That Avène ad that's on a loop... I checked the ingredients
Impossible to ignore: Avene When a pharmaceutical company invests so much in advertising, there are two options: either the product is revolutionary, or the marketing compensates for a banal formula.
I deciphered the ingredients. Retinal, why it's different from retinolBoth are retinoids (vitamin A derivatives).
All retinoids must be converted into retinoic acid (the active form used by skin cells).
The conversion path :Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic acid (2 steps)Retinal → Retinoic acid (1 step)Result: Here is the complete list of ingredients I analyzed:
What I found in the formula
✅ The good points1. The combination of retinal + niacinamide= OK
Niacinamide compensates for the potential irritation of retinal, reinforces the skin barrier and adds anti-spot action. Exactly what you'd expect from an intelligent formula.2. Effective antioxidants
Vitamin E (double form) + Terminalia Chebula = protection against oxidative ageing.
⚠️ The limits
Texture too rich for normal to oily/very oily skin
Squalane + shea + plant oils = a feast for dry skin, a nightmare for shiny T-zone.Basic hydration:Glycerine (position 3) + hyaluronic acid (position 19) = correct but not exceptional.
My advice is to use a moisturizing serum beforehand.**Important:** Retinal tends to dry out the skin (a classic side effect of retinoids). This formula partially compensates with its emollient-rich base, but this may not be enough if your skin is already very dry or dehydrated.
Expected results (after 8-12 weeks)
✅ Refined texture
✅ Reduced surface wrinkles
✅ Slightly improved firmness
✅ More even complexionFor whom exactly?
✅ This cream is for you if :
Normal to dry or very dry skinAnti-aging objective→ In that case, go for it.
❌ Skip it if :Combination to oily skin (too rich)Active acne (unsuitable texture)
→ Cheaper alternatives more suitable for oily skin.The Ordinary Retinal 0.2%: This is a serum with a much more balanced formula for oily skin.
Geek & Georgeous: As with The Ordinary, the ratio of aqueous to fatty ingredients is better suited to oily skin.My verdictIt's not not just a marketing stunt.Avène has come up with an intelligent and coherent formulaThe problem?
Avène advertises «all skin types», but according to my analysis of the formula, Its rich texture is unsuitable for combination to oily skin, and it is aimed at a specific profile (normal to dry skin, anti-aging objective). Outside this zone, there's a risk of disappointment.
My advice: If your skin matches, give it a try. If not, look for a lighter texture.
The yellow color comes from the retinal (normal, don't worry).
📬And don't forget never your SPF50 in the morning with a retinal
Sylvain from Beauty Decoded
