How do I tighten dilated pores?

Excess sebum, which is well known to combination to oily skin, is responsible for many skin problems. imperfections Shiny face, dilated pores, blackheads... But have you ever heard of sebaceous filaments? They're simply sebum contained in the pores, but they can give the appearance of blemished skin, and for some, the end justifies the means! Unfortunately, these patches don't get to the heart of the problem, and can damage the epidermis if used too often. To get clear skin, you have to tackle the problem at the root. So how do we get rid of these filaments? What active ingredients should you use to restore even skin texture?

Pore anatomy

And we'll start with a little anatomy and physiology to take a closer look at the difference between a pore, a sebaceous filament and a blackhead.
And we start with the pores, tiny openings located on the surface of our epidermis through which sebum flows. Just below them is the pilosebaceous canal, to which a sebum-producing sebaceous gland is attached. Together, they form the pilosebaceous follicle, where the hair grows. The interior is lined with cells, coated with sebum and dead cell debris, and colonized by bacterial flora, as shown in this diagram. All this makes up the seborrheic filament. In normal skin, this oily substance travels through the canal and exits via the pore to moisturize and protect your skin from external aggression, but when the pore becomes blocked and increases in volume, we reach the first stage of acne.
Some pores, especially those on the nose and cheeks, can form quite visible sebaceous filaments.

In fact, it's a normal pore constituent that channels sebum to the surface of the epidermis. They are made up of horny cells, skin microbiome and lipids. They are often confused with blackheads, but they are not skin lesions. They are synthesized naturally by your skin and line the inner walls of pores. However, when sebum production becomes excessive, the filament will thicken and appear on the surface of your epidermis. The pore widens and fills with this waxy substance. 

What's the difference between a sebaceous filament and a blackhead?

The big difference is that the filament lets sebum out of the pore, whereas the blackhead is a retention lesion. The follicle is completely filled with sebum, which becomes clogged when it comes into contact with the ambient air. And whether you're bothered by showy sebaceous filaments, dilated pores or blackheads, there are solutions, both in terms of skincare and lifestyle.

The formation of imperfections.

Some we can't really change, like heredity, but others we can!
And we're going to start with the overproduction of sebum!
Overproduction leads to enlarged pores. Conversely, a lack of sebum leads to very tight, even invisible pores. This is the case with dry skin. Biologically, men produce more sebum because of their testosterone levels. On the other hand, women's sebum production varies according to their menstrual cycle. One very effective way of improving sebum overproduction is to influence diet. Number 1 is to avoid sugar and foods with a high glycemic index, which increase insulin, which in turn increases IGF1, the insulin-like growth hormone that orders the sebaceous gland to work harder! In addition, lactose in milk and, to a lesser extent, chocolate, have also been implicated, and I've made a video on the subject.

Another problem is the thickening of the epidermis, which clogs pores, and as you know from what I've already said, the sun is often one of the main causes of hyperkeratinization. The epidermis then thickens, inevitably leading to an accumulation of dead cells in your skin orifices. This leads to :
the formation of blackheads ;
the appearance of unsightly sebaceous filaments; 
and uneven skin tone. 

So we protect ourselves from the sun in summer and winter.
Make-up residues such as foundations and powders can also choke your pores if they're poorly removed during the cleansing phase, but you should also be aware that out-of-date brushes or make-up can be breeding grounds for bacteria. And you can see for yourself in this video I posted on instagram. So remember to clean your make-up utensils thoroughly.
On the other hand, as we age, sebum production decreases, but contrary to expectations, pores don't tighten. As we age, our skin cells are no longer able to synthesize the same quantity of collagen and elastin. And this deficit leads to a loss of tone and elasticity. Pores sag and widen, as the tissues no longer hold their walls in place. In this case, you'll need to choose cosmetic active ingredients that are different from those used by people with hyperseborrhea problems, but I'll tell you more about this later in the video.

Skin dehydration promotes enlarged pores

A final factor to take into account is dehydration. When skin is dehydrated, it causes a loss of tissue tone. The result? The pore widens because thirsty skin can't maintain sufficient pressure around the orifice. So don't hesitate, use lotions, serums and good moisturizing creams in addition to the cosmetic actives I'm about to give you.

Azelaic acid against pores

And we start with azelaic acid which can reduce the diameter of your pores by regulating the phenomenon of hyperkeratinization. This molecule normalizes the proliferation of keratinocytes on the skin's surface. It does not exfoliate damaged cells, but forces them to regulate their development to reduce excess keratin. As a result, cellular debris does not clog pores or increase their diameter.
At the same time, azelaic acid helps break down the lipids that make up sebum.
To put the benefits of this molecule to work for your skin, I recommend Typology's 10 % Azelaic Acid Mattifying Serum. This natural, minimalist formula with just 10 ingredients is a no-brainer. Combination, oily and acne-prone skin types will love its fluid texture. Azelaic acid, bamboo and zinc PCA work in synergy to regulate the amount of sebum on your skin and absorb its excess. Its rich glycerin content draws water into the epidermis to keep the tissues around the pores toned. However, if you have dry skin, I wouldn't recommend it, and you can opt for other very interesting azelaic acid products such as Paula's Choice or The Ordinary, which I'll list in the video description.

Exfoliating acids against pores

Another family of active ingredients are exfoliating acids, which destroy dead cells, excess sebum and blackheads on the surface of your epidermis. And I'm going to tell you about three products.

