Skincare guide - BeautyDecoded

How to choose your sunscreen - the complete guide by a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.

A broad-spectrum SPF 50, with real UVA protection (UVA logo, PPD or PA++++). Whether you choose a chemical or mineral filter depends on your skin type. The best cream is the one with the right texture for you - because that's what you'll be applying every day.

ApproachIndependent cosmetic analysis
MethodVerdict Sensitivity - Dr David's rule
Selection8 SPF50 suncare products rated by BeautyDecoders

What protection really aim

You need protection that really covers both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays reach the deeper layers of the skin: they are responsible for premature aging of the dermis (solar elastosis) and play a role in the appearance of skin cancers. UVB rays attack the superficial layers of the skin, causing sunburn, tanning, hyperpigmentation and most skin cancers.

Visit SPF (Sun Protection Factor) indicates UVB protection - a minimum SPF 50 is recommended. Visit UVA logo guarantees UVA protection at least equal to a third of the SPF. The PPD (2 to 50) and the PA (1 to 4+) specify the UVA level: a PA++++ corresponds to the highest level of protection.

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Not all anti-UVA filters are created equal. Recent technologies such as Mexoryl 400 (La Roche-Posay's Anthelios UVMune 400 range) filter the sun's Long UVA (380 to 400 nm), A portion of the spectrum not covered by many older solar products.

To situate this step in the overall routine, see the guide facial care.

Filter chemical or mineral ?

A

Organic (chemical) filters

They absorb UV rays and transform them into heat. Texture often lighter, less whitening - suitable for acne-prone, oily or dark skin.

B

Mineral filters (physical)

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide: reflect and absorb part of the rays. Recommended for sensitive skin, melasma, children and babies. Disadvantage: white streaks, which a tinted version limits.

Editorial reading

If you have a bad reaction to a sunscreen, check the filters in the composition: some are known to cause irritation, such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, enzacamene and octocrylene. In terms of texture, filters known for their comfort include Tinosorb S, Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T150 and Mexoryl. Beware of fluid textures: there's a tendency not to apply enough, and not to achieve the protection indicated.

European and Asian solar or American ?

Screens French often use the same filters (octocrylene, avobenzone), which are sometimes irritating, and tend to be fairly moisturizing. Sunscreens Asian are designed for everyday use and layering: light textures, adapted to a humid climate, rather than for the beach. For United States, One of the only authorized organic anti-UVA filters is avobenzone, which is not very stable, and manufacturers have to stabilize it with other filters or antioxidants such as vitamin E.

The best sun creams by skin type

A selection of the best-rated SPF50s on the BeautyDecoded app, from Europe and Asia, with compatibility scores and a summary of reviews. The Sensitivity Verdict applies the Dr David Rule: a sensitive skin score below 0 indicates a potential risk of irritation; between -2 and -5, a product that is not suitable for sensitive skin.

The ratings and review excerpts come from users of the BeautyDecoded application. These reviews are not verified. Publication dates and details are available on each product sheet.

Fluid sunscreen for sensitive skin - Beauty of Joseon

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-fresh SPF50+ PA++++

★★★★★5,00/5(14 reviews)

Universal profile - niacinamide-free

A niacinamide-free version of the brand's star sunscreen, with an aqueous texture. Sensitive skin score +0.75 - adapted, including hyper-reactive skin. Universal profile (82 to 91 on all skin types). Feedback highlights an imperceptible finish and a day-cream effect, ideal for city sunscreens.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
82,6
Oily skin
82,6
Normal to dry
91
Normal to oily
91
Sensitive skin
0,75
✓ Verdict sensitivity Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +0.75).
User feedback (14 reviews - representative extracts)
★★★★★«The best city sunscreen I've tested, imperceptible and perfect for my hypersensitive skin.»
★★★★★«As I can't stand niacinamide, I opted for this version. Light texture, doesn't stick.»
★★★★★«Invisible, non-sticky sunscreen, perfect for sensitive skin. The day cream effect is an added bonus.»
★★★★★«A sunscreen that makes you forget you have it, really top notch.»

Verdict - A fluid sunscreen with a universal profile, imperceptible and well-tolerated (+0.75), ideal for city use and for skin that cannot tolerate niacinamide. 5.00/5 of 14 reviews.

Moisturizing sun serum - Skin1004

Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Sun Serum SPF50+

★★★★★4,91/5(22 reviews - solid base)

Glowy - avoid near the eyes

Sun protection serum with centella and hyaluronic acid, with a glowy finish. Sensitive skin score -0.75 - slight caution. Very versatile, moisturizing profile (84 to 91). Imperceptible and easy to apply over make-up according to feedback, with a risk of stinging if applied too close to the eyes.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
85,4
Oily skin
84
Normal to dry
91
Normal to oily
91
Sensitive skin
-0,75
⚠ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution (score: -0.75). Avoid the immediate eye area.
User feedback (22 reviews - representative extracts)
★★★★★«Fluid, does not whiten, does not fluff. Easy to apply makeup afterwards.»
★★★★★«Imperceptible after application. A must-have for city or winter sun.»
★★★★«Penetrates quickly, does not leave a greasy film. Caution, stings eyes if too close.»
★★★★«Super light, leaves a nice glowy finish, not greasy.»

