Dilated pores and sebaceous filaments - how to treat them according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Dilated pores and sebaceous filaments are mainly the result of sebum overproduction, dehydration and aging. Unlike blackheads, sebaceous filaments are normal pore structures that cannot be permanently eliminated: we act on their cause. Effective active ingredients: azelaic acid, BHA exfoliants, retinol and niacinamide, with moisturizing and sun protection.
Understanding the pore
The pore is a tiny orifice through which sebum flows. Underneath, the pilosebaceous duct and the sebaceous gland form the pilosebaceous follicle. The interior - cells, sebum, debris, bacterial flora - forms the seborrheic filament. In normal skin, this material exits through the pore to moisturize and protect; when the pore becomes blocked and enlarged, the first stage of acne is reached.
Sebaceous filament or blackhead ?
The sebaceous filament is a normal component of the pore: it channels and transports sebum to the surface. Made up of horny cells, microbiome and lipids, it is not a lesion.
The filament lets sebum out of the pore, while the blackhead is a retention lesion: the follicle is completely filled with sebum, which oxidizes on contact with air and turns black. When sebum production becomes excessive, the filament thickens and appears on the surface, the pore enlarges and fills with a waxy substance - but remains, by nature, open.
Why pores expand
Some factors, such as heredity, cannot be changed, but most can.
Overproduction of sebum enlarges pores (dry skin has tight pores). Men biologically produce more via testosterone; in women, it varies according to the cycle. Diet plays an important role: limiting sugar and foods with a high glycemic index reduces insulin spikes and IGF-1, which stimulates the sebaceous gland. Epidermal thickening (hyperkeratinization, often due to the sun) accumulates dead cells in the pores. Make-up residue not properly removed choke the pores. Ageing The loss of collagen and elastin causes the skin to lose tone, and the walls no longer support the pore, which sags and widens. Dehydration, Finally, it reduces pressure around the orifice - hence the importance of moisturizing lotions, serums and creams.
L'azelaic acid
It reduces pore diameter by regulating hyperkeratinization: it normalizes the proliferation of surface keratinocytes, without exfoliating them, to reduce excess keratin. Cellular debris no longer clogs pores. Avoid use on dry skin.
SVR Sébiaclear Ampoule Flash (Azelaic acid 15%)
Record imperfections score - oily skin, in treatment
Ampoule concentrated to 15 % azelaic acid, the highest imperfections score in the database (95.2). Oily skin profile 91 - optimal for hyperseborrheic skin and dilated pores. Sensitive skin score -3.0 - unsuitable, presence of alcohol. Use as a course of treatment rather than continuously, not suitable for dry skin (18.2).
Visit exfoliating acids
They eliminate dead cells, excess sebum and blackheads on the surface. BHAs (salicylic acid) are fat-soluble, penetrating pores, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. AHAs (glycolic acid), water-soluble, act on the surface and moisturize. The two can be alternated. A more powerful peel mask can be used occasionally to complete the treatment.
The Ordinary Peeling AHA 30% + BHA 2%
Not suitable for sensitive skin - skin used to it
Powerful peeling mask (AHA 30% + BHA 2%) to be applied for 5 to 10 minutes, once a week to once a fortnight, on skin used to acids. Sensitive skin score -5.75 - not suitable. Refines skin texture and unclogs pores, excellent value for money according to feedback, but handle with caution.
Visit niacinamide
Well-tolerated by all skin types, it penetrates the epidermis to regulate excess sebum and act on pore size. Combined with zinc, it smoothes irregularities and matifies - an excellent, cost-effective anti-pore active ingredient.
Aroma-Zone Niacinamide Serum 10% + Zinc + Copper
Sebum regulator - low price, refillable
Niacinamide 10 % serum enriched with zinc and copper, low-cost, refillable sebum regulator. Blemish score 81,6. Sensitive skin score -1.0 - slight caution. Reduces imperfections and improves skin texture according to feedback, with a slight sticky effect and possible tingling in some skins.
Visit retinol, the essential anti-pores
Keratolytic, it accelerates desquamation and unclogs pores; antibacterial, it limits proliferation; anti-aging, it stimulates collagen, which supports pore walls and prevents them from slackening. Combined with niacinamide, it frees the pore from obstruction and restructures its contour. Low-dose formulas are suitable for young, oily skin; beware of the alcohol content of some.
For pores associated with mature skin, it's best to focus on skin support around the pore: a copper peptide serum and a retinol serum, alternating every other evening. For mature skin, retinol and peptides are preferable to sebum regulators alone.
L'hydration
Epidermal water is essential for maintaining good elasticity around the pore. A cream balanced with humectants (hyaluronic acid) and emollients protects against dehydration and keeps skin texture tighter throughout the day.
Cosrx Advanced Snail 92 All-in-One Cream
Combination to oily skin - too light on dry skin
Moisturizing cream with 92 % snail mucin and hyaluronic acid, non-greasy gel texture. Sensitive skin score +0.75 - adapted, including reactive skin. Combination to oily skin profile 91 Maintains moisture and tone around the pore without weighing it down. Considered too light for dry skin according to several feedbacks.
Sun protection and appropriate cleaning
Sun protection prevents hyperkeratinization and premature aging, both of which lead to enlarged pores, and protects against photosensitization linked to retinol and acids. To choose, see the guide how to choose your sunscreen.
Cleansing: for sebum overproduction, cleanse morning and night (salicylic acid cleanser for oily skin, gentle gel for sensitive skin), with a double cleanse in the evening. For dilated pores on sensitive, dry skin, cleansing once a day is sufficient, with a simple rinse in the morning. To sum up: three times a day is a mistake, twice is suitable for oily skin, once is ideal for dry skin.
Analyze an anti-pores product on your skin profile.
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Your questions about dilated pores
Can sebaceous filaments be removed?
What's the difference between a sebaceous filament and a blackhead?
Can dilated pores be permanently tightened?
Why do my pores widen with age?
Does diet influence pore size?
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. In the event of pregnancy, skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.