Skin perfecting 2 % BHA exfoliating lotion from Paula's Choice is designed for combination and oily skin with imperfections. I've already told you about this product dozens of times, but it's an excellent product for pore and blackhead problems. It has a minimalist 9-ingredient formula and contains 2 % of BHA, which is the maximum dosage permitted by legislation. Beta hydroxy acid is fat-soluble. It therefore has an affinity with your skin's lipids, enabling it to penetrate your skin's interstices, unlike other fruit acids. It's also an antimicrobial agent, preventing the proliferation of propionibacterium acnes. And it's anti-inflammatory, helping to rapidly reduce the size of a pimple or comedo. What's more, the formula contains large quantities of humectants such as propandiol, which helps water to spread evenly through the epidermis. Green tea rounds out the product's virtues, thanks to its antioxidant and soothing properties.

As an Asian product, Cosrx's BHA anti-dark spot lotion targets pore size and sebum overproduction with a trio of effective active ingredients:
2 % of BHA ;
niacinamide ;
a complex of salix alba + betaine salicylate (derived from BHA).
Applied to shiny or blemished areas, it acts gently to :
regulate sebaceous gland activity;
clean the inside of pores to reduce their appearance;
This formula offers good value for money. Expect to pay around 15 euros (depending on the retailer) for a 100 ml pump bottle.

Finally, these products are alternated from time to time with exfoliation with AHAs such as glycolic acid. Glycolic acid is an ideal complement to anti-dark spot rituals. Water-soluble, this active ingredient has a low molecular weight. This substance destroys dead cells on the skin's surface while offering moisturizing action, as it is an excellent natural humectant. It is found in Paula's Choice, skin Perfecting 8 % AHA exfoliating gel. It improves your skin's overall texture and is a real hydration shot thanks to sodium PCA and panthenol.
At a lower price, The Ordinary's 7 % glycolic acid solution is also very effective. 

Retinol, an active ingredient that unclogs pores

Retinol is an essential part of any anti-dilated pore routine.
It is keratolytic and accelerates cellular desquamation. It eliminates dead cells and unclogs pores.
It is anti-bacterial and prevents the proliferation of propionibacterium acnes leading to pore inflammation.
It is anti-aging and acts deep down in the dermis. It stimulates collagen production, which supports the walls of your pores and prevents them from sagging as the skin ages. 
I'm going to tell you about a product that contains a low concentration of retinol, La Roche-Posay's retinol B3 serum, which contains 0.1 % retinol. The combination of retinoids and niacinamide frees your pores from clogging and restructures their contours. This duo of active ingredients regulates sebum levels, stimulates desquamation and cell regeneration. I'd reserve this light-textured product for younger people with oily skin, as it contains quite a lot of alcohol, and I'll include other retinol products in the video description.

Niacinamide regulates excess sebum

Well tolerated by all skin types, inexpensive and easy to formulate, vitamin B3 is an integral part of many cosmetic products such as cleansers, lotions and creams. Multi-functional, it acts, among other things, on pore size, penetrating the epidermis to regulate excess sebum. The Ordinary brand markets the serum Niacinamide 10 % zinc 1 %. Its aqueous texture reinforces your skin's cutaneous barrier and rebalances the hydrolipidic film. Zinc works synergistically to smooth out skin irregularities and mattify the complexion's overall appearance. This highly affordable treatment is ideal for anti-pore dilation beauty routines. A 60 ml bottle costs 12.10 euros. 

Moisturizing creams

As explained above, epidermal water is essential for maintaining good elasticity. Cosrx Advanced Snail 92 cream quenches your skin's thirst with 92 % snail mucin and hyaluronic acid. 
In a 2021 study, researchers applied this macromolecule to the skin of hairless mice. It proved to be an effective photoprotector. It regenerates UV-damaged collagen and prevents water evaporation from the epidermis. 
Its gel-like texture, balanced with humectants such as hyaluronic acid and emollients, quickly penetrates skin tissue, protecting it from dehydration. Skin is clean, fresh and tightly textured all day long. For around 15 euros, this cream comes in a 100 ml jar.

When you have a problem with dilated pores and mature skin, you need to focus on supporting the skin around the pores, and what I can advise you to do is to use a copper peptide serum and a retinol serum every other night.

Sun creams

I recommend sun protection to avoid hyperkeratinization and premature skin aging, two factors responsible for the enlargement of ostia. It also protects you from the photosensitization that can result from the daily application of retinol and exfoliating acids.
 UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence PA ++++ SPF 50+ by Bioré is a light-textured sunscreen that's pleasant to apply. This sunscreen contains a large amount of alcohol. However, the drying effect is offset by a high concentration of moisturizers such as glycerine and hyaluronic acid. Dimeticone texturizes the emulsion, softening and smoothing the skin. In terms of sun filters, the formula includes an anti-UVA and anti-B shield:
oxtonoxate;
Uvinul T 150 ;
Uvinul A plus ;
Tinosorb S.

Skin cleansing

The last element I haven't mentioned is skin cleansing, which is essential when you have a filament problem or enlarged pores. If you have oily skin, you can use a salicylic acid-based cleanser, but if you have sensitive skin, you can use a gentle cleanser like Bioderma's Créatine. For the evening, I recommend a double cleanser to remove all residues without irritating your skin. On the other hand, if you have a problem with dilated pores and sensitive, dry skin, I advise you to cleanse your face only once a day and simply rinse it off in the morning.
You should always adapt your routine according to how you feel, especially as scientific studies are contradictory on the ideal number of cleansings. But to sum up, 3 times is a mistake, 2 times when you have oily skin is a good choice, 1 time is ideal when you have dry skin, and if you're between the two you need to test and choose.

Finally, while blackheads can be eliminated, sebaceous filaments cannot. Sebaceous filaments regenerate naturally in your tissues and are essential to the health of your skin. So your only option is to treat your hyperseborrhea to minimize their appearance.
I hope you find all these tips useful... Share in comments your best products to fight unsightly filaments, enlarged pores and blackheads