 3-5 % for documented depigmenting efficacy. Brighten-I Eye Cream disappoints on dark circles - spot score 0 consistent with the absence of depigmenting active ingredient.»
Formulatory deciphering
Five principles structuring the brand.
What sets The Inkey List apart from the accessible active-centric segment: an educational orientation formalized in five principles - from «NO BS skincare» to B Corp certification. Direct comparison with The Ordinary, the closest adjacent brand.
| Principle | What it means | Difference vs The Ordinary |
|---|---|---|
| NO BS skincare | Effective formulas, no misleading marketing | Same active ingredients, more pleasant textures and more educational packaging |
| Transparent ingredients | Each product explains what it does and why it works | The Ordinary list too, but with less educational support |
| Accessible prices < 27 $ | Full range from 7 to 26.50 $ (Ulta Beauty) | Similar prices, The Ordinary sometimes slightly cheaper |
| Slightly more complete formulas | A few assets to complement the main one | The Ordinary: often 1 pure active ingredient. Inkey: 1 active ingredient + formulation support |
| B Corp certification | Verified social and environmental impact | The Ordinary / DECIEM: different commitments, not B Corp certified |
Overview
The 11 products analyzed, at a glance.
Retinol Serum (4 reviews) and Tranexamic Acid (3 reviews) have the strongest statistical basis. The other 9 products have 1 review each - reliable algorithmic analysis, perceived efficacy less documented by users.
| Product | Note | Opinions | Key score |
|---|---|---|---|
| PHA Toner | 5,00/5 | 1 | Universal profile - sensitive skin -0.75 - triple action |
| Caffeine Eye Cream | 5,00/5 | 1 | Anti-puffiness confirmed 1.5 years - sensitive skin 0 |
| Q10 Serum | 4,50/5 | 1 | Universal profile - preventive antioxidant |
| Tranexamic Acid Serum | 3,50/5 | 3 | Dosage 2 % contested vs HaruHaru 4 % |
| Mini Oat Cleansing Balm | 3,50/5 | 1 | Sensitive skin +0.5 - redness 76.5 (better) |
| Polyglutamic Acid | 3,50/5 | 1 | Universal profile - ferment odor reported |
| Retinol Serum | 3,13/5 | 4 | Anti-ageing 76.5 - strong odour reported |
| 20 % Niacinamide Serum | 3,00/5 | 1 | Anti-âge 85 (best catalog) |
| Vitamin C Serum | 3,00/5 | 1 | Anti-ageing 90.1 and blemishes 90.1 - tube in 3 weeks. |
| 15 % Vitamin C + EGF | 2,00/5 | 1 | Spots 76.5 - problematic texture (abandonment) |
| Brighten-I Eye Cream | 2,00/5 | 1 | Spots 0 - failure on brown circles |
Methodological note. Review volumes are limited: a total of 16 reviews on 11 products. Retinol (4 reviews) and Tranexamic Acid (3 reviews) are the strongest statistical bases. Algorithmic scores (INCI analysis of 80 skin profiles) remain reliable, but conclusions on perceived efficacy will remain provisional until the volume of reviews increases.
Family 01
PHA Toner - the revelation for fussy skin
Near-universal profile 84-91 on all skin types, sensitive skin -0.75 (remarkable for an exfoliant), triple corrective action 68-76.5. At €12 / 100 ml: the best formulation value in the catalog.
Toner exfoliant polyhydroxy acids (PHA)
Universal profile + triple action - best value for money
PHA Toner
Polyhydroxy acids (PHA - gluconolactone and lactobionic acid typically) + soothing base. Near-universal profile 84-91 on all skin types. Sensitive skin score -0.75 - remarkable slight caution for an exfoliant (vs. -4 to -8 for conventional AHA toners). Triple corrective action anti-aging 68 / blemishes 76.5 / spots 76.5.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
87,5
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
87,5
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
-0,75
Anti-ageing / Imperfections / Spots
68 / 76,5 / 76,5
⚠ Sensitivity verdict
Slight caution (score: -0.75) - remarkable for an exfoliant. Patience required for initiation.
