Silicones in cosmetics - danger or conventional wisdom? according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.

Silicones are polymers of silicon and oxygen, considered safe and low in toxicity. In skincare products, they improve texture, visually smooth the skin and limit water loss thanks to their occlusive effect. They have no deep action, but facilitate application. Reactions are rare; however, skins prone to acne, rosacea or milia may prefer to avoid them and cleanse their skin thoroughly.

FamilySilicon polymers

RoleTexture ingredient, without deep action

ProfileSafe for all skin types except acne / rosacea / milia

The facts

Widespread, and controversial

Among the thousands of cosmetic ingredients, silicone is one of the most widespread and controversial. Often perceived as artificial, chemical or even harmful, it raises many questions. Why is it present in so many products? Silicone is a polymer derived from natural compounds, made up of silicon and oxygen atoms, often combined with carbon or hydrogen, and renowned for its low toxicity and resistance to heat. Its occlusive properties, versatility and availability explain its widespread presence; unlike other synthetic components, it does not require chemical additions to remain stable.

Role in the formula

What are they for? silicones

Silicones have no direct active effect on the skin, but they do provide several textural and comfort benefits.

Improve texture

They provide a sensation of softness and visually smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles - an optical effect, for the time of application.

Preserve moisture

They form a protective film that limits transepidermal water loss, and can enhance the comfort of other ingredients in the formula.

Helps healing

Silicone gels have been documented to improve the appearance of scars, a well-established use in dermatology.

Ease of application

They improve product consistency and spreadability.

The vexing question

Silicones are they dangerous?

Despite their reputation, silicones are generally considered safe. Negative reactions are rare, except in the case of known allergies. However, they can be a problem for certain skin types: in cases of rosacea, acne, sensitive skin or a tendency to milia, it's best to limit their use, as their occlusive effect can keep pores clogged if the skin is poorly cleansed. Deep cleansing is essential to remove them properly. Note also that silicone at the start of a routine (in a serum, for example) can slightly hinder absorption of skincare products applied afterwards.

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Recognizing silicone on a label - On an INCI list, silicones often end with «-cone», «-conol», «-siloxane» or «-silanol»: dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol, etc. The earlier they appear on the list, the higher their concentration. The earlier they appear in the list, the higher their concentration.

BeautyDecoded's opinion

Or poison, nor miracle ingredient

A useful and safe textural ingredient

Silicone is neither the poison it's sometimes described as, nor an active ingredient with profound virtues: it's a texturizing ingredient, useful and safe for most skin types, provided you clean your skin thoroughly.

Acne-prone, sensitive or milia-prone skin may prefer silicone-free formulas, which are now widely available. The most important thing is to choose products suited to your skin, and to seek professional advice if in doubt.

Further information

Locate silicones in your daily care.

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Frequently asked questions

Your questions about silicones

Do silicones clog pores?

Not directly: silicones are not comedogenic in themselves. But their occlusive effect can trap sebum and impurities if the skin is poorly cleansed, which can maintain imperfections in acne-prone skin. Good make-up removal is generally enough to avoid this problem.

Should I avoid silicones?

Not for most people: they are safe and enhance the comfort of the products. Acne-prone, sensitive, rosaceous or milia-prone skin may prefer to avoid them as a precaution. It's all a question of skin profile and personal preference.

Do silicones prevent active ingredients from penetrating?

A silicone applied at the end of the routine (in a cream) seals in the skincare products without causing any problems. On the other hand, in a product applied at the beginning of a routine, its slight occlusive effect can hinder absorption of subsequent skincare products: in this case, it's best to apply it after your active serums.

How to recognize a silicone-free product?

Check the INCI list: the absence of «-cone», «-siloxane», «-conol» or «-silanol» indicates a silicone-free product. Many marquess also state «silicone-free» on the packaging.

Further information

Others associated guides

Guide

Dr Sylvain DavidPlastic and aesthetic surgeon - Founder of BeautyDecoded

Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. Silicones are texture ingredients considered safe and non-toxic for most skin types, except for known allergies. Their occlusive effect can keep pores clogged on poorly cleansed skin: careful cleansing is recommended. Acne-prone, rosaceous, sensitive or milia-prone skin may prefer silicone-free formulas. In case of skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended.