Pigmentation spots, acne, blackheads, or uneven skin texture: these are all skin issues that can undermine our self-confidence. The good news? Two key ingredients can help you significantly reduce them:’azelaic acid and the retinol. In this article, we will explore their benefits, mistakes to avoid, and specific examples of routines to effectively incorporate them into your evening skincare routine.

Why combine azelaic acid and retinol?

By combining azelaic acid (anti-blemish, anti-dark spot) and retinol (anti-aging, anti-acne, anti-dark spot), you get a highly effective synergy for:

• Smooth skin texture
• Reduce pigmentation spots
• Fighting acne and blackheads

Caution If your only concern is anti-aging, combining retinol and azelaic acid is not necessarily optimal. It is better to use retinol + anti-aging peptides. Similarly, if you suffer from redness, combining retinol + azelaic acid may be too irritating: opt instead for azelaic acid + niacinamide, or azelaic acid + tranexamic acid.

1. Azelaic acid: the underrated multifunctional ingredient

An asset discovered by chance

In the 1970s, doctors observed that yeast Malassezia furfur left white spots on the skin by destroying skin pigment. By studying the molecule produced by this yeast, they identified azelaic acid and its amazing depigmenting properties. Since then, numerous studies have focused on this ingredient to better understand its properties and mechanisms of action, which are still partially mysterious.

5 recognized benefits

1. Antibacterial action
   It acts against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, which are responsible for acne, among other things.
2. Regulation of keratinocyte proliferation
   It prevents hyperkeratinization, a phenomenon that makes the complexion dull and promotes clogged pores.
3. Action on lipids
   Azelaic acid helps break down lipids on the surface and inside comedones, which is particularly beneficial for combination to oily skin.
4. Action on tyrosinase
   It inhibits the enzyme responsible for melanin production, reducing the appearance of dark spots and evening out the complexion.
5. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
   Ideal for soothing redness and combating cell oxidation.

Its side effects

In high concentrations, it can cause burning, stinging, or itching sensations. A healthy skin barrier limits these discomforts, but if you have sensitive skin, it is best to introduce it gradually into your routine.
Another point: azelaic acid often comes in powder form, making it difficult to incorporate into formulas. Products containing azelaic acid can therefore «flake» and have a mattifying finish. This is why it is better to apply it in the evening.

2. Retinol: the classic anti-aging ingredient... and more

Retinol is known for its anti-aging, anti-acne, and anti-blemish properties. However, it requires a grace period approximately two months (but this varies depending on skin type). During this period, irritation may occur if care is not taken.

5 rules for getting started with retinol

1. Take it step by step
   Start by applying it every other night (or every third night), then adjust the frequency according to your skin's reaction. The goal is to achieve daily use if desired, but this is not mandatory to reap the benefits.
2. Follow the recommended dosage.
   A pea-sized amount is enough for the entire face. Applying it to dry skin helps to minimize irritation.
3. Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize!
   Use a retinol serum, followed by a moisturizer. For sensitive skin, the «sandwich» technique (light cream, retinol, then cream again) can reduce the risk of irritation.
4. Adapt your moisturizer
   Retinol can dry out the skin. Opt for a cream that is richer than you would normally use. Oily skin can be treated with a product for normal to dry skin, while dry skin will benefit from an even more nourishing cream.
5. Avoid other irritating ingredients during the tolerance period.
   No exfoliating acids, pure vitamin C, alcohol-based sunscreens, or products containing allergenic essential oils. And don't forget to apply SPF 50 every morning to protect your sensitive skin.

In case of severe irritation

1. Stop using retinol and all irritating active ingredients.
2. Begin a repair phase lasting 10 to 15 days.
3. Then resume using retinol by applying it using the «sandwich method.».

3. How can you incorporate these two ingredients into your evening routine?

Visit great challenge with this duo is that azelaic acid often causes flaking and retinol is sensitive to light. Both are therefore generally recommended for nighttime use.

Option 1: Alternate every other evening

• Day 1 : Azelaic acid in the evening
• Day 2 : Retinol in the evening
• Day 3 : Azelaic acid, etc.
  It is an ideal solution for beginners, but also for sensitive or reactive skin.

Option 2: Apply them one after the other

It is then necessary to respect the order of textures : layer them starting with the lightest product and ending with the thickest or most oily.

4. Focus on textures: how to choose your serum?

Azelaic acid serums

1. Milky textures
   • Typology 10% : mattifying effect, with zinc and bamboo, ideal for combination to oily skin.
   • Theramid 15% : soothing formula (colloidal oatmeal, carnosine) suitable for all skin types, even sensitive skin.
   • Facetheory : rich in plant extracts (oats, rosehip, aloe vera, tea), a good option for radiance and combating hyperpigmentation.
   • SVR : effective but contains a lot of alcohol, not recommended for sensitive skin.
2. Silicone textures
   • The Ordinary : highly siliconized, very soft finish but may shed depending on skin type.
   • Paula's Choice : also contains salicylic acid, licorice, and bisabolol, but contains fatty ingredients that are not always suitable for oily skin.
3. Cream textures
   • ACM : resembles a thick cream.
   • Teen Derm by Isis Pharma : similar to a light cream, designed for acne-prone skin.

Retinol (or retinal) serums

1. Aqueous serums
   • Aromazone (retinal): effectiveness uncertain according to some users.
   • Clemency & Vivien (retinal): good formulation, light and watery.
2. Silicone serums
   • Céravé, Paula’s Choice, La Roche-Posay : Please note that the La Roche-Posay product contains a high alcohol content.
3. Emulsions
   • Colibri (retinol)
   • The Ordinary (new retinal emulsion)
4. Oily formulations
   • Typology (retinol in oil), Esthederm, Byoma, Cosrx, etc.

5. Order of application: from lightest to richest

In general, products are classified as follows, from the most fluid to the thickest:

1. Aqueous retinoids
2. Milky azelaic acids
3. Silicone products (azelaic acid or retinol)
4. Retinols in emulsion
5. Azelaic acids in cream texture
6. Retinols in oils

This texture guide will help you choose which product to apply first during your evening routine. However, feel free to adjust according to your sensory preferences (for example, if you prefer to apply oil before cream to avoid sleeping with an oily feeling).

Key points to remember :

• Always start gradually.
• Respect the tolerance phase retinol.
• Moisturize your skin generously.
• Protect yourself from the sun with SPF 50.
• Alternate or layer the products in the following order from the thinnest to the thickest.

Make the right choices for your skin

Say goodbye to unnecessary get visible results!

Our artificial intelligence recommends personalized cosmetics.