Tranexamic acid - the anti-spot active ingredient that respects the skin according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Tranexamic acid is a lysine derivative that has become the active ingredient of choice against hyperpigmentation. It regulates melanin production, attenuates melasma, brown spots and post-acne scars, and also acts on redness (rosacea, couperose) thanks to its vasoconstrictive and anti-inflammatory action. Well tolerated and non-photosensitizing, it is used at a concentration of 2 to 5 %, ideally combined with niacinamide or vitamin C.
A spot remover skin-friendly
Melasma, brown spots, acne scars, photoaging: pigmentary disorders are multifactorial and difficult to correct, between ineffective or overly aggressive treatments. Tranexamic acid, long relegated to second place, is back in the spotlight as an effective active ingredient that respects skin sensitivity.
Discovery, origin and action
Tranexamic acid is derived from lysine, an essential amino acid found in skin proteins such as keratin. Discovered in the 60s by Japanese researchers Shosuke and Utako Okamoto, it was originally intended to reduce obstetric hemorrhage. Thanks to the CRASH-2 study in 2010, it is now enjoying a second life in traumatology, followed by a WHO recommendation in 2011: in medicine, it is used to limit bleeding during operations.
Its cosmetic value was discovered by chance in the 1970s by Dr. Nijo Sadako: treating a patient's urticaria with oral tranexamic acid, he noticed a reduction in hyperpigmentation. This side effect paved the way for numerous studies. On melasma, a study showed that a 5 % solution was as effective as a 3 % hydroquinone, with fewer side effects.
The 4 actions of tranexamic acid
Against hyperpigmentation
It regulates tyrosinase (melanin enzyme) and blocks pigment transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. On melasma, it acts on three fronts: melanin, neovascularization and mast cells - reduced after eight weeks. See the melasma.
Against redness
Interesting option for rosacea and rosacea (vascular disorder + inflammation). A Greek study on 20 rosacea patients, 4 months topical, shows significant improvements - vasoconstrictive and anti-inflammatory potential.
Improved wound healing
It prevents and improves pathological scarring. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is said to be reduced because it blocks the transfer of melanin to the keratinocytes involved in skin reconstruction.
Promising anti-aging action
A 2016 experiment (oral) and a Japanese study on mice suggest increased fibroblast proliferation and reduced wrinkles. Results to be confirmed in humans.
Which serums to tranexamic acid ?
Here are three representative tranexamic acid serums, with BeautyDecoded scores and user feedback. For a full comparison, see the selection of best tranexamic acid serums.
Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4%
Serum combining 4 % of tranexamic acid and 10 % of niacinamide, the anti-spot combination par excellence, with arbutin too. Good stain scores (85) and redness (91,8). Sensitive skin score +0.65 - adapted. Effective on melasma, dark spots and redness without aggression according to feedback; the high dose of niacinamide (10 %) may be a little too much for very reactive skin.
Nooance Clarifying Anti-Redness Care
Clarifying serum combining tranexamic acid, azelaic acid and niacinamide, the best for spots (score 95,2) and redness (93,5) of the selection, and also the most commented on (21 reviews). Sensitive skin score -2.0 - unsuitable, to be introduced gradually. Soothes redness and leaves skin velvety soft, according to numerous feedbacks; some users expected more from couperose.
Vichy Liftactiv Sérum B3 (tranexamic + niacinamide)
Parapharmacy serum combining tranexamic acid and niacinamide (vitamin B3), specifically targeted at brown spots (score spots 95,2), easily found in pharmacies. Fragrance-free. Sensitive skin score -1.5 - slight caution. Fast, long-term spot reduction and very good tolerance according to feedback.
How to use it
It is available as a serum, cream or lotion. It is ideal on its own or as a complement to other anti-dark spot active ingredients such as niacinamide or the vitamin C, which maximize the effectiveness of the routine. The optimal concentration for the lightening effect is between 2 and 5 %, once or twice a day. This active ingredient is well tolerated and non-photosensitizing, but beyond the recommended doses, irritation and redness may appear: for fragile or sensitized skin, start gradually, once a day.
Find the right tranexamic acid for your skin profile.
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Your questions about tranexamic acid
Is tranexamic acid effective against melasma?
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For go further
- Tranexamic Acid Inhibits Angiogenesis and Melanogenesis in Vitro by Targeting VEGF Receptors (medsci.org)
- A Randomized Controlled Study Comparing the Efficacy of Topical 5% Tranexamic Acid Solution versus 3% Hydroquinone Cream in Melasma (researchgate.net)
- Topical 5% tranexamic acid with 30% glycolic acid peel: an useful combination for accelerating the improvement in melasma (PubMed)
- A Split Face Comparative Study of Microneedling with Tranexamic Acid versus Vitamin C in the Treatment of Melasma (Semantic Scholar)
- The amelioration effect of tranexamic acid in wrinkles induced by skin dryness (PubMed)
- Intradermal tranexamic acid microinjections: a novel treatment option for erythematotelangiectatic rosacea (PubMed)
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. Tranexamic acid is well tolerated and non-photosensitizing, but above the recommended doses (2 to 5 %) irritation may occur: a gradual introduction is recommended for sensitive skin. Daily SPF 50 sun protection remains essential. In cases of melasma, rosacea or other skin disorders, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.