Why PHAs are so well tolerated. PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are the exfoliating generation after classic AHAs. They have a larger molecule, which penetrate less deeply into the epidermis - significantly reducing their irritant potential while retaining a real exfoliating effect. This is why the PHA Toner's sensitive skin score (-0.75) is so much higher than that of a standard AHA toner (-4 to -8). A relevant option for profiles that cannot tolerate direct AHAs.
«PHA Toner is the formulatory discovery of The Inkey List range in BeautyDecoded - almost universal profile (84-91), sensitive skin -0.75 (excellent for an exfoliant), triple corrective action at 68-76.5. BeautyDecoded's single opinion is remarkably clinically precise: confirmed real efficacy with the necessary patience, gradual introduction, and combination with soothing products. These three features are exactly what you'd expect from a well-formulated PHA. At €12 / 100 ml: best value for money in the catalog. 1 opinion: insufficient basis for overall conclusion.»
User feedback
«Great for fussy skin that reacts at the drop of a hat. It's effective but you need patience. At first it feels like you're putting on water - you have to take it easy and use soothing products with it so as not to overload the skin.»
Verdict - TOP quality/price ratio in the catalog. Universal profile 84-91. Sensitive skin -0.75 (best exfoliator in the catalog). Triple action 68-76.5. Rating 5/5 (1 review). Patience required.
Family 02
Retinol & 20 % Niacinamide - corrective anti-aging active ingredients
Retinol Serum (4 reviews - strongest statistical base) is the flagship corrective. 20 % Niacinamide offers the highest concentration on the consumer market, with the best anti-aging score in the catalog (85).
Retinol serum initiation
Anti-ageing 76.5 - strong odour reported
Retinol Serum
Retinol concentration initiation + emollient base. Double corrective action Anti-ageing 76.5 / Blemishes 76.5. Blemish score 71.4 - relevant. Profile for non-oily skin (dry 84, normal to dry 91). Sensitive skin score -2.7 - unsuitable, consistent with an irritating active ingredient. Oily skin score 38.5 - unsuitable.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
38,5
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
84
Sensitive skin
-2,7
Anti-ageing / Imperfections / Spots
76,5 / 76,5 / 71,4
⛔ Sensitivity verdict
Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -2.7). Introduction must be gradual. SPF 50+ in the morning essential.
Retinol precautions. Usage exclusive nocturne. SPF 50+ mandatory in the morning. Contraindicated during pregnancy and breast-feeding. Introduction: 1-2 evenings/week for 4 weeks, then gradually increase. The «visually accentuates wrinkles» effect reported in one review is a known transient effect of retinol (purging), not a formula flaw.
«Retinol is the best-documented anti-aging active in cosmetology (Kafi 2007): it stimulates collagen synthesis and accelerates cell renewal via nuclear receptors RAR/RXR. At €13 / 30 ml, The Inkey List democratizes this active ingredient with an initiation concentration - suitable for retinol beginners. The 4 BeautyDecoded reviews are instructive and nuanced: one review confirms a visible reduction in pores but also a strong odor and redness, two reviews mention the unpleasant odor, one review stresses that it smoothes the skin with a gradual introduction. One review points out that there are better alternatives in the same price range.»
Source: Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007.
User feedback (4 reviews)
«Leaves a soft feeling on the skin. Has obviously helped reduce the size of my pores. But strong unpleasant smell, redness and visually «accentuates» my wrinkles - I'm stopping.»
«Super retinol - apply 1-2 times a week and gradually increase. Smoothes skin.»
«Good for the price but really unpleasant smell. Rather sticky after application. For the same price range, there's better.»
«Disappointing - no noticeable effect. I'm turning to Garancia's Crème la Foudroyante.»
Verdict - Accessible corrective. Anti-ageing 76.5, imperfections 76.5. Rated 3.13/5 out of 4 reviews. Sensitive skin -2.7: gradual introduction mandatory. Strong odor reported by 3/4 users.
Serum niacinamide high concentration 20 %
Anti-ageing 85 - best score in the catalog
20 % Niacinamide Serum
Niacinamide 20 % - the highest concentration in The Inkey List catalog. Anti-aging score 85 - the best of all the catalogs analyzed. Imperfections score 51. Oily skin score 84, normal to oily skin 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score -0.5 - slight caution to 20 % (the literature suggests that concentrations above 10 % may cause redness and tingling on certain profiles).