Verdict - Versatile, moisturizing sun serum with glowy finish, excellent make-up base. Slight caution (-0.75) and should be kept away from the eyes. 4.91/5 out of 22 reviews.

Versatile daily suncare - Beauty of Joseon

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF50+ - The best of both worlds

★★★★½4,47/5(72 reviews - very solid base)

Most commented - optimal profile for oily skin

The most-reviewed sunscreen on the base (72 reviews), with a fluid texture that penetrates quickly. Sensitive skin score +0.5 - adapted. Oily skin score 91 - optimal profile. Very good make-up base according to feedback, slightly less mattifying than SVR Blur.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
64,4
Oily skin
91
Normal to dry
77
Normal to oily
91
Sensitive skin
0,5
✓ Verdict sensitivity Suitable for sensitive skin (score: +0.5).
User feedback (72 opinions - representative extracts)
★★★★★«Finally a light but effective sun cream, fast penetration, no greasy film, effective in summer.»
★★★★★«Fluid, does not sting the eyes, does not leave white marks, good make-up base.»
★★★★«Excellent, light and perfect in summer, good protection, ideal for the office.»
★★★★«Good sun cream but mattifies less than SVR's Blur.»

Verdict - The most popular sunscreen of the base (72 reviews), fluid and well tolerated (+0.5), optimal profile for oily skin (91). Good make-up base. 4,47/5.

Matifying suncare for oily skin - Eucerin

Eucerin Oil Control Dry-Touch Gel-Cream SPF50+ (in French)

★★★★½4,42/5(31 reviews - solid base)

Not suitable for sensitive skin (alcohol)

Highly mattifying, dry-touch gel-cream for oily to acne-prone skin. Oily skin score 91 - optimal profile. Sensitive skin score -3.75 - unsuitable, This is consistent with the presence of alcohol reported in returns. The non-white finish is suitable for darker skins.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
28
Oily skin
91
Normal to dry
70
Normal to oily
91
Sensitive skin
-3,75
✕ Verdict sensitivity Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -3.75). Presence of alcohol - for tolerant oily skin only.
User feedback (31 reviews - representative extracts)
★★★★★«Does not leave a white finish, suitable for dark skin. Pump doses well.»
★★★★★«No new pigmentation spots after one summer. Adopted winter and summer alike.»
★★★★«Light, non-greasy effect, perfect for summer.»
★★★«Suitable for my acne-prone skin but I regret the presence of alcohol.»

Verdict - Highly mattifying gel-cream with optimal profile for oily skin (91), non-white finish suitable for darker skin. Not suitable for sensitive skin (-3.75, alcohol). 4.42/5 out of 31 reviews.

Matte sun protection for dry to normal skin - Haruharu Wonder

Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Airyfit Sunscreen SPF50+

★★★★★4,70/5(23 reviews - solid base)

Moisturizing matte - dry to normal skin profile

A creamy-textured sunscreen that penetrates quickly, leaving a matte finish while moisturizing. Sensitive skin score -0.5 - slight caution. Profile geared towards dry to normal skin (91). Excellent make-up base according to feedback, although some may not like the smell.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
91
Oily skin
63
Normal to dry
91
Normal to oily
70
Sensitive skin
-0,5
⚠ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution (score: -0.5).
User feedback (23 reviews - representative extracts)
★★★★★«This is at least my 10th hit, it's incredible.»
★★★★★«The best sunscreen I've used: not greasy, not whitening, good makeup base.»
★★★★«Creamy texture, matte finish, provides hydration. I didn't mind the smell.»
★★★«Too bad it leaves a white film on the skin.»

Verdict - Matte, moisturizing sun protection for dry to normal skin (91), excellent make-up base. Slightly cautious (-0.5), cleaving fragrance. 4.70/5 out of 23 reviews.

Mattifying sunblock - Laboratoire SVR

SVR Sun Secure Blur SPF50+

★★★★☆4,11/5(70 reviews - very solid base)

Popular mattifier - dose well

Very popular, mattifying sun protection with a blurred effect (70 reviews). Oily skin score 91 - optimal profile for combination to oily skin Sensitive skin score -0.5 - slight caution. Use in moderation, as the thick texture becomes greasy in excess, and several feedbacks report that it stings the eyes. Available in fragrance-free and tinted versions.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
35
Oily skin
91
Normal to dry
35
Normal to oily
91
Sensitive skin
-0,5
⚠ Sensitivity verdict Slight caution (score: -0.5). Prefer the fragrance-free version for reactive skin.
User feedback (70 opinions - representative extracts)
★★★★★«Great texture, non-whitening, holds well, not too expensive with SVR promos.»
★★★★«Rather mattifying. Use the right amount because you tend to put too much on, otherwise it becomes greasy.»
★★★«I loved the result but it burns my eyes, I can't use it anymore.»
★★«Difficult to spread, leaves a visible orange film on fair skin.»

Verdict - Popular mattifying sunblock, optimal profile for oily skin (91). Slightly cautious (-0.5), dose carefully, stings the eyes for some. 4.11/5 out of 70 reviews.

Long UVA protection - La Roche-Posay

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 SPF50+ Gel-Cream

★★★★☆4,08/5(31 reviews - solid base)

Long UVA reference - not suitable for sensitive skin

Gel-cream with filter Mexoryl 400, which covers long UVA rays (380 to 400 nm). Sensitive skin score -2.0 - unsuitable, several returns mentioning alcohol. Normal to oily skin score 91. Reference for UVA protection, to be reserved for non-reactive skin and for use alone (lint under make-up).

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
0
Oily skin
82,6
Normal to dry
24,5
Normal to oily
91
Sensitive skin
-2,0
✕ Verdict sensitivity Not suitable for sensitive skin (score: -2.0). Presence of alcohol - for non-reactive skin only.
User feedback (31 reviews - representative extracts)
★★★★★«Very high UVA protection, one of the best on the market. Keeps skin matte even in summer.»
★★★★«Good protection and little white effect, but very liquid so not very practical.»
★★★«Gave me red patches, too much alcohol for my sensitive skin.»
★★★«Use alone, not under make-up as it fluffs up and makes the complexion oily.»

Verdict - Reference for long UVA protection thanks to Mexoryl 400 (normal to oily 91). Not suitable for sensitive skin (-2.0, alcohol), use alone. 4.08/5 out of 31 reviews.

Invisible Fluid Sun Care - Avene

Avene Ultra Fluid Invisible SPF50

★★★★☆4,36/5(11 reviews)

Does not sting the eyes

Invisible, fine-textured fluid in a practical format. Sensitive skin score 0 - suitable. Profile for dry to normal skin (84 to 91). One of the few chemical sunscreens not to sting the eyes according to feedback, with a finish sometimes judged a little shiny on oily skin.

Scores BeautyDecoded
Dry skin
84
Oily skin
52,5
Normal to dry
91
Normal to oily
63
Sensitive skin
0
✓ Verdict sensitivity Suitable for sensitive skin (score: 0).
User feedback (11 reviews - representative extracts)
★★★★★«Combination and sensitive skin: neither too liquid nor too thick, does not whiten or sting.»
★★★★«One of the few chemical sunscreens that doesn't sting my eyes, lightweight, good city sunscreen.»
★★★★«Very good solar and perfectly suited.»
★★★«A little too moisturizing for me, but a mattifying powder corrects everything.»

Verdict - Well-tolerated invisible fluid (0), one of the few chemical sunscreens that doesn't sting the eyes. Suitable for dry to normal skin, a slightly shiny finish on oily skin. 4.36/5 out of 11 reviews.

Which solar by skin type

Skin type To be preferred Further information
Oily skin Light, fluid textures; avoid thick sunglasses Suncare for oily skin
Dry skin Moisturizing creams with UV protection, SPF 50 minimum Suncare for dry skin
Sensitive skin SPF 50, formulas to be tested gradually; mineral filters often better tolerated Suncare for sensitive skin

Your questions about sun cream

Which SPF to choose for daily facial care?
A broad-spectrum SPF 50 is recommended for the face, even in the city and on cloudy days. Beyond the SPF, the key is to apply a sufficient quantity (about two fingers for the face) and reapply in the event of prolonged exposure.
Should I choose a chemical or mineral filter?
Chemical filters offer a lighter, less whitening texture, suitable for oily and dark skins. Mineral filters are better suited to sensitive skin, melasma and children, but leave white marks that a tinted version can limit.
Why does my sunscreen sting my eyes?
This inconvenience, common with certain fluid sunscreens, is often linked to filters or components that migrate with perspiration. If a cream systematically stings, it's best to change: several formulas, particularly Asian ones, are reputed not to sting the eyes.
Are Asian sunscreens better?
They are not necessarily better, but designed for everyday use, with light, melting textures that are appreciated for the face. European sunscreens, which are often more moisturizing, are well suited to dry skin or beach use.
Is sunscreen enough to protect against the sun?
No. It's one form of protection among many. You also need to protect your skin with clothing, a hat and sunglasses, limit exposure to hot weather, and reapply. These measures are all the more important for babies and children.

Dr Sylvain David
Plastic and aesthetic surgeon - Founder of BeautyDecoded

Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. In the event of pregnancy, skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.