The Inkey List review: what do doctors think these treatments are worth?

Retinol, Niacinamide 20%, PHA Toner, Vitamin C - analysis of 11 BeautyDecoded products and real user reviews

Article written by Dr Sylvain David - Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Updated: March 2026

Information : This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute a medical consultation. BeautyDecoded application allows you to choose cosmetics adapted to your skin type thanks to artificial intelligence.

The Inkey List - «NO BS, just better skin»: the brand that decodes INCIs

The Inkey List is a British brand founded in 2018 by Colette Laxton (marketer) and Mark Curry (scientist). Its name is a play on words: «Inkey» is the English pronunciation of «INCI».» - the international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients - with integrated «key». The philosophy: to make skin science accessible to all, with prices ranging from 7 to 26.50 $, without jargon, without lies.

In July 2025, the brand launched the 1,450+ Ulta Beauty stores in the United States - a sign of its international growth. It won 6 consecutive Allure Best of Beauty Awards and sold more than 87 million products worldwide. The Inkey List is certified B Corp - independently verified social and environmental commitment.

Its difference vs. The Ordinary: slightly more complete formulas (less strictly mono-active), more pleasant textures, educational packaging that explains what each product is used for. Its difference vs NIOD: prices 3 to 5 times lower for less formulatively complex active ingredients. The Inkey List is positioned as the best entry point for building an active routine without breaking the bank.What sets The Inkey List apart - five formulatory principles

«The Inkey List is the brand I recommend to patients who want to start incorporating corrective actives into their routine without undue financial risk. Three observations after BeautyDecoded analysis of 11 products: firstly, the algorithmic scores are generally honest with the promises - Niacinamide 20% actually has an anti-aging score of 85, PHA Toner is genuinely universal. Secondly, the majority of reviews are limited to 1 user - so conclusions remain provisional. Thirdly, the strongest signal in the catalog is PHA Toner, which combines remarkable tolerance for an exfoliant (sensitive skin -0.75) with an almost universal profile and triple corrective action.»

- Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon, Researcher and Youtuber

All 11 The Inkey List products - BeautyDecoded overview

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

The Inkey List review - product by product analysis (BeautyDecoded data)

Retinol Serum - The leading anti-aging corrective

3.13/5  - 4 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~13 € / 30 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin  (score: -2.7)

Expert deciphering

Retinol serum. Anti-ageing score: 76.5 and imperfections: 76.5 - strong dual corrective action. Blemish score: 71.4 - relevant. Dry skin score: 84 and normal to dry skin: 91 - profile suitable for non-oily skin. Oily skin score: 38.5 - unsuitable, which may seem surprising for a retinol. Sensitive skin score: -2.7 - slight caution, consistent with an irritating active ingredient. Score 3.125/5 out of 4 reviews.

Retinol is the best-documented anti-aging active in cosmetology (Kafi R. et al., Arch Dermatol, 2007): it stimulates collagen synthesis and accelerates cell renewal via nuclear RAR/RXR receptors. Priced at €13/30 ml, The Inkey List democratizes this active ingredient with an initiation concentration - suitable for retinol beginners.

The 4 BeautyDecoded reviews are instructive and nuanced. One review mentions visible pore reduction («obviously helped reduce the size of my pores») but also a strong smell, redness and a «visually accentuates wrinkles» effect - this last point is a known transient effect of retinol (purging), not a formula flaw. Two reviews mention the unpleasant smell. One review stresses that it smoothes the skin with a gradual introduction. Important note: one review points out that there are better alternatives in the same price range.

Source : Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007.

My analysis

«The Inkey List Retinol Serum has solid anti-aging (76.5) and blemish (76.5) scores for an entry-level retinol at €13. Opinions confirm real efficacy on pores, but diverge on odor and redness - effects expected of a retinol in its initiation phase. Sensitive skin score -2.7: slight caution - gradual introduction mandatory (1 evening/week for 4 weeks). SPF 50+ in the morning essential.»