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
65,8
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
65,8
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
-0,5
Anti-aging / Blemishes
85 / 51
⚠ Sensitivity verdict
Slight caution (score: -0.5) at 20 % niacinamide. Concentration above standard clinical threshold (10 %).
«Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a documented multi-target active ingredient: reinforcement of the skin barrier by stimulation of endogenous ceramides (Draelos 2005), sebum regulation, inhibition of melanosome transfer (blemishes), anti-inflammatory effect. At 20 %, The Inkey List offers one of the highest concentrations on the consumer market - above the clinical threshold of 10 % generally used in the literature. The only BeautyDecoded review (3/5) is honest: no visible effect on pores after 2.5 months» use. This signal deserves analysis: niacinamide at 20 % may paradoxically be less effective on certain profiles if the concentration generates a slight sub-clinical irritation slowing down absorption - or if expectations are oriented towards pores (less documented action) rather than barrier and radiance (main actions). At €12: very competitive vs. The Ordinary Niacinamide 10 %."
Source: Draelos ZD et al. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005.
User feedback
«No results - no visible effect on pores yet after 2 and a half months of use.»
Verdict - Best anti-aging catalog score (85). Score 3/5 on 1 review (insufficient). Blemishes 51. Oily skin 91. Concentration 20 %: caution. Very competitive vs. The Ordinary 10 %.
Family 03
Caffeine Eye Cream & Brighten-I - two outlines for two issues
Score 5/5 on 1.5 years' use for Caffeine Eye Cream - a reliability rarely seen in the catalog. Brighten-I Eye Cream, on the other hand, is disappointing on dark circles, in line with its spot score of 0 (absence of depigmenting active ingredient).
Anti-puffiness caffeine eye contour
Anti-pocket confirmed - 1.5 years of use
Caffeine Eye Cream
Vasoconstrictor caffeine + emollient base. Dry skin score 91, normal to dry skin 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score 0 - perfectly suited to the reactive periorbital area. Anti-aging score 25.5 - moderate, This is consistent with a formula focused on reducing puffiness rather than correcting deep wrinkles.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
91
Oily skin
66,5
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
77
Sensitive skin
0
Anti-aging
25,5
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0). Perfect for the reactive periorbital area.
Two types of dark circles - two protocols. There are two main types of dark circles: blue/violet circles (vascular origin - caffeine is effective) and dark circles (pigmentary origin - depigmenting active ingredients required: vitamin C, retinoid, kojic acid, arbutin, tranexamic acid). Caffeine Eye Cream successfully targets vascular dark circles - do not expect any effect on brown pigmented circles.
«Caffeine exerts a vasoconstrictive action on the micro-capillaries of the periorbital area, reducing the vascular stasis responsible for the puffy, pockmarked appearance. It's one of the best-validated active ingredients for morning puffiness - its action is rapid (after just a few weeks of regular application) but reversible on discontinuation. It's a targeted response to a specific problem, not a global anti-aging correction. The only BeautyDecoded opinion is clinically reliable: used as an undercoat for another eye contour product for 1.5 years, no more puffiness on waking, correct hydration. Use as an undercoat is an advanced practice. The length of use (1.5 years) lends strong credibility to this unique opinion.»
User feedback (1.5 years of use)
«Fabulous anti-puffiness - I've been using it for a year and a half every night before my other eye contour. I no longer wake up with puffy eyes and it moisturizes properly.»
Verdict - TOP anti-puffiness. 5/5 rating based on 1.5 years' use - rare reliability. Sensitive skin 0. Dry skin 91. Anti-puffiness confirmed. Anti-ageing 25.5: comfort care, not wrinkle corrector.
