The new retinol regulations in Europe: What are the solutions?
Visit retinol is a highly prized ingredient for its preventive and curative action on many skin problems. The European Commission's recent decision to regulate its marketing will affect certain cult products on the cosmetics market from 2026.
The benefits of retinol for our skin
Visit retinol is used in numerous cosmetic products for its effects on skin health and appearance. In particular, it is recognized for :
- Fight wrinkles and fine lines
- Reducing acne
- Improve skin radiance and firmness
This active ingredient acts both on the surface (epidermis) and deep down (dermis), making it highly effective in combating the signs of skin aging.
The new face of retinol regulation in Europe
Despite these many qualities, the European Commission has decided to further control the marketing of products containing retinol. Thus, from the end of 2023, a new law will come into force imposing restrictions on the concentration of retinol present in products. From 2026 onwards, cosmetics containing more than 0.3% retinol will be banned from over-the-counter sales in Europe.
The solution for people who want to keep powerful products
Strangely enough, the retinal is not regulated by these new laws. One solution is to use products containing both retinol and retinal.
Théramid's contains 5 % of granactive retinoid, 0.3 % of retinol and 0.1 % of encapsulated retinal and is relatively potent. And Colibri's contains a total of 0.3 % of retinal and retinol (it doesn't exceed 0.3%, but they could create a more potent formula).
As far as I'm concerned, this change won't affect me as I rarely exceed a concentration of 0.3% in retinol in the products I use except when I'm testing products! Which is often!
What are the implications for flagship marquess and popular products?
This means that certain popular products, such as The Ordinary serum and Paula's Choice serum, will have to comply with the new regulations if they are to continue to be marketed in Europe. However, they won't disappear from the shelves overnight, and will have time to adapt to the new legislation.
An opportunity for innovation in the cosmetics sector?
However, this tightening of standards could also provide manufacturers with an opportunity to develop new products. new products adapted to consumer needs while complying with government restrictions. It is possible that the next few years will see innovations both in the formulations of existing products and in the creation of new active ingredients with similar properties but without the drawbacks associated with retinol.
The reasons for this regulation: a real danger to health?
In fact, the EU Scientific Committee wishes to limit excessive exposure to vitamin Awhich can sometimes cause skin problems or even weaken bones in high doses.
It's important to point out that the amount of vitamin A present in cosmetic products is generally lower than that found in our diet. Nevertheless, this can increase the overall dose of exposure, representing a potential risk for those consumers most exposed to this vitamin.
What can we expect from this regulation in the coming years?
The announcement of this regulation is a game-changer for marquess and consumers alike, who will have to adapt to these new market conditions. Unfortunately, it could also mean the end of some of the flagship products we've come to expect.