Verdict: Corrective accessible - Anti-ageing 76.5, imperfections 76.5. Score 3.125/5 out of 4 reviews. Sensitive skin -2.7: gradual introduction mandatory. Strong odor reported.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (4 reviews in total)

3.1/5  «Leaves a soft feeling on the skin. Has obviously helped reduce the size of my pores. But strong unpleasant smell, redness and visually «accentuates» my wrinkles - I'm stopping.»

3.1/5  «Super retinol - apply 1-2 times a week and gradually increase. Smoothes skin.»

3.1/5  «Good for the price but really unpleasant smell. Rather sticky after application. For the same price range, there's better.»

3.1/5  «Disappointing - no noticeable effect. I'm turning to Garancia's Crème la Foudroyante.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

PHA Toner - The Capricious Skin Revelation

5.00/5  - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~12 € / 100 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended  (score: -0.75)

Expert deciphering

Exfoliating toner with polyhydroxy acids (PHA). Virtually universal profile: 84-91 on all skin types. Sensitive skin score: -0.75 - slightly cautious, remarkable for an exfoliant (PHAs generally have much more negative scores). Anti-ageing score: 68.0 and imperfections: 76.5 and blemishes: 76.5 - solid triple corrective action. Rated 5/5 on 1 review.

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are the exfoliating generation after classic AHAs. They have a larger molecule, which penetrates less deeply into the epidermis - significantly reducing their irritant potential while retaining a real exfoliating effect. This is why this toner's sensitive skin score (-0.75) is so much higher than that of a standard AHA toner (-4 to -8). A relevant option for profiles that cannot tolerate direct AHAs.

The only BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is remarkably clinically precise: «Great for fussy skin that reacts to nothing. It's effective, but you need patience. At first, it feels like you're putting water on it, so you have to take it easy and use soothing products along with it.» These three points - real efficacy, necessary patience, gradual introduction - are exactly the characteristics expected of a well-formulated PHA.

My analysis

«PHA Toner is the discovery of The Inkey List range in BeautyDecoded - almost universal profile (84-91), sensitive skin -0.75 (excellent for an exfoliator), triple action anti-aging/imperfections/blemishes at 68-76.5. The 5/5 review confirms effectiveness with patience. At €12/100 ml: best formulation value in the catalog. 1 review: insufficient basis for overall conclusion.»

Verdict: TOP value for money - Universal profile 84-91. Sensitive skin -0.75 (best exfoliator in the catalog). Triple action 68-76.5. Rating 5/5 (1 review). Patience required.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

5.0/5  «Great for fussy skin that reacts at the drop of a hat. It's effective but you need patience. At first it feels like you're using water - you have to take it easy and use soothing products with it so as not to overload the skin.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

20% Niacinamide Serum - High concentration, Results to be confirmed

3.00/5  - 1 review BeautyDecoded | Price : ~12 € / 30 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended  (score: -0.5)

Expert deciphering

Serum niacinamide 20% - the highest concentration in The Inkey List catalog. Anti-aging score: 85.0 - the best in The Inkey List catalog analyzed in BeautyDecoded. Blemishes score: 51.0 and redness: 21.25 - relevant. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin: 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score: -0.5 - slight caution at 20% niacinamide (literature suggests that concentrations above 10% may cause redness and tingling in some profiles). Score 3/5 on 1 review.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a documented multi-target active ingredient: reinforcement of the skin barrier by stimulation of endogenous ceramides (Draelos ZD et al., J Cosmet Dermatol, 2005), sebum regulation, inhibition of melanosome transfer (blemishes), anti-inflammatory effect. At 20%, The Inkey List offers one of the highest concentrations on the consumer market - above the clinical threshold of 10% generally used in the literature.

The only BeautyDecoded review (3/5) is honest: «no visible effect on pores after 2.5 months of use». This signal of insufficient results after 2.5 months deserves analysis: niacinamide at 20% may paradoxically be less effective on certain profiles if the concentration generates slight sub-clinical irritation slowing absorption - or if expectations are directed at pores (less documented action) rather than barrier and radiance (niacinamide's main actions).

Source : Draelos ZD et al. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005.