Radiance eye contour (without depigmenting active ingredients)
Dark circles failure - spot score 0
Brighten-I Eye Cream
Emollient base - no documented depigmenting agents identified. Dry skin score 91, normal to dry skin 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score -0.5 - slight caution. Score stains 0 - no depigmenting active identified. Anti-aging score 11.9 - low.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
91
Oily skin
56
Normal to dry skin
91
Sensitive skin
-0,5
Stains
0
Anti-aging
11,9
«The only BeautyDecoded review (2/5) is clinically instructive: no brightening improvement on very dark circles. This signal is consistent with the 0 spots score - the formula contains no documented depigmenting active ingredients in useful concentrations. Dark circles (periorbital hyperpigmentation) require specific active ingredients: vitamin C, retinoid, kojic acid, arbutin or tranexamic acid. This Brighten-I Eye Cream seems to target brown pigmented circles, but without any depigmenting active ingredients identified in the scores - a formulatory inconsistency that explains our disappointment. For dark circles: prefer a vitamin C or tranexamic acid serum. For vascular dark circles: Caffeine Eye Cream from the same brand.»
User feedback
«Useless - no brightening improvement on my very dark circles.»
Verdict - Disappointing on dark circles. Rated 2/5. Spots 0 - absence of depigmenting active ingredient. Anti-aging 11.9. For vascular dark circles: prefer Caffeine Eye Cream.
Family 04
Vitamin C & Tranexamic Acid - depigmentation
Vitamin C Serum has the best formulatory scores in the catalog (anti-aging 90.1 and spots 90.1), but a problematic format (tube emptied in 3 weeks). Tranexamic Acid 2 % is directly compared unfavorably with TXA 4 % HaruHaru Wonder by two users - strong cross-marques signal.
Vitamin C serum (probable ascorbic acid)
Anti-ageing 90.1 and blemishes 90.1 - tube emptied in 3 weeks.
Vitamin C Serum
Concentrated vitamin C (pure ascorbic acid or probable derivative). Anti-aging score 90,1 and stains 90.1 - co-best catalog scores, on a par with Niacinamide 20 % for anti-aging. Oily skin score 84 - adapted. Dry skin score 28 - unsuitable. Sensitive skin score -3.0 - not suitable for sensitive skin.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
28
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
49
Normal to oily skin
84
Sensitive skin
-3,0
Anti-ageing / Spots
90,1 / 90,1
⛔ Sensitivity verdict
Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -3.0). Formula probably with pure ascorbic acid - consistent with scores.
«Formulative vs. perception paradox: excellent algorithmic scores (anti-aging 90.1, blemishes 90.1) but a user rating of 3/5. The explanation for the review is practical, not formulatory: tube emptied in 3 weeks of daily application - format problem, not effectiveness. The quantity/price ratio (€11 for 3 weeks) is perceived as unfavorable compared to alternatives such as The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension. Dry skin score 28 and sensitive skin -3.0: the formula probably contains pure ascorbic acid or a slightly irritating derivative - consistent with the scores. At €11 for a 3-week duration of use with daily application, the effective monthly cost (~€14) is less competitive than it first appears.»
User feedback
«Good but empties quickly - compared to other marquess, the tube barely makes 3 weeks for daily application.»
Verdict - Excellent scores, problematic format. Anti-ageing 90.1 and spots 90.1 (co-best catalog). Score 3/5: tube emptied in 3 weeks. Sensitive skin -3.0: unsuitable.
Serum tranexamic acid 2 %
Dosage 2 % contested vs HaruHaru 4 %
Tranexamic Acid Serum
Tranexamic acid 2 %. Near-universal profile : 80-91. Score redness 49,3 and stains 49.3 - relevant. Sensitive skin score -0.5 - slight caution, remarkably low for a corrective active ingredient. Anti-aging score 25.5 - moderate.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
80,5
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
80,5
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
-0,5
Redness / Spots
49,3 / 49,3
⚠ Sensitivity verdict
Slight caution (score: -0.5). Remarkable tolerance for a corrective depigmenting agent.
Signal cross-marques BeautyDecoded - dosage 2 % vs 4 %. Two out of three BeautyDecoded users compare Inkey List's TXA 2 % directly and unfavorably with the TXA 4 % by HaruHaru Wonder. The literature on tranexamic acid in cosmetics suggests concentrations of 3 to 5 % for a documented depigmenting effect - at 2 %, efficacy may be suboptimal for established spots. This cross-marques signal is consistent with the literature and provides concrete comparative data from the BeautyDecoded database.
