Sunscreen controversies
Filter controversies include accusations of endocrine disruption and coral bleaching. Let's take a look at these indispensable components of sun creams
Are sunscreens endocrine disruptors?
As for the risk of endocrine disruption, the one most talked about is oxybenzone, but there are others such as enzacamene, octinoxate, octorilene and homosalate. Of course, numerous in vitro and in vivo studies have been carried out, but it is very difficult to come up with a clear opinion on the subject, as the quantities assimilated through the skin are small. Nevertheless, a study published in 2020 showed that certain sunscreens such as avobenzone, octorilene, homosalate and oxybenzone were found in the blood of study participants, without concluding that they were dangerous. For the filters I mentioned earlier, are they suspected to be endocrine disruptors YES!
It's hard to say, given the current state of knowledge, but it's always best to make up your own mind by reading scientific articles.
Are sunscreens dangerous for corals?
The other controversy is that the filters are dangerous for corals, and two filters in particular have been incriminated: oxybenzone and octinoxate, both of which are banned in Hawaii. A 2008 study suggested using mineral filters to protect corals, but a study published in 2018 by the Monaco Scientific Center suggests that some organic filters would be relatively safe, but that zinc oxide would be harmful.
The nanoparticle problem
Mineral filters leave white traces, and to deal with this problem, cosmetics brands have started using smaller particles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, known as nano particles, to make the cream transparent. Nano particles are quite decried when it comes to food, but when it comes to creams, things are different. The problem with nano particles is that, because they are smaller, they can theoretically penetrate the skin better. Numerous studies have been carried out, and the overall results show that a very small quantity of zinc, in soluble form, can penetrate the epidermis, but these quantities are well below the normal levels of zinc present in the body. However, sunscreens containing nano particles are not permitted in spray products, as inhaling them could prove harmful. If you're worried about nano particles, check the ingredients list to see if they are labelled "nano".
Nanotechnologies applied to cosmetics promise exciting advances, but concerns persist about the widespread use of "nanocosmetics" for skin, hair, nail and lip care. In this article, we address the safety concerns associated with the use of nanoparticles in cosmetics, as identified by Indian researchers.
Concerns about nanoparticle safety
The use of nanoparticles in cosmetic products raises concerns due to their extremely small size, which enables them to penetrate skin structures, such as hair follicles, and eventually cross the skin barrier. We will examine the potential risks associated with this penetration, as well as the reasons why many cosmetics companies avoid promoting nanotechnologies because of these concerns.
Unintentional presence of nanoparticles in cosmetic products
It's important to note that nanoparticles are present in many of today's cosmetic products, even if this isn't always deliberate. We will explain how the manufacturing process of raw materials can lead to the unintentional creation of nanoparticles. For example, reducing the size of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to produce sunscreens is likely to produce nanoparticles. We'll also look at other examples, such as the use of mica or nano-sized fish scales to create sparkling effects in cosmetics.
The benefits and challenges of nanoparticles in cosmetics
Although nanoparticles raise safety concerns, they also have the potential to generate significant benefits. We will discuss their magnetic properties, which could enable chemotherapy agents to be specifically targeted to tumor sites, thus reducing exposure of the rest of the body. In addition, we will explore the possible uses of nanoparticles in cosmetic products to camouflage certain skin imperfections or to create interesting optical effects. However, we will highlight the challenges associated with ingredient control, nanoparticle size and their actual ability to penetrate the skin.
Conclusion: Nanoparticle-based nanocosmetics present both promising benefits and safety concerns. Further research is needed to ensure that these products meet the necessary safety standards before they can be confidently recommended by dermatologists and healthcare professionals. Nanoparticles have the potential to revolutionize the cosmetics industry, but it is crucial to ensure that they are used responsibly and without risk to consumers.
Isn't the sun the greatest danger of all?
I'd like to set the record straight: the sun is a proven carcinogen, and a third of all cancers in France are skin cancers. I can tell you all about this because I perform 5 to 6 skin cancer exereses every week. What's important to remember is that the sun is a major cause of cancer in France, and that sunscreens are an effective means of protecting against the sun. I think it's vital to use sunscreens because 80,000 skin cancers are diagnosed in France every year, even if we mustn't sweep under the carpet the potentially harmful effects of certain filters over the very long term. Numerous studies are underway to classify the various filters.