My analysis

«20% Niacinamide Serum is the product with the best anti-aging score in The Inkey List catalog (85.0) - consistent with the high concentration. 1 mixed opinion on pores after 2.5 months. Niacinamide at 20% is effective on barrier and radiance, less documented on pore reduction. Sensitive skin -0.5: slight caution at this concentration. At €12: very competitive vs. The Ordinary Niacinamide 10%.»

Verdict: Best anti-aging catalog score (85.0) - Rating 3/5 out of 1 review (insufficient). Blemishes 51. Oily skin 91. Sensitive skin -0.5. 20% concentration: caution.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

3.0/5  «No results - no visible effect on pores yet after 2 and a half months of use.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Caffeine Eye Cream - Anti-Puffiness Eye Contour

5.00/5  - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~13 € / 15 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin  (score : 0)

Expert deciphering

Caffeine eye contour for puffiness. Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score: 0 - perfectly suited to the reactive periorbital area. Anti-ageing score: 25.5 - moderate for an eye contour, honestly reflecting a formula focused on puffiness rather than deep wrinkle correction. Rated 5/5 on 1 review.

Caffeine exerts a vasoconstrictive action on the micro-capillaries of the periorbital area, reducing the vascular stasis responsible for the puffy, pockmarked appearance. It's one of the best-validated active ingredients for morning puffiness - its action is rapid (after just a few weeks of regular application) but reversible on discontinuation. It's a targeted response to a specific problem, not a global anti-aging correction.

The only BeautyDecoded review (5/5) is very precise and clinically reliable: «I've been using it for a year and a half every night before my other eye contour. My eyes are no longer puffy when I wake up and it moisturizes properly, as I have no problems in this area.» Using it as an undercoat for another eye contour is an advanced practice confirmed by skincare professionals. The length of use (1.5 years) lends strong credibility to this opinion.

My analysis

«Caffeine Eye Cream is the best eye contour product in The Inkey List catalog in BeautyDecoded - sensitive skin 0, dry skin 91, rating 5/5 on a review of exemplary duration of use (1.5 years). Anti-puffiness action documented by caffeine. Moderate anti-aging score 25.5: this product targets puffiness, not deep wrinkles. 1 review: insufficient base.»

Verdict: TOP anti-puffiness - Rating 5/5 (1.5 years' use). Sensitive skin 0. Dry skin 91. Anti-puffiness confirmed. Anti-ageing 25.5: comfort care, not wrinkle corrector.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

5.0/5  «Fabulous anti-puffiness - I've been using it for a year and a half every night before my other eye contour. I no longer wake up with puffy eyes and it moisturizes properly.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Vitamin C Serum - Quick Emptying Tube

3.00/5  - 1 review BeautyDecoded | Price : ~11 € / 30 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Not suitable for sensitive skin  (score: -3)

Expert deciphering

Vitamin C Serum. Anti-ageing score: 90.1 and blemishes: 90.1 - the co-best scores of the entire The Inkey List catalog analyzed in BeautyDecoded, on a par with Niacinamide 20% on anti-ageing. Oily skin score: 84 and normal to oily skin score: 84 - suitable profile. Dry skin score: 28 - unsuitable. Sensitive skin score: -3.0 - not suitable for sensitive skin. Score 3/5 on 1 review.

The paradox of this product in BeautyDecoded: excellent formulatory scores (anti-aging 90.1, blemishes 90.1) but a user rating of 3/5. The review's explanation is practical, not formulatory: «the tube is barely 3 weeks long for daily application» - a problem of format, not effectiveness. The quantity/price ratio (€11 for 3 weeks) is perceived as unfavorable compared to alternatives such as The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension or L'Oréal's 12% serum.

Dry skin score 28 and sensitive skin -3.0: the formula probably contains pure ascorbic acid or a slightly irritating derivative - consistent with the scores. At €11 for 3 weeks' use with daily application, the effective monthly cost (~€14) is less competitive than it first appears.

My analysis

«The Inkey List Vitamin C Serum has outstanding anti-aging and blemish scores (90.1 each - the best in the range), but the only review (3/5) targets a practical problem: the tube empties in 3 weeks of daily use. Sensitive skin score -3.0: unsuitable. 1 review insufficient to conclude. Effective monthly cost to be assessed before purchase.»