«The 3 BeautyDecoded reviews converge on the same point of vigilance: the 2 % dosage is deemed insufficient by two experienced users, who compare it with HaruHaru Wonder at 4 %. One review mentions combined morning/evening use with azelaic acid - a relevant combination, as the two active ingredients have different mechanisms of action on melanogenesis. Tolerance appears to be good (sensitive skin -0.5), making it a first-tier active for sensitive profiles seeking gentle depigmentation. A relevant option as a first step or in combination with other depigmenting actives, to be reconsidered for established blemishes.»
User feedback (3 reviews)
«Mitigated - dosed at 2 %, I wonder if it's really effective in reducing redness. I use the HaruHaru Wonder one at 4 % and see a difference.»
«I also use HaruHaru, which I find soothing. In the morning I use azelaic acid and in the evening tranexamic.»
Verdict - Dosage 2 % contested by 2/3 users vs HaruHaru 4 %. Redness 49.3, blotchiness 49.3. Sensitive skin -0.5 (good tolerance). First stage or in combination.
Family 05
Q10 Serum, Oat Cleansing Balm &. Polyglutamic Acid - universal profiles
Three products with high algorithmic scores and universal profiles. Mini Oat Cleansing Balm is the only product in the catalog with a positive sensitive skin score (+0.5) - the benchmark for the most reactive skin types.
Coenzyme Q10 Antioxidant Serum
Universal antioxidant - sensitive skin 0
Q10 Serum
Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone) + texture active ingredients. Exceptional quasi-universal profile 84-91 on all skin types. Sensitive skin score 0 - perfectly suited. Anti-aging score 25.5 - moderate, consistent with a preventive (not corrective) antioxidant.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
86,8
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
0
Anti-aging
25,5
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0). Exceptional universal profile.
«Coenzyme Q10 is a fat-soluble antioxidant naturally present in skin mitochondria, whose concentration decreases with age. Its action is essentially preventive: neutralizing free radicals generated by UV rays, pollution and oxidative stress. Moderate anti-ageing score 25.5: this score honestly reflects a background protective active ingredient, not an active corrective like retinol or vitamin C. The immediate smoothing effect reported in the review is probably linked to the formula's texturizing active ingredients in addition to Q10. The universal profile (84-91) and sensitive skin 0 make this serum an affordable option for all profiles looking for a preventive daily antioxidant. To be used in synergy with an SPF for complete antioxidant protection.»
User feedback
«Not bad - moisturizing serum, smoothed skin.»
Verdict - Universal antioxidant. Profile 84-91. Sensitive skin 0. Rating 4.5/5. Anti-aging 25.5: preventive, not corrective. Ideal in combination with SPF.
Colloidal oatmeal cleansing balm
Sensitive skin +0.5 - only positive catalog score
Mini Oat Cleansing Balm
Colloidal oats (Avena sativa) + biphasic base. Sensitive skin score +0.5 - well adapted, the only product in the catalog with a positive score. Redness score 76.5 - excellent, consistent with oats' soothing properties. Dry skin score 84, normal to dry skin 91. Oily skin score 0 - unsuitable for oily skin.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
0
Normal to dry skin
91
Sensitive skin
+0,5
Redness
76,5
Anti-aging
44,2
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +0.5). Only product in the catalog with a positive score. Redness 76.5 - best in catalog.
Two practical signals to anticipate. The user review raises two points: presence of grains making the product unsuitable for eyes, and tendency to go out of phase. Dephasing is characteristic of biphasic formulations without sufficient emulsifier - a formulation point to watch out for. Despite this, tolerance and mildness are confirmed.
«Colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) is a soothing active ingredient with well-documented efficacy on sensitive and atopic skin. Oats» beta-glucans strengthen the skin barrier and reduce inflammation. Redness score 76.5: the highest of all The Inkey List products analyzed - remarkable for a cleanser. Sensitive skin score +0.5: the only positive score in the catalog, confirming the gentleness of the formulation. The most suitable product for sensitive and dry skin in The Inkey List. Oily skin score 0: unsuitable for oily skin".»
User feedback
«Good product but - cleans well and leaves skin soft. I don't use it for the eyes because of the grains. Also, the product tends to go out of phase. Not my favorite.»
