Azelaic acid - the underestimated multifunctional asset according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Azelaic acid is a multifunctional active ingredient that acts on acne, pigmentation spots, redness, blackheads and texture. Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, keratinocyte and melanin regulator, it offers benefits similar to those of exfoliating acids, but is much less irritating. Well tolerated, even by sensitive skin, it can be used at 10-15 % and combines very well with retinol and exfoliating acids.
The 5 actions of azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is an underrated and underused cosmetic ingredient. Yet it solves many skin problems: acne, redness, spots, blackheads, texture. Its mechanisms are not all fully understood, but we do know that it «brings order» to cells that have become uncontrollable, whether they produce too much pigment (melasma) or over-react to inflammation (acne, rosacea). Five actions are agreed upon:
Antibacterial
It acts on Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, making it effective against acne.
Regulation of keratinocytes
It normalizes their proliferation on the surface: the benefits of exfoliating acids, but less irritating. Different mechanisms, so it combines very well with acids for texture and pores.
Lipid reduction
It helps lysis of surface lipids and blackheads, appreciated by combination to oily skin.
Anti-stain action
It acts on tyrosinase (melanin enzyme), reduces sun spots and evens skin tone.
Anti-inflammatory & antioxidant
Invaluable for skin prone to redness and sensitive skin.
A discovery incidental
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from the fermentation of cereals (wheat, barley, rye), and also produced on the skin surface by yeast. In fact, this is what led to its discovery.
In the late 70s, doctors noticed that a yeast, Malassezia furfur, was creating white spots by destroying pigments in the areas where it was spreading. They realized that it produced azelaic acid, studied it and discovered its impressive depigmenting properties. Since then, interest in this active ingredient has grown steadily.
Concentration and formulation
Products with 10 % azelaic acid are readily available, but the formulation is complex: it comes in powder form, which is difficult to formulate at high concentration. This has two consequences. Firstly, products tend to lint (part of the powder remains on the surface after absorption); the intensity depends on the formulation. Secondly, like all powder ingredients, it matifies the skin after application.
Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-spot, anti-redness, unifying, pore-enhancing: why is such an active ingredient still so rare in cosmetics? No clear answer. Perhaps because it's difficult to formulate, or because marketing relies on «best-selling» actives like hyaluronic acid, or simply because its multiple benefits remain unknown - a question that deserves to be put to the marquess that don't offer it.
Which products to azelaic acid ?
Here are three representative azelaic acid products, with BeautyDecoded scores and user feedback. For a full comparison, see the selection of best azelaic acid serums.
Isispharma Metroruboril A.Z (azelaic acid 15%)
Parapharmacy cream with 15 % azelaic acid, enriched with niacinamide, liquorice and soothing ingredients, specially designed for rosacea and skin prone to redness (excellent redness score at 93,5). Thick texture. Sensitive skin score -1.0 - slight caution. Clearly reduces rosacea and diminishes blemishes according to numerous feedbacks; a little greasy and can fluff up, not necessarily to be used every day.
Aroma-Zone Azelaic Acid Serum 10%
Serum with 10 % azelaic acid, easy-to-integrate format at a low price, for blemishes and blackheads (blemish score) 90,1). Suitable for combination to oily skin. Sensitive skin score -0.5 - slight caution, but well tolerated. Fast results on blackheads, blackheads and radiance, according to many loyal customers.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
The accessible, minimalist formula with 10 % azelaic acid, with little irritation, is suitable even for sensitive skin (score sensitive skin). 0 - suitable). Good redness score (93,5). Reduces pimples and redness, according to feedback; its major flaw, mentioned by almost all reviews, is the marked fluffing, accentuated when combined with other products, to be applied alone and in a thin layer.
How to use it in its routine
Azelaic acid is easy to integrate, as it is not very irritating. If initially tingling, start every other day; if well tolerated, use daily. Apply after cleansing and lotion, before sunscreen or moisturizer.
Why does it reduce pimples? When keratinocyte proliferation gets out of control, it creates hyperkeratinization: dull complexion, accumulation of dead cells, altered pores and blackheads. Rather than a brutal exfoliation (glycolic or lactic acid), azelaic acid forces cells to regulate their development and diminishes hyperkeratinization. Dead cells accumulate less in pores, improving their appearance and reducing the appearance of pimples.
Find the right azelaic acid for your skin profile.
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Your questions about azelaic acid
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Suitable for sensitive skin and rosacea?
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Others associated guides
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. Azelaic acid is generally well tolerated, but can cause tingling, burning or itching, especially at high concentrations or on sensitive skin: a gradual introduction is recommended. In cases of rosacea or persistent acne, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.