Dry skin - how to care for it according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Dry skin lacks oil: it produces too little sebum and is deficient in lipids, resulting in water loss, tightness and a dull complexion. We recommend gentle, sulfate-free cleansing, lotions and creams rich in humectants and ceramides, gentle, limited exfoliation and daily sun protection. The aim: to restore the cutaneous barrier and retain water.
Signs of dry skin
Dry skin can be recognized by several signs: fine dehydration lines, a dull complexion, a rough feel to the touch, flaking and, at the extreme, cracks. It can also feel tight and itchy (pruritus).
Dry skin or dehydrated ?
It's easy to confuse the two. The simple rule: dry skin lacks oil, dehydrated skin lacks water. Dry skin is a skin type, just like oily or combination skin; dehydration, on the other hand, is temporary and can affect all skin types.
Dry skin doesn't produce enough sebum and has a defect in intercellular lipids (between the keratinocytes of the stratum corneum): the result is insensible water loss, small pores, few imperfections, but a lack of radiance and earlier wrinkles. Dehydrated skin can be oily or combination, dehydrated by the environment or unsuitable skin care products: the skin feels tight and glows, as dehydration leads to overproduction of sebum. This is where humectants (glycerine, NMF, hyaluronic acid) come into their own.
Causes and aggravating factors
Age
Over time, skin loses elasticity and retains less water; this phenomenon begins in the mid-thirties.
The sun
UV rays damage the protective barrier and destroy collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin.
The climate
In winter, the cold puts the sebaceous glands to rest, and dry air (reinforced by heating) worsens dryness.
Hot showers
Prolonged hot baths and showers increase skin permeability.
Certain cosmetics
Aggressive cleansers, but also retinol and exfoliants in the wrong dosage.
The good ones moisturizing creams, day and night
The fundamental step: morning and evening, after cleansing, apply a suitable cream to reinforce the cutaneous barrier and retain water. Look for rich textures, with occlusives (shea butter, oils) and ceramides. Once a week, a nourishing mask completes the treatment.
Eucerin Aquaphor Repair Balm
Very dry areas - essential in winter
Repairing occlusive balm, ideal for very dry areas: lips, hands, heels, elbows, and repairing the skin barrier. Sensitive skin score +2.25 - very well tolerated. To be reserved for targeted areas and the body rather than the whole face, as some feedbacks report pimples with wide facial application.
CeraVe Moisturizing Balm
Very rich - body & dry areas
A very rich balm with ceramides, which forms a protective film without sticking, perfect for the body and dry areas in winter. Sensitive skin score +0.6 - adapted. Profile dry skin to 91. Many of our customers consider it too rich for the face (shiny effect, even reactions): reserve a thin layer for the body or very dry skin.
Avoid cleaning products to sulfates
Sulfates (SLS, SLES), often found in foaming cleansers, are aggressive surfactants: they eliminate sebum but also damage intercellular lipids and keratin, drying and sensitizing the skin. Instead, use a cleansing oil, milk or balm, followed by a gentle soap-free cleanser. Do not rub, avoid hot water and rinse well.
Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm
1st step double cleaning - oil base
Make-up-removing balm that melts into oil then emulsifies with water, removing make-up and sunscreen without leaving a greasy finish. Sensitive skin score 0 - suitable. Ideal as a first step in the double cleansing of dry skin. Very effective according to feedback, the main complaint being its price and pot format.
Caudalie Vinoclean Cleansing Oil
Gently removes make-up - an affordable alternative
Cleansing oil that gently removes make-up, pollution and sunscreen as the first step in evening cleansing. Sensitive skin score +0.5 - adapted. Does not sting the eyes and rinses off very well according to feedback, leaving skin soft. A good, affordable alternative to Korean cleansing oils.
A moisturizing lotion after cleaning
Applied just after cleansing, lotion prevents skin dehydration and enables humectants to capture water still present on the surface. If skin is irritated, use soothing active ingredients (aloe vera, centella, allantoin, niacinamide) and rich formulas.
Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion (rich)
Intense hydration - cleavage texture
Japanese hyaluronic acid lotion in a rich version, with a thick texture that intensely moisturizes after cleansing. Sensitive skin score -0.6 - slight caution. Profile dry skin to 91. Very moisturizing according to feedback, its slightly sticky texture is not to everyone's taste; some mature skins find it insufficient on its own and layer it on top.
Exfoliate less, but better
Exfoliation stimulates collagen and elastin, but if it becomes chronic, it worsens dryness and accelerates ageing. Dry skins don't give up exfoliation: they do it less and better, with an AHA that exfoliates while moisturizing, like lactic acid. Cream: urea and oatmeal in the morning, ceramides in the evening.
The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA
AHA moisturizer - start in 5%
Lactic acid scrub 10 % with hyaluronic acid: gently exfoliates while moisturizing, the AHA of choice for dry skin. Sensitive skin score -3.0 - unsuitable 10 %, to be started every third evening (a 5 % version is available for beginners). According to feedback, it leaves skin feeling soft and clear, and should always be used in conjunction with SPF.
A sun protection adapted
We want a sun cream that moisturizes, with a fairly rich formula, without excess silica (which absorbs surface oil). An SPF 50 with sufficient moisturizing agents. Daily protection remains the first line of prevention against ageing.
Beauty of Joseon Sun Relief Aqua-fresh SPF50+
Imperceptible city sun protection - day cream effect
SPF50+ sunscreen with a watery, moisturizing and imperceptible texture, with no sticky finish or white film. Sensitive skin score +0.75 - adapted, Including reactive skin. Niacinamide-free version available for those who cannot tolerate it. Popular as a city sunscreen that can be forgotten on the skin, with a day cream effect.
The key role of ceramides
Intercellular lipids are the «cement» between keratinocytes, the «building blocks» of the skin barrier. They are made up of cholesterol (25 %), fatty acids (15 %) and, above all, ceramides (50 %). A ceramide deficiency aggravates dryness, as confirmed by numerous studies. If your routine is long but the skin remains dehydrated, the solution is often to incorporate more products with ceramides, especially as their levels in the skin decrease by around 30 % with age.
Remember to eat a diet rich in fruit and vegetables, protect your skin from the sun and adapt your routine to the seasons: ultra-rich, occlusive skincare in winter, basic skincare plus sunscreen in summer. Your body deserves the same attention: limit hot showers, exfoliate gently and moisturize after every shower.
Analyze a dry skin care product on your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about dry skin
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Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. In the event of pregnancy, skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.