Verdict - Best catalog sensitivity score (+0.5) and redness score (76.5). Dry skin 84. Score 3.5/5. Grains (not recommended for eyes) and phase shift reported. Oily skin 0: unsuitable.
Humectant polyglutamic acid serum
Universal profile - ferment odor reported
Polyglutamic Acid
Polyglutamic acid (PGA) - fermented polypeptide Bacillus subtilis. Normal to dry skin score 91 and normal to oily skin 91 - almost universal profile. Sensitive skin score 0 - suitable. Anti-aging score 12.75 - low, a reflection of an essentially humectant active ingredient.
Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
73,5
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry skin
91
Normal to oily skin
91
Sensitive skin
0
Anti-aging
12,75
✅ Sensitivity verdict
Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0). Universal profile.
«Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a fermented polypeptide (Bacillus subtilis) with superior humectant properties to hyaluronic acid, according to some studies - its water retention capacity is said to be 5,000 times greater than that of standard HA, although these comparisons vary according to sources and measurement methods. In cosmetic formulations, PGA acts on the surface (large molecule) to form a moisturizing film. The only BeautyDecoded review notes a fragrance or odor problem - probably the natural odor of the PGA bacterial ferment. Anti-aging score 12.75: surface humectant, not corrective active. Interesting option as a moisturizing supplement if the scent is acceptable.»
User feedback
«Recommended for its superior humectant properties to standard HA. Pleasant to apply and wear, but the smell or fragrance was a problem for me.»
Verdict - Universal moisturizer. Profile 91. Sensitive skin 0. Rating 3.5/5. PGA ferment odor reported. Anti-ageing 12.75: surface humectant.
Suggested routines
Four routines according to the profile.
Articulation of The Inkey List products according to skin profiles. BeautyDecoded scores are used to identify optimal combinations for each profile.
| Profile | Morning | Evening |
|---|---|---|
| Combination to oily skin - blemishes and spots | PHA Toner (imperfections 76.5) → 20 % Niacinamide Serum (anti-aging 85) → SPF 50+ | Retinol Serum (anti-aging 76.5, 2 evenings/week) - gradual introduction mandatory |
| Dry to normal skin - anti-aging and moisturizing | Caffeine Eye Cream (dry skin 91) → Q10 Serum → rich cream → SPF | Retinol Serum 2 nights/week + occlusive moisturizer on top |
| Sensitive skin - maximum tolerance | Mini Oat Cleansing Balm (sensitive skin +0.5) → Q10 Serum (sensitive skin 0) → SPF | PHA Toner (-0.75 - the least irritating exfoliant in the catalog) |
| Pigmentation spots - depigmentation | Vitamin C Serum (stains 90.1) OR Tranexamic Acid (49.3, well tolerated) → SPF 50+ | PHA Toner (stains 76.5) - minimum patience 2-3 months |
Key precautions. Retinol is contraindicated during pregnancy and breast-feeding. Never combine retinol with a chemical exfoliant (PHA, AHA) on the same evening. - cumulative irritation. SPF 50+ in the morning is mandatory for any retinol, vitamin C or tranexamic acid protocol.
Market positioning
The Inkey List vs. four active-centric alternatives.
Five marques with accessible active ingredient positioning. The Inkey List occupies a specific position: between The Ordinary (pure single-ingredient actives, minimal price) and CeraVe (ceramides, more mass-market), with a differentiating advantage in educational packaging and B Corp certification.
| Brand | Average price | Positioning vs The Inkey List |
|---|---|---|
| The Inkey List (UK) | 10-15 € | Complete formulas, pleasant textures, education - B Corp |
| The Ordinary (Canada) | 5-15 € | Pure single-ingredient actives - minimal cost - less guidance |
| CeraVe (USA) | 10-20 € | Ceramides + niacinamide - barrier - mass distribution |
| Paula's Choice (USA) | 30-50 € | BHA/AHA clinics - independent studies - oily skin |
| NIOD (Canada) | 27-65 € | Premium - copper peptides - high concentrations |
Synthetic reading. The Inkey List is positioned between The Ordinary (less expensive, less guided) and CeraVe (more accessible in French pharmacies, less advanced corrective actives). For a French consumer : available on theinkeylist.com, Lookfantastic, BeautyBay and Sephora. Availability in physical French pharmacies is almost nil - its natural territory is beauty e-commerce.
