Kiehl’s is launching an ambitious anti-wrinkle serum, but there’s a catch 

What Kiehl’s promises: three promises—«visibly plumper» skin, penetration into the deep layers of the skin, and a formula that is «free of fragrance and colorants.». One of his demands is a problem for me…

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A relatively light formula

The ingredient composition is dominated by humectants, but it also contains a small amount of fatty substances.

Active Ingredients: A True Foundation for Anti-Aging

In the BeautyDecoded app, the serum receives a «Very Good» rating for anti-aging, with 9 targeted ingredients.

• Pro-Xylane (hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol), 6th position: this is the serum’s active ingredient. This sugar-derived molecule is being studied for its effect on firmness, but much of the data comes from the industry.
• Niacinamide, 5th place: a well-documented active ingredient that improves skin quality, complexion, and the skin barrier.
• Rhamnose, 3rd position: a sugar with anti-aging properties, strategically placed in the formula.
• Adenosine (17th), tocopherol (13th) and taurine (14th) round out the formula with antioxidant and soothing properties.

The catch: 14 potentially irritating ingredients

Compatibility with sensitive skin is rated «Incompatible.» The main drawback is the essential oils: geranium, rosemary, bergamot, and sweet orange. In addition, there are numerous fragrance compounds classified as regulated allergens: limonene, linalool, citronellol, geraniol, carvone, camphor, pinene, linalyl acetate, and beta-caryophyllene. Propylene glycol, listed in 8th place, rounds out the list.

For those with sensitive, reactive skin or skin prone to contact allergies, this is a real obstacle.

Especially since the brand markets it as a fragrance-free serum

«Fragrance-free»: a nuance to consider

This highlights the huge gap between marketing and reality. Technically, the term «Parfum / Fragrance» does not appear in the INCI. However, the formula contains several essential oils and fragrance compounds such as limonene, linalool, and geraniol. For those with sensitive skin, the absence of the word «fragrance» does not guarantee the absence of fragrance ingredients or sensitizing substances. The key is to read the INCI list, not just the front label of the bottle.

My verdict

Kiehl’s offers an ambitious anti-aging formula featuring Pro-Xylane, niacinamide, rhamnose, and adenosine. However, the presence of essential oils and fragrance allergens makes it less suitable for sensitive skin.

Scan your serum

To find out if your serum is right for your skin type  Download the Beauty Decoded app (iOS and Android) Scan your products, decipher their INCI listings, and compare what the packaging promises with what the formula actually contains.

The rating depends on your skin!