Retinol - the complete guide to the benchmark anti-aging active ingredient according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and has been the best-documented anti-aging active ingredient for over 25 years. It stimulates collagen, accelerates cell renewal and reduces wrinkles, spots and acne. Its drawback: it is irritating and requires a tolerance period. The keys: apply to dry skin, start every second or third evening, moisturize well, avoid other irritating active ingredients at first, and use SPF 50 every morning.
How does it work? retinol ?
Vitamin A increases the production of new cells and shortens the skin's regeneration cycle (normally 30 days). This accelerated regeneration naturally exfoliates the surface layer of the epidermis: this is the keratolytic action, which eliminates dead cells, unclogs pores, regulates sebum and acts on the bacteria responsible for acne.
But retinol isn't just an exfoliant: it's above all an anti-aging active ingredient that acts deep within the dermis, stimulating the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. It reduces wrinkles and improves texture by thickening the dermis. Initially, only the epidermis is refined, through the exfoliation of dead cells: this is the tolerance phase, during which the skin may redden and become irritated. Retinol also regulates melanocyte activity, curbing the hyperproduction of melanin: it is therefore effective against blemishes and post-acne hyperpigmentation.
7 rules for using retinol like a pro
On dry skin
On damp skin, it penetrates too deeply and irritates. Wait 2 to 3 minutes after cleansing.
Gradually
One evening out of two or three at first, then adapt. Even every other night is very effective over time.
The size of a pea
For the whole face. Too much product only increases the risk of irritation.
Moisturize well
Retinol then cream, often richer. Sensitive skin: sandwich method (cream, retinol, cream).
No other irritants
No acids or vitamin C during tolerance. Avoid alcohol, essential oils and allergens.
SPF 50 in the morning
Retinoids make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Sun protection is non-negotiable.
Uniformly
Do not mix retinol with cream in a hurry, as this may result in poor distribution.
If the skin dries out, apply a richer cream and leave for a few days. In the case of severe irritation, stop using all irritating active ingredients and follow a repair phase of 10 to 15 days before resuming with the sandwich method. If all goes well, first increase the frequency, then the dosage. If there is no improvement after 12 weeks (excluding the tolerance phase), change products. Retinol is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding, or if you cannot protect yourself from the sun.
The various retinoids
There are several forms of vitamin A, which can be confusing. From the most potent to the mildest, the number of transformations required determines both efficacy and irritant potential.
Retinoic acid
No transformation necessary: the most powerful, but also the one with the most side effects.
Retinal (retinaldehyde)
Requires only one transformation to become active: the fastest cosmetic form.
Retinol
The benchmark in cosmetics, with the right balance between efficacy and tolerance.
Retinol esters
Not very effective. Their advantage: as a complement, for ultra-sensitive skin or the eye contour area.
At what age to start retinol ?
From the age of 25: this is when the cell regeneration cycle lengthens and collagen production begins to decline. In the case of severe acne, a dermatologist may prescribe retinoic acid treatment before the age of 25. The first effects are fully visible after 2 to 4 months, but in aesthetic terms, prevention is better than cure. To adapt the treatment to your age group, see the following guides care 30 years, 40 years old and 50 years.
Two associations are particularly useful. The niacinamide (vitamin B3) helps protect the skin from the side effects of retinol by boosting ceramide production: ideal for sensitive skin. L’hyaluronic acid ensures good hydration, invaluable when the acceleration of the cell cycle dries out the skin.
Which retinol products choose ?
For retinol cosmetics, the key criterion is concentration. Here's a staggered selection, from initiation to the most potent form, with BeautyDecoded scores and user feedback. Choose according to your experience: always start with a low concentration.
Geek & Gorgeous A-Game 5 - Retinal 0.05% (initiation)
Introductory concentration - first step
The ideal start-up concentration: retinal 0.05 %, a faster-acting form of vitamin A than retinol, in a gentle dose to start without rushing the skin. The best-rated of the selection (4,93). Sensitive skin score -1.45 - slight caution, Starting two evenings a week. Well-tolerated according to many feedbacks, it's often the first step in a retinoid journey; some skins react, hence the gradual introduction and SPF.
Nooance Soin Concentré Nuit - Rétinol 0,3% (beginner)
Retinol pure beginner - airless
Night cream with retinol 0.3 %, the reference concentration for starting out with pure retinol, in airless packaging that preserves the active ingredient. Anti-aging score 88,4. Sensitive skin score -1.7 - slight caution, to be introduced every third evening. Low dosage, so not very irritating, and effective on mature skin according to many loyal customers; the cosmetic smell fades quickly, and the price is a little high.
The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion (intermediate)
Intermediate concentration - regulars
Retinal emulsion 0.2 %, intermediate concentration for skin already used to retinoids, affordable price and excellent anti-aging score (93,5). Sensitive skin score -2.85 - unsuitable, To be introduced every other evening. Fluid texture superior to many competitors according to feedback; it can dry out, so use with caution.
Paula's Choice Clinical 1% Retinol (confirmed)
Maximum concentration - confirmed skins
The highest concentration of the selection: a retinol 1 % enriched with peptides and liquorice, reserved for skin already well accustomed, with the best anti-aging score (95,2). Sensitive skin score -5.0 - not suitable for sensitive skin, never after exfoliating. Rapid results on wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, according to feedback; it can be very drying, and should be considered only after a full charge.
Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum Ginseng + Retinal (eye contour)
Contour area - combine with moisturizer
For the fragile eye contour area: a serum with ginseng and retinal, both moisturizing and anti-aging, that targets fine lines without being restricted to the initiated. Anti-aging score 90,1. Sensitive skin score -2.2 - unsuitable on this fine area, to be combined with a moisturizer. Effective on fine lines according to numerous feedbacks; retinal can dry out a little, to be coupled with a contour cream.
And retinoids on prescription ?
Adapalene (Differin) is a new-generation retinoic acid, highly effective against acne, and probably against spots and wrinkles. It is an active molecule (no transformation necessary) which requires a medical prescription, as it is teratogenic (contraindicated in pregnancy and breastfeeding).
Good candidates are people suffering from acne or wishing to treat wrinkles and blemishes that are already marked; for preventive use at the age of 20-30, cosmetic retinol remains more suitable. The decision should be made in consultation with your doctor.
Find the right retinol for your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about retinol
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Others associated guides
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. Retinol is introduced gradually, does not combine with other irritating active ingredients during the tolerance phase, and requires daily sun protection. It is not recommended during pregnancy or breast-feeding. Prescription retinoids (retinoic acid, adapalene) require medical advice. In case of skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before first use.