Frequently asked questions
Everything you need really know.
Is The Inkey List a good brand?
The Inkey List is a serious British brand with a philosophy of documented transparency, a certification B Corp and 87 million products sold. BeautyDecoded lists 11 products with 16 reviews - the PHA Toner (universal profile 84-91, triple action), the Q10 Serum (universal, sensitive skin 0) and Caffeine Eye Cream (anti-puffiness, rated 5/5 over 1.5 years) are the strongest products. Identified limitation: the majority of products have only 1 BeautyDecoded review - conclusions remain provisional.
The Inkey List vs The Ordinary: which to choose?
These two marquess are complementary. The Ordinary Pure active ingredients at minimum cost (niacinamide 10 % at €6, retinol 1 % at €8) - ideal for connoisseurs who know what they need. The Inkey List These products have slightly more complete formulas, educational packaging that explains the active ingredient and how to use it, and generally more pleasant textures - ideal for building your first active ingredient routines. Prices are similar. The choice depends on comfort level with raw formulas vs. educational guidance.
Which is the best The Inkey List product according to BeautyDecoded?
Of the BeautyDecoded data available, the PHA Toner stands out: almost universal profile (84-91), sensitive skin -0.75 (the least irritating of the exfoliants in the catalog), triple action anti-aging/imperfections/blemishes at 68-76.5, and the only review (5/5) confirms effectiveness with patience. Niacinamide 20 % has the best anti-aging score (85), but only one mixed review on pores. Caffeine Eye Cream is the anti-puffiness benchmark (rating 5/5 on 1.5 years' use).
Is The Inkey List suitable for sensitive skin?
On the whole, yes, with nuances. The Mini Oat Cleansing Balm is the only product with a positive sensitive skin score (+0.5) - the best cleanser for sensitive profiles. The Q10 Serum, Caffeine Eye Cream and Polyglutamic Acid have scores of 0 - well tolerated. PHA Toner (-0.75) is the gentlest exfoliant choice in the catalog. To be avoided on sensitive skin: Retinol (-2.7), Vitamin C Serum (-3.0) and 15 % Vitamin C + EGF (-1.0).
Is Tranexamic Acid 2 % dosed enough?
Question raised by BeautyDecoded users themselves: two out of three users compared unfavorably with Inkey List's TXA 2 %. TXA 4 % by HaruHaru Wonder. The literature on tranexamic acid in cosmetics suggests concentrations of 3 to 5 % for a documented depigmenting effect - at 2 %, efficacy may be suboptimal for established blemishes. Relevant as a first step or in combination with other depigmenting actives (e.g. azelaic acid).
Where to buy The Inkey List in France
The Inkey List is not distributed in French pharmacies. It is available on theinkeylist.com (delivery from UK), on Lookfantastic, BeautyBay and Sephora.co.uk. Prices in euros are slightly higher than those displayed in dollars on the American site. Since July 2025, the brand has been available in all Ulta Beauty stores in the United States - but not yet in France.
What is The Inkey List B Corp certification?
Visit certification B Corporation (B Corp) is an international label certifying that a company meets high standards of social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability. To obtain it, a company must pass an independent assessment covering its governance, employees, customers, community and environmental impact. The Inkey List has obtained this certification - independently verified social and environmental commitment - which sets it apart from The Ordinary / DECIEM, which is not B Corp certified.
What is the BeautyDecoded application?
BeautyDecoded allows you to choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to the’INCI analysis. The application analyzes formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. 11 The Inkey List products are referenced in the database with 16 user reviews - a limited volume that reflects the brand's relative youth in the BeautyDecoded database. It does not constitute a medical consultation.
Further information
Review a The Inkey List product on your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Information for educational purposes only, not a substitute for medical consultation. BeautyDecoded is a cosmetic analysis application using artificial intelligence and is not a medical diagnostic tool. The results presented depend on the user's diligence and skin type. In the event of a skin reaction to a cosmetic product, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. This article does not constitute a commercial partnership with The Inkey List brand.
