Tranexamic acid: Shedding light on its effects in cosmetics
Tranexamic acidincreasingly prized for its lightening properties, remains little-known to the general public. But what are its real benefits and potential side effects in cosmetics? Find out all you need to know about this intriguing active ingredient.
Properties of tranexamic acid :
Known mainly for its anti-hemorrhagic properties in medicine, tranexamic acid has earned its credentials thanks to its inclusion on the World Health Organization's list of essential medicines. Its structure is reminiscent of lysine, an essential amino acid for the body.
A new era in cosmetics:
It's only in the last decade or so that tranexamic acid has found its place in the world of cosmetics. It has been proven to regulate pigmentation by preventing the release of certain inflammatory mediators that trigger melanogenesis. It is particularly effective in treating various types of hyperpigmentation, whether caused by hormonal changes, repeated sun exposure or skin inflammation.
The question of side effects:
Although promising, tranexamic acid requires particular attention when used in cosmetics. To have a noticeable effect on pigmentation spots, its concentration in a product needs to be between 2 and 5%. It should be noted that increasing this concentration does not necessarily enhance its efficacy, but may lead to irritation.
A 2014 study highlighted certain side effects associated with its external use. The most common are drier skin, irritation and possible increased desquamation. It is therefore recommended to apply a moisturizer after use.
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Application frequency and precautions :
The frequency of application depends on skin tolerance. In general, for skin that accepts this molecule well, a treatment containing tranexamic acid can be applied twice a day. However, for more sensitive skin, it is preferable to start with a daily application. Initial redness does not necessarily mean intolerance, but in the event of severe irritation or unpleasant sensations, it is imperative to discontinue use.
So, tranexamic acid offers great prospects in the world of cosmetics, but like any active ingredient, it needs to be used with discernment and caution.
Other cosmetic active ingredients against blemishes
Vitamin C is also widely recognized for its brightening properties, while protecting the skin from free radical damage.
Kojic acid is another active ingredient that inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production.
Azelaic acidderived from wheat, rye and barley grains, effectively reduces hyperpigmentation by selectively targeting overactive melanocytes.
Alpha arbutin which I mentioned in a previous article!
Finally, retinola form of vitamin A, is often used for its ability to accelerate cell renewal, helping to fade pigmentation spots while improving skin texture. It is essential to choose the active ingredient best suited to your skin, and always combine their use with effective sun protection, as the skin can become more sensitive to the sun when these active ingredients are used.