How do I exfoliate my skin?
The benefits of skin exfoliation.
There are two types of exfoliation: physical exfoliation, which is great for the body, and chemical exfoliation, which I prefer for the face.
In fact, the acids used in chemical exfoliation will destroy the links between cells and remove the top layer of your epidermis made up of dead cells to help cell renewal by bringing in healthier cells.
This will make it possible toimprove skin texture and textureThis is particularly useful for smokers, or people with oily skin who often have problems with skin texture.
Exfoliation will improve hyperpigmentationExfoliation is also very useful for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, whether post-acne or post-sun hyperpigmentation, by eliminating pigmented cells more rapidly. Exfoliation is also very useful in anti-aging because over time, the skin's cell renewal cycle diminishes, and exfoliation will help remedy this.
As a professional, we see it when we perform peels: the improvement in the skin is flagrant, whether for wrinkles, spots or skin radiance. Peels have been known for years for their anti-aging benefits, and exfoliation should be considered as mini peels that will improve the quality of your skin.
Different exfoliating acids:
Alpha-hydroxy acid: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, etc.
AHAs, alpha hydroxy acids, are derived from natural substances and are ideal for exfoliating combination to dry skin. AHAs are water-soluble, so they act on the surface of the skin but not inside the pores. There are different types of alpha hydroxy acid: glycolic acid is the smallest and therefore acts deeper than the others, lactic acid is larger than glycolic acid, so it's gentler and has the advantage of being an excellent natural humectant; and finally, the third type I'm going to talk about is mandelic acid, which has the highest molecular weight and therefore has a more surface action than the other two, making it ideal for sensitive skin. AHA exfoliants from Paula's choice are ideal in anti-aging skincare routines, and you need to choose the right one for your skin type.
Beta-hydroxy acid: Salicylic acid
Another category are the Beta hydroxy acids, whose sole representative is salicylic acid, which acts on the skin's surface and deep within the pores, as it is fat-soluble, making it more suitable for oily skin prone to pimples and blemishes, as well as dilated and clogged pores. Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it an ideal candidate for acne-prone skin.
Poly-hydroxy acids: Lactobionic acid and gluconolactone
PHAs are the latest acids to be discovered, and they exfoliate the skin quite gently. Very useful in anti-aging and acne treatment, they provide gentle, effective exfoliation.
How to choose the right scrub?
Now let's take a look at how to choose your exfoliator, depending on your skin type and the issues you face.
When performing a medical peel, the power of the peel is managed in two ways, depending on the type of peel. For TCA-based peels, the power increases with the number of coats applied: you do one pass, wait to see how the skin reacts, then do another pass, and so on until you get the result you want. Glycolic acid peels, on the other hand, are applied in a single layer, and the strength of the peel depends on the application time: the longer you wait, the stronger the peel. That's why application time is so important when using this solution, and I advise you not to exceed 5 minutes at the start, and to neutralize this glycolic acid-based solution, rinse your face thoroughly and don't forget to insist on the area around the wings of the nose.
How do you incorporate exfoliation into your skincare routine?
The first question is at what age should you start using them? There's no age limit. As soon as you want to improve fine lines and boost your collagen production, you need to choose the exfoliant that's right for you and get started. Indeed, the first wrinkles can come too early, especially if you're very expressive, if you smoke or if you often expose yourself to the sun, and let's be honest, genetics count too. If you have acne problems, salicylic acid can help you whatever your age. So there's really no age to start. The important question is how many times a week I should exfoliate my skin. I've tried to answer this by detailing the characteristics of each product, but it depends on a lot of factors: the factors you need to take into account are: what is the state of your skin barrier? If it's damaged, I wouldn't recommend exfoliating acids. Rebuild a healthy skin barrier and you can get down to business. Other factors include the type of cleanser you use, whether it's aggressive or gentle, whether you moisturize your skin properly or use retinoids?
On the other hand, I'd advise you not to rely on product recommendations, as you'll often find phrases like "apply this lotion 1 or 2 times a day", and if you do that in most cases you'll be killing your skin. If you use retinol like I do, you should know that retinol already acts a bit like an exfoliant by accelerating cell renewal, so what I do is, on the days when I don't use retinol, I use an acid. Exfoliation once a week is a good start for most people, but after that it depends a great deal on the type of product, dosage and PH, because you can find glycolic or salicylic acid cleansers that you can use every day, and others that are much more aggressive, as we've seen. So when it comes to frequency, it's up to you to decide according to all the criteria we've seen, even if I've given you the basics. Above all, what you don't want is to exfoliate too often, especially if the products are powerful. If you experience burning sensations, you should stop immediately and rinse your face thoroughly, and if you notice redness, that's not good either.
