Comedogenic ingredients - the truth (and conventional wisdom) according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
A comedogenic ingredient clogs the pilosebaceous follicle and promotes blackheads and pimples. But comedogenicity is not absolute: it depends on the concentration, the overall formula and your skin type. Oils like coconut (index 4) clog pores, while jojoba or squalane (0-1) are safe. A well-balanced formula is more important than a single ingredient.
When the culprit is your cream
A perfect anti-acne routine, but pimples that keep coming back? The culprit may be the cream, SPF or even serum: a comedogenic ingredient that silently clogs pores. What's worse, these products are often sold as «for oily skin» or «non-comedogenic», even though they contain coconut oil (index 4/5) or cocoa butter. A comedogenic ingredient is one capable of obstructing the pilosebaceous follicle, promoting microcomedones, blackheads or pimples.
Concentration
The quantity of the ingredient in the product. At the bottom of the INCI list, it is often negligible.
The overall formula
Emulsion, texture, water/fat ratio and other formula ingredients.
Your skin type
Tolerance is individual, and also depends on the area of application.
Testing on rabbit ears
Historically, comedogenicity tests have been carried out under conditions that do not reflect actual use: on rabbit ears (far more sensitive than human skin), with ingredients applied pure (at 100 %), and without taking into account the final formulation.
As a result, many ingredients are unjustly demonized, driving consumers to eliminate products that are nevertheless excellent and safe. Comedogenicity is not an absolute, black-or-white property: it must always be read in the context of the formula and the skin.
The comedogenicity
The researchers ranked hundreds of ingredients according to their comedogenic index, from 0 (no risk) to 5 (highly comedogenic).
No risk
Compatible with all skin types.
Low risk
Generally OK, except for very reactive skin.
Moderate risk
Avoid for oily or acne-prone skin.
High risk
Highly comedogenic, avoid for acne-prone skin.
The ingredients the most comedogenic
Scores high
Isopropyl Myristate - Isopropyl Palmitate - Myristyl Myristate - Laureth-4 - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (which irritates the skin and triggers inflammation that can lead to blackheads). These are the first to watch out for in the case of oily or acne-prone skin.
Scores moderate
Coconut Oil - Cocoa Butter - Wheat Germ Oil - Lanolin - Soybean Oil. To be considered according to skin profile and their place in the formula.
Vegetable oils : «Oil = comedogenic» is false
It all depends on the chemical structure of the oil, not on the fact that it's an oil.
Jojoba oil
Composition close to human sebum, excellent tolerance.
Squalane
Stable and non-occlusive.
Coconut oil
Large molecule, remains on the surface and clogs pores.
Who is really concerned?
Tolerance to comedogenic ingredients is individual and depends on skin type.
At-risk skin
Acne-prone, oily or combination skin, or skin prone to microcysts: these are the profiles where an index 3-5 can pose a problem.
Tolerant skin
Very dry skin (lacking lipids) and mature skin: pores not too dilated, low sebum flow, a 3-4 index is fine.
Under drying treatment
Skin on oral retinoids sometimes needs more occlusive ingredients to restore the skin barrier.
The overall formula premium over isolated ingredients
An ingredient classified as comedogenic can be perfectly harmless if it is present in low concentration (at the bottom of the INCI list, its quantity is negligible), if it is integrated into a well-formulated emulsion (light texture, balanced water/fat ratio), or if it is combined with keratolytic active ingredients such as’salicylic acid or the niacinamide, to prevent obstruction.
No ingredients universally comedogenic
You can check your products manually: download a list of comedogenic ingredients, read the INCI of each product, check each ingredient, evaluate its position in the formula (hence its concentration) and analyze the water/fat ratio. It's doable, but time-consuming and tedious for an entire bathroom. The BeautyDecoded application automates this work: identifying and indexing comedogenic ingredients, the formula's aqueous/fat ratio, estimated concentration according to position in the INCI, compatibility with skin type, and opinions from people with similar skin.
There are no universally comedogenic ingredients. There are ingredients that are unsuitable for certain skin types, in certain contexts and in certain concentrations.
Identify comedogenic ingredients in your products.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about comedogenic ingredients
Is coconut oil comedogenic?
«Is »non-comedogenic" on the label reliable?
Do all oils clog pores?
Is a comedogenic ingredient necessarily to be avoided?
Others associated guides
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The comedogenic index is a relative indication, derived from old tests often carried out on pure ingredients: it does not prejudge the behavior of an ingredient in a finished formula or on a given skin. Tolerance depends on concentration, overall formula and skin type. The «non-comedogenic» claim is not strictly regulated. In the event of persistent acne or skin pathology, dermatological advice is recommended.