How to remove blackheads - assets that work according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
To remove blackheads permanently, we act on their cause rather than piercing them: gentle cleansing, BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant to unclog pores deep down, niacinamide to regulate sebum, retinol in the evening and a weekly clay mask. Over-use of patches and blackhead removers damages the skin and brings back blackheads.
Where do blackheads ?
Blackheads, or open comedones, appear mainly on the T-zone, especially around the nose. The hair ducts become clogged with dead cells, sebum and residues; the cluster hardens, clogs the pore and oxidizes on contact with air, turning black.
Sebum & dilated pores
Oily and combination skins produce more sebum and have more dilated pores: they are more prone to sebum production.
Power supply
Sugar-induced insulin spikes alter the quality of sebum, which becomes less fluid and clogs pores more.
Cleansing & moisturizing
Overly aggressive cleansing and dehydrated skin cause the skin to produce more sebum.
Comedogens & hormones
Comedogenic cosmetics and make-up, hormonal variations (puberty, menopause) all contribute to the appearance of the skin.
L'salicylic acid (BHA)
The key active ingredient against blackheads. Liposoluble, BHA penetrates deep into pores to clean them thoroughly - ideal for oily, acne-prone skin and dilated pores. Present in cleansers, but it doesn't stay there long enough: a leave-on lotion is more effective.
Geek & Gorgeous Calm Down 4% PHA + BHA
Gentle exfoliator - reactive skin
Gentle exfoliant combining PHA and BHA, designed for reactive skin that cannot tolerate conventional exfoliants. Blemish score 85. Sensitive skin score -1.5 - slight caution, but reputedly gentle formula. Unclogs pores without causing redness according to numerous feedbacks, compatible with vitamin C in the morning.
Visit niacinamide (B3)
It reduces sebum production - a prime active ingredient against blackheads - and strengthens the skin barrier, useful when exfoliating or using retinol.
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide
Universal - glass skin effect
Serum with propolis and niacinamide, for a glass skin effect. Imperfections score 81,6. Sensitive skin score +0.15 - adapted, including reactive skin. Universal, moisturizing profile, with no greasy, flaky finish, according to feedback. Regulates sebum while illuminating the complexion, at a very low price.
Visit retinol (vitamin A)
It accelerates cell renewal - dead cells are replaced more quickly, unclogging pores - regulates sebum and has an anti-inflammatory action. Powerful but irritating: start with two to three applications a week, and moisturize well. Sun protection essential.
Geek & Gorgeous A-Game 5 (0.05% Retinal)
Ideal for beginners - pores & marques
Low-dose retinal serum (0.05 %), ideal for starting out without too much irritation, useful for pores and marques. Blemish scores 76,5 and stains 81,6. Sensitive skin score -1.45 - slight caution. Use twice a week at first, with sun protection in the morning.
Care mattifiers
In addition, a sebum-regulating mattifying care product helps reduce the appearance of enlarged pores on oily skin, and should be applied in a thin layer.
SVR Sébiaclear Mat + Pores
Oily skin - avoid on dry skin
Matifying cream with salicylic acid and niacinamide to regulate sebum and tighten pores. Oily skin score 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score -1.75 - slight caution, Not suitable for dry skin (16.8). Real mattifying effect according to feedback, but should be applied in a thin layer as it can fluff up.
The mask with’clay
A purifying clay mask (kaolin, charcoal, sometimes salicylic acid) applied once a week matifies and unclogs pores. Suitable for most skin types, it completes your routine without replacing it.
Anti-blackhead routine, step by step
First and foremost, stop using comedogenic products and pay close attention to formulas, to prevent occlusive materials from becoming embedded in the hair shaft.
Unclog & regulate
Cleaning : suitable cleansing gel and lotion, without stripping the skin.
BHA Scrub After cleaning, without rinsing.
Niacinamide A serum in the morning.
Retinol A cream or serum in the evening.
Hydration The right product for your skin type.
Clay mask once a week.
Visit errors not to commit
Do not drill
Squeezing comedones doesn't solve anything: they return within a few days, and poorly disinfected fingers can lead to cysts and scarring. Better to consult a dermatologist or beautician.
Patches & blackhead removers
They extract in the short term but irritate if used too often, and can further dilate pores. Punctual solutions, not an in-depth treatment.
Alcohol & body scrubs
Stripping cosmetics damage the barrier. Physical scrubs irritate without any real benefit: prefer gentle chemical exfoliation.
Steam bath
Occasionally useful before cleansing, but do not overdo it: water that's too hot or too often weakens the skin.
For stubborn cases, a dermatologist may suggest peels or lasers to tighten the hair ducts and limit the formation of blackheads. These procedures require an individualized medical consultation.
Analyze an anti-blackhead product on your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about blackheads
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Our guides pores & imperfections
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. In the event of pregnancy, skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.