How do you exfoliate your skin like a pro? I see too many mistakes in this area, people who exfoliate their skin too often don't use the right product, and as a result their skin barrier is damaged and they can't tolerate any product. It's a pity, because exfoliation is an integral part of anti-aging, anti-acne and anti-spot routines, but you still need to know how. That's why today I'm going to explain which exfoliator is right for you, depending on your skin type and problem, and how to incorporate them into your skincare routine.
Scrub for dry skin:
Dry skin can use glycolic acid in small concentrations
Daily smoothing treatment 5% AHA
An excellent exfoliant designed for daily use. With 5% glycolic acid, dry skin can use it without irritation, especially as it contains nourishing ceramides. It can be used after your aqueous or hyaluronic acid gel lotions. An exfoliant designed for dry skin with anti-aging concerns.
I also recommend the use of lactic acid, which is both an exfoliant and a moisturizing acid - there's nothing better for dry skin. It's an acid that's also very interesting for mature skin, as it will provide the benefits of both exfoliation and hydration. Lactic acid is slightly larger than glycolic acid, making it less irritating.
Lactic Acid 5% + HA
Among the lactic acids I can recommend is one from The Ordinary with a concentration of 5 %, which also contains hyaluronic acid. As for frequency of use, if you don't use retinol, you can start by applying it every other day. An excellent product at a low price! Don't forget your moisturizer
Normal to combination skin and anti-aging
If you have normal or combination skin, glycolic acid is certainly the best option. One of the advantages of glycolic acid is its low molecular weight, which means it has the ability to penetrate deep into the skin, making it all the more effective and powerful, but the disadvantage is that it can also cause irritation.
For products I can recommend:
8% AHA Exfoliant Exfoliating gel
A relatively powerful exfoliant containing 8% of AHA "glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid". For optimum anti-aging action, this product is packed with anti-aging peptides and allantoin for the soothing effect. An excellent product to help fight wrinkles, blemishes and texture problems, designed by Paula's choice.
Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
The second product is The Ordinary glycolic acid solution at 7%, an aqueous, basic solution to be used after cleansing the skin. With 7%, we're talking about a medium concentration, so it's a product you can start using every other day unless you're using retinol. If you use retinol, you can apply this exfoliant on days when you don't use retinol. A frighteningly effective and inexpensive exfoliant
The best thing is to apply the acids in the morning and the retinol in the evening, or if you want to do everything in the evening, space out the application of the two.
Combination to oily skin prone to imperfections
Skin perfecting 2% BHA
For oily skin, salicylic acid is often the best choice, as it's fat-soluble and cleanses pores deep down, reducing inflammation and is therefore ideal for people prone to blemishes and with oily skin. The one I recommend is the Paula's Choice 2% BHA Exfoliating Lotion, which is fantastic for people with acne-prone skin. This cosmetic product can be used every day as it remains very gentle, and it's used like a lotion with no need to rinse the face afterwards. A highly effective combination of salicylic acid and green tea extracts.
Sensitive skin:
Mandelic Acid 10% + HA
For sensitive skin, the acid I recommend is mandelic acid, which is a very large acid that doesn't penetrate deep into the skin, making it ideal for sensitive skin. Another acid we can recommend is The Ordinary, with 10% of mandelic acid and hyaluronic acid, for such simple compositions there's no need to spend more. If you have sensitive skin, you can start using it every 3rd day.
An exfoliator designed for sensitive skin
Another option for sensitive skin is to use polyhydroxy acids, which are milder than alpha hydroxy acids.
Exfoliating masks and peels
AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
The latest glycolic acid is The Ordinary's famous mask with 30% AHA and 2% BHA, whose use reminds me of medical peels. For this type of exfoliant, an application once a week is more than enough. It's a very powerful exfoliating peel, but also very irritating.
To sum up, exfoliating your skin will help you with a wide range of skin problems, including anti-aging, blemishes and acne.