Verdict: Excellent scores, problematic format - Anti-aging 90.1 and blemishes 90.1 (co-best catalog). Score 3/5: tube empty in 3 weeks. Sensitive skin -3.0: unsuitable.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

3.0/5  «Good but empties quickly - compared to other marquess, the tube barely makes 3 weeks for daily application.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Tranexamic Acid Serum - Dosage at 2% Contested

3.50/5  - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~13 € / 30 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended  (score: -0.5)

Expert deciphering

Serum tranexamic acid 2%. Quasi-universal profile score: 80-91. Redness score: 49.3 and blotchiness score: 49.3 - relevant for a depigmenting/anti-redness agent. Sensitive skin score: -0.5 - slight caution, remarkably low for a corrective agent. Anti-ageing score: 25.5 - moderate. Score 3.5/5 out of 3 reviews.

The 3 BeautyDecoded reviews converge on the same point of vigilance: the 2% dosage is judged insufficient by two experienced users who compare it with HaruHaru Wonder at 4% («at 2%, I wonder if it's really effective - with HaruHaru at 4% I can see a difference»). This signal is clinically relevant: the literature on tranexamic acid in cosmetics suggests concentrations of 3 to 5% for a documented depigmenting effect. At 2%, efficacy may be sub-optimal for established blemishes.

One review mentions combined morning/evening use with azelaic acid - a relevant combination, as the two active ingredients have different mechanisms of action on melanogenesis. Tolerance appears to be good (sensitive skin -0.5), making it a first-tier active ingredient for sensitive profiles seeking gentle depigmentation.

My analysis

«The Inkey List Tranexamic Acid Serum is appreciated for its tolerance (sensitive skin -0.5) but criticized for its dosage at 2%: two users report insufficient efficacy vs HaruHaru Wonder at 4%. This signal is consistent with the literature - 2% may be suboptimal for established spots. Relevant as first tier or in combination with other depigmenting actives.»

Verdict: Contested dosage - Redness 49.3, blotchiness 49.3. Sensitive skin -0.5 (good tolerance). Rating 3.5/5. 2% judged insufficient vs HaruHaru 4% in 2/3 reviews. 3 reviews in total.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

3.5/5  «Mitigated - dosed at 2%, I wonder if it's really effective in reducing redness. I use the HaruHaru Wonder one at 4% and see a difference.»

3.5/5  «I also use HaruHaru, which I find soothing. In the morning I use azelaic acid and in the evening tranexamic.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Q10 Serum - Discreet Universal Antioxidant

4.50/5  - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~13 € / 30 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin  (score : 0)

Expert deciphering

Serum with coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone). Exceptional quasi-universal profile: 84-91 on all skin types. Sensitive skin score: 0 - perfectly adapted. Anti-ageing score: 25.5 - moderate, consistent with Q10 whose action is antioxidant (protective) rather than corrective (restructuring). Score 4.5/5 out of 1 review.

Coenzyme Q10 is a fat-soluble antioxidant naturally present in skin mitochondria, whose concentration decreases with age. Its action is essentially preventive: neutralizing free radicals generated by UV rays, pollution and oxidative stress. Moderate anti-aging score 25.5: this score honestly reflects a background protective active ingredient, not an active corrective like retinol or vitamin C.

The only BeautyDecoded review (4.5/5) is concise but positive: «moisturizing serum, smoothed skin.» The immediate smoothing effect is probably linked to the formula's texturizing active ingredients in addition to Q10. The universal profile (84-91) and sensitive skin 0 make this serum an accessible option for all profiles looking for a preventive daily antioxidant. 1 opinion: insufficient base.

My analysis

«Q10 Serum is the universal anti-oxidant in The Inkey List range - profile 84-91 on all skin types, sensitive skin 0, score 4.5/5 confirming a moisturizing and smoothing effect. Anti-ageing score 25.5: preventive, not corrective. Use in synergy with an SPF for complete antioxidant protection. 1 insufficient review.»

Verdict: Universal antioxidant - Profile 84-91. Sensitive skin 0. Rating 4.5/5. Anti-ageing 25.5: preventive, not corrective. Ideal in combination with SPF. 1 insufficient review.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

4.5/5  «Not bad - moisturizing serum, smoothed skin.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Mini Oat Cleansing Balm - Gentle fragrance cleanser

3.50/5  - 1 review BeautyDecoded | Price : ~10 € / 50 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin  (score : 0.5)

Expert deciphering

Oatmeal cleansing balm. Dry skin score: 84 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile for a rich balm. Oily skin score: 0 and normal to oily skin score: 3.5 - formally unsuitable for oily skin. Sensitive skin score: +0.5 - well adapted, the only product in The Inkey List with a positive sensitive skin score. Redness score: 76.5 - excellent, consistent with the soothing properties of colloidal oatmeal. Anti-aging score: 44.2. Rated 3.5/5 out of 1 review.

Colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) is a soothing active ingredient with well-documented efficacy on sensitive and atopic skin. Oats' beta-glucans strengthen the skin barrier and reduce inflammation. Redness score 76.5: the highest of all The Inkey List products analyzed - remarkable for a cleanser. Sensitive skin score +0.5: the only positive score in the catalog, confirming the gentleness of the formulation.

The only BeautyDecoded review (3.5/5) raises two important practical signals: the presence of «grains» that make it unsuitable for use on the eyes, and a problem with the product's phase shift («has a tendency to go out of phase»). Phase shift is characteristic of biphasic formulations without sufficient emulsifier - a formulation point to watch out for. Despite this, tolerance and a gentle effect on the skin are confirmed.

My analysis

«Mini Oat Cleansing Balm is the most suitable product for sensitive and dry skin in The Inkey List catalog (sensitive skin +0.5 - only positive score, redness 76.5 - best catalog). Two practical signals to watch out for: grains advising against periorbital use, and possible product phase shift. Oily skin score 0: unsuitable for oily skin».»

Verdict: Best score for catalog sensitivity (+0.5) and redness (76.5). Dry skin 84. Score 3.5/5. Grains (not recommended for eyes) and phase shift reported. Oily skin 0: unsuitable.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

3.5/5  «Good product but - cleans well and leaves skin soft. I don't use it for the eyes because of the grains. Also, the product tends to go out of phase. Not my favorite.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Brighten-I Eye Cream - Limits on Dark Circles

2.00/5  - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~13 € / 15 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended  (score: -0.5)

Expert deciphering

Radiance eye contour care. Dry skin score: 91 and normal to dry skin score: 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score: -0.5 - slight caution. Anti-ageing score: 11.9 - low. Spots score : 0 - no depigmenting active ingredients identified formally. Score 2/5 on 1 review.

The only BeautyDecoded review (2/5) is clinically instructive: «no brightening improvement on my very dark circles.» This signal is consistent with the stain score of 0 - the formula contains no documented depigmenting active ingredients in useful concentrations. Dark circles (periorbital hyperpigmentation) require specific active ingredients: vitamin C, retinoid, kojic acid, arbutin or tranexamic acid.

There are two main types of dark circles: blue/violet circles (vascular origin - caffeine effective) and brown circles (pigmentary origin - depigmenting active ingredients necessary). Caffeine Eye Cream The Inkey List successfully targets vascular dark circles. This Brighten-I Eye Cream seems to target brown pigmented circles, but without any depigmenting active ingredients identified in the scores, which explains the disappointment of the user with «very brown circles».

My analysis

«Brighten-I Eye Cream disappoints on dark circles - score 2/5, no brightening improvement on pigmented circles, consistent with the spot score 0. This cream is suitable for normal dry skin (91) but does not contain the active ingredients needed for pigmented dark circles. For this profile, Caffeine Eye Cream or a product with vitamin C would be more relevant.»

Verdict: Disappointing on dark circles - Rated 2/5 (1 review). Dark circles 0: absence of depigmenting active ingredient. Anti-ageing 11.9. Dry skin 91. Vascular dark circles: prefer Caffeine Eye Cream.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

2.0/5  «Useless - no brightening improvement on my very dark circles.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum - Texture Problématique

2.00/5  - 1 opinion BeautyDecoded | Price : ~13 € / 30 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Slight caution recommended  (score: -1)

Expert deciphering

Vitamin C serum 15% + EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor). Spots score: 76.5 - solid. Dry skin score: 73.5 - fair. Sensitive skin score: -1.0 - slight caution. Anti-aging score: 34 - moderate despite the presence of EGF. Score 2/5 on 1 review.

