Sensitive skin - ingredients to avoid and proper care according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Sensitive skin reacts easily (redness, tightness, tingling). We must first distinguish between sensitive skin, which is genetic and long-lasting, and sensitized skin, which has become reactive and reversible. In both cases, we avoid five families of irritating ingredients (alcohol, essential oils, sulfates, old chemical filters, perfume) and prefer soothing, minimalist skincare products. The rule: «less but better».
Sensitive skin or sensitized ?
Sensitive skin is not a skin type, like oily or dry skin: it's a condition that can be superimposed on your skin's nature. Oily skin, for example, is perfectly capable of developing sensitivity.
Sensitive (genetic)
Linked to vascular weakness or a genetic peculiarity. It's rare, it can't be «cured», but it can be managed.
Sensitized (acquired)
Skin has become reactive to the environment (wind, sun, pollution, hard water), too many harsh cosmetics, alcohol, tobacco, stress, hormones.
If your skin is sensitized and not genetically sensitive, you can restore your skin barrier simply by avoiding irritating ingredients. It's reversible.
Visit 5 families of irritating ingredients
These ingredients unnecessarily weaken the skin barrier. Learn to spot them on the INCI label - the earlier an ingredient appears on the list, the more concentrated it is.
Drying alcohol
Alcohol Denat, Ethanol, Isopropyl Alcohol, SD Alcohol 40Used for fluid textures and to penetrate certain active ingredients, it acts as a solvent that dissolves sealing lipids: dehydration and easier entry for irritants.
Essential oils
Mentha Piperita, Lavandula, Citrus Limon, Melaleuca AlternifoliaPrized in organic cosmetics, citrus oils are extremely allergenic. Citrus oils are also photosensitizing and can cause sun spots.
Sulfates
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)Foaming agents that strip away the hydrolipidic film. The skin reacts by producing more sebum (rebound effect): a vicious circle for oily skin, a catastrophe for dry skin.
Old chemical solar filters
Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Homosalate, Octinoxate, OxybenzoneUnstable (Avobenzone degrades in an hour), the leading cause of burning eyes, and some are suspected endocrine disruptors.
Fragrance & allergens
Parfum / Fragrance, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol«Perfume» conceals a mixture of hundreds of unlisted molecules. It's the number-one cause of skin reactions and sustains invisible micro-inflammation.
This guide is not intended for useful« assets»
Not to be confused with the «unnecessary» irritants above: some powerful active ingredients are not included in this list, as they have a beneficial biological action. They can irritate if misused - all the more reason to introduce them gradually.
«Less, but better "
The presence of one of these ingredients does not make a product «dangerous» in the legal sense, but it does make it counter-productive for skin in distress (acne, rosacea, eczema, sensitized skin). The aim is not to prohibit, but to understand: healthy, resilient skin may tolerate a little perfume or alcohol, while skin with an altered barrier needs absolute neutrality.
You can read each INCI label by hand, or use the BeautyDecoded application, which automatically locates the families of irritating ingredients, their position in the formula (and therefore their concentration) and indicates whether the product is suitable for your skin profile.
Care tailored to sensitive skins
A selection of products with soothing formulas, highly rated by users for their tolerance, with a positive sensitive skin score according to the Dr David Rule.
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5
Repairing, soothing balm with panthenol, without harsh fragrance, the benchmark for calming irritated or sensitized skin. Sensitive skin score +1,25, redness 68. Soothes, repairs and comforts, according to numerous feedbacks, with excellent value for money. It's an occlusive cream: apply a thin layer to the face or in the evening to avoid pimples on combination to oily skin.
Aroma-Zone Aloe Vera Native Gel
Native aloe vera gel with a very simple formula, moisturizing and soothing, ideal for a minimalist routine on reactive skin. Sensitive skin score +1,0. Moisturizes and soothes without weighing it down, perfect with a vegetable oil on top; multi-purpose (face, hair, after a light burn). A neutral skincare product, welcome when you want to limit the use of ingredients.
Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule
Ampoule serum with centella asiatica, the benchmark soothing active ingredient for sensitive skin prone to redness. Sensitive skin score +0,5, redness 68. Gentle, soothing and moisturizing without weighing down, perfect for damaged skin. Some users find it insufficiently moisturizing on its own: superimpose with a cream on very dry skin.
Nooance Youth Serum 2% Copper Peptide
Anti-aging serum with copper peptides, both effective and very well tolerated, a gentle alternative to retinol for sensitive skin. Scores sensitive skin +1,25 and anti-aging 91,8. Fluid texture that penetrates quickly and provides comfort, according to many feedbacks, formidable coupled with retinol for those who tolerate it; some reviews consider it more preventive than active and a little expensive.
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF50+ - The best of both worlds
An SPF50+ sunscreen with a fluid, moisturizing texture, no greasy finish or white streaks, that doesn't sting the eyes. Sensitive skin score +0,5. Lightweight and fast-penetrating, according to numerous feedbacks, a good make-up base, ideal for everyday use. A well-tolerated sunscreen, preferable to older, often irritating chemical filters.
Identify irritating ingredients on your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application automatically identifies irritating ingredient families, their concentration in the formula, and indicates whether a product is suitable for your skin type - based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about sensitive skin
How do I know if I have sensitive skin?
Is perfume really irritating?
Should alcohol be banned from all products?
How do you spot these ingredients on a label?
Are retinol and vitamin C irritants to be avoided?
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. In the event of persistent redness, rosacea, eczema or any doubt, a dermatological opinion is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.