Vichy has quietly reformulated Mineral 89; the actual change to the formula is not the one that was announced
Vichy has quietly reformulated Mineral 89, one of the best-selling moisturizing serums in drugstores. On the bottle, the brand highlights a new active ingredient: polyglutamic acid. But when you read the INCI list from start to finish, the real change lies elsewhere.
I compared the old and new formulas, ingredient by ingredient. Here's what I found.
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The Marketing Pitch: Polyglutamic Acid
The new feature shown is the Sodium Polyglutamate, a derivative of polyglutamic acid. It is a film-forming humectant: it binds water to the skin’s surface and forms a flexible film. Its role is comparable to—and complementary of—that of hyaluronic acid, which is already present (sodium hyaluronate).
In principle, this addition is consistent with the «hydration booster» claim. But beware of the magnifying glass effect. In the INCI list, it appears at the end of the ingredient list, after carbomer and sodium hyaluronate. Its concentration is therefore low. It is a genuine active ingredient, but one that is highlighted primarily for its marketing value.
Top Change No. 1: Propanediol Climbs to No. 2
Here's what you should pay attention to. Propanediol comes in second on the list, right after water.
Propanediol is a humectant and solvent, often derived from bio-based sources. Its widespread introduction has led to a reshuffling of the entire moisturizing base: glycerin has moved up to third place, while PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, which ranked second in the previous version, has dropped significantly.
Specifically, Vichy has reformulated the product’s moisturizing and solubilizing core. This is a far more significant fundamental change than the cosmetic addition of polyglutamate, yet it receives much less attention.
Real Change #2: Phenoxyethanol Is Being Phased Out
The most interesting aspect concerns the preservation system.
The old formula was based on the combination of phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol. In the new formula, phenoxyethanol has been removed. It has been replaced by hydroxyacetophenone, a preservative and antioxidant, combined with caprylyl glycol and maltodextrin.
Why is this noteworthy? Phenoxyethanol is a fully approved and widely used preservative. However, it’s one of the ingredients I recommend avoiding during pregnancy as a precaution. Its removal makes this new version compatible with a pregnancy routine.
What Remains the Same
The core ingredients of the product remain the same: Vichy mineralizing water, hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate), and Biosaccharide Gum-1, a soothing moisturizing agent. This isn’t a new formula. It’s an evolution.
Beauty Decoded's Review
Overall, I’d say these changes are a step in the right direction. It’s an improvement. Those who already liked the old formula will find the same product here, with a cleaner list of preservatives. And those who weren’t convinced before can give it another try: the moisturizing base has been revamped, so it’s worth another go. I’d recommend it especially for those who like lightweight hydrating serums; people with normal to oily skin will appreciate it, while those with dry skin might enjoy it a little less.