EGF (epidermal growth factor) is a signal peptide that stimulates skin cell proliferation and differentiation. Its topical efficacy is debated in the literature - its large molecular size probably limits its cutaneous penetration. The combination of vitamin C 15% + EGF is innovative, but the anti-aging score of 34 suggests that the BeautyDecoded algorithm does not identify a particularly potent concentration or form.

The only BeautyDecoded review (2/5) is lapidary: «I didn't like the texture, I used it very little.» This practical signal - giving up on the product because of its texture - is a real limitation independent of formulatory efficacy. 1 review insufficient for any verdict on efficacy. Texture is a crucial cosmetic parameter in adherence to a routine.

My analysis

«The 15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum is discontinued after few trials in the sole BeautyDecoded review (2/5) due to unsuitable texture - no efficacy assessment possible. Score 76.5 formulatory relevance. 1 insufficient review. Texture is a real hindrance to routine adherence, regardless of formula.»

Verdict: Insufficient data - Rating 2/5 (1 review, abandoned for texture). Spots 76.5. Anti-ageing 34. Sensitive skin -1.0. 1 review does not allow any verdict on efficacy.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

2.0/5  «Disappointing - I didn't like the texture. I used it very little.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Polyglutamic Acid - Promising moisturizer but Signal Fragrance

3.50/5  - 1 review BeautyDecoded | Price : ~12 € / 30 ml

BeautyDecoded algorithmic scores

Verdict Sensitivity (Dr David rule) : Suitable for sensitive skin  (score : 0)

Expert deciphering

Serum with polyglutamic acid. Normal to dry skin score: 91 and normal to oily skin score: 91 - almost universal profile. Sensitive skin score: 0 - suitable. Anti-ageing score: 12.75 - low, reflecting an essentially humectant active ingredient. Score 3.5/5 out of 1 review.

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a fermented polypeptide (Bacillus subtilis) with superior humectant properties to hyaluronic acid according to some studies - its water retention capacity is said to be 5,000 times greater than that of standard HA. Please note: these comparisons vary according to sources and measurement methods. In cosmetic formulations, PGA acts on the surface (large molecule) to form a moisturizing film.

The only BeautyDecoded review (3.5/5) notes a fragrance or odor problem: «this product was recommended to me for its humectant properties 5,000 times superior to HA - pleasant to apply but [the odor is problematic].» This signal is consistent with the sensitive skin score 0 - the reported fragrance may be the natural odor of the PGA bacterial ferment. 1 insufficient opinion.

My analysis

«Polyglutamic Acid has a near-universal profile (91) and sensitive skin 0, but the only review reports a problematic odor - probably linked to the PGA ferment. Anti-ageing score 12.75: surface humectant, not corrective active. Interesting option as a moisturizing supplement if odor is acceptable. 1 insufficient review.»

Verdict: Universal moisturizer - Profile 91. Sensitive skin 0. Rating 3.5/5. PGA ferment odor reported. Anti-ageing 12.75: surface humectant. 1 insufficient review.

BeautyDecoded user reviews (1 review in total)

3.5/5  «Recommended for its superior humectant properties to standard HA. Pleasant to apply and wear, but the smell or fragrance was a problem for me.»

Note on BeautyDecoded reviews: the ratings and review excerpts displayed on this page come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and review details are available on each product sheet.

Build a routine with The Inkey List - by skin profile

BeautyDecoded scores are used to identify optimal associations by profile:

Combination to oily skin - blemishes and spots

Morning: PHA Toner (exfoliating, blemishes 76.5) + 20% Niacinamide Serum (anti-ageing 85, blemishes 51) + SPF 50+ (anti-wrinkle)

Evening: Retinol Serum (anti-aging 76.5, 2 evenings/week) - gradual introduction mandatory

Dry to normal skin - anti-aging and moisturizing

Morning: Caffeine Eye Cream (eye contour, dry skin 91) + Q10 Serum (universal antioxidant) + rich cream

Evening: Retinol Serum 2 nights/week + occlusive moisturizer on top

Sensitive skin - maximum tolerance

Morning: Mini Oat Cleansing Balm (sensitive skin +0.5, redness 76.5) + Q10 Serum (sensitive skin 0) + SPF

Evening: PHA Toner (sensitive skin -0.75 - the least irritating exfoliant in the catalog)

Pigmentation spots - depigmentation

Morning: Vitamin C Serum (90.1 spots) OR Tranexamic Acid Serum (49.3 + good tolerance) + SPF 50+.

Evening: PHA Toner (stains 76.5) - minimum patience 2-3 months

The Inkey List vs The Ordinary vs alternatives - competitive positioning

The Inkey List is positioned between The Ordinary (less expensive, less guided) and CeraVe (more accessible in French pharmacies, less advanced corrective actives). For a French consumer : The Inkey List is available on theinkeylist.com, Lookfantastic, BeautyBay and Sephora.. Availability in physical French pharmacies is almost nil - its natural territory is beauty e-commerce.

Frequently asked questions - The Inkey List review

Is The Inkey List a good brand?

The Inkey List is a serious British brand with a documented philosophy of transparency, B Corp certification and 87 million products sold. BeautyDecoded lists 11 products with 16 reviews - PHA Toner (universal profile 84-91, triple action), Q10 Serum (universal, sensitive skin 0) and Caffeine Eye Cream (anti-puffiness, rating 5/5 over 1.5 years) are the strongest products. Identified limitation: the majority of products have only 1 BeautyDecoded review - conclusions remain provisional.

The Inkey List vs The Ordinary: which to choose?

These two marquess are complementary. The Ordinary: pure actives at minimal cost (niacinamide 10% at €6, retinol 1% at €8) - ideal for connoisseurs who know what they need. The Inkey List: slightly more complete formulas, educational packaging that explains the active ingredient and how to use it, generally more pleasant textures - ideal for building your first active routines. Prices are similar. The choice depends on comfort level with raw formulas vs. educational guidance.

Which is the best The Inkey List product according to BeautyDecoded?

Of the BeautyDecoded data available, PHA Toner stands out: almost universal profile (84-91), sensitive skin -0.75 (the least irritating of the exfoliants in the catalog), triple action anti-aging/imperfections/blemishes at 68-76.5, and the only review (5/5) confirms effectiveness with patience. Niacinamide 20% has the best anti-aging score (85), but only one mixed review on pores. Caffeine Eye Cream is the anti-puffiness benchmark (rating 5/5 on 1.5 years' use).

Is The Inkey List suitable for sensitive skin?

Overall, yes, with nuances. Mini Oat Cleansing Balm is the only product with a positive sensitive skin score (+0.5) - the best cleanser for sensitive profiles. Q10 Serum, Caffeine Eye Cream and Polyglutamic Acid have scores of 0 - well tolerated. PHA Toner (-0.75) is the gentlest exfoliant choice in the catalog. To avoid on sensitive skin: Retinol (-2.7), Vitamin C Serum (-3.0) and 15% Vitamin C + EGF (-1.0).

Where to buy The Inkey List in France

The Inkey List is not distributed in French pharmacies. It is available on theinkeylist.com (delivery from UK, shipping costs according to order), on Lookfantastic, BeautyBay and Sephora.fr. Prices in euros are slightly higher than those displayed in dollars on the American site. Since July 2025, the brand has been available in all Ulta Beauty stores in the United States - but not yet in France.

What is the BeautyDecoded application?

BeautyDecoded uses artificial intelligence to help you choose the right cosmetics for your skin type. The application analyzes INCI formulations and generates compatibility scores for 80 skin types. 11 The Inkey List products are referenced in the database, with a total of 16 user reviews - a limited volume that reflects the brand's relative youth in the BeautyDecoded database. It does not constitute a medical consultation.

BeautyDecoded - The science of skin. Without marketing.

Information for educational purposes only. This information does not replace a medical consultation. Dr Sylvain David, Plastic Surgeon, Researcher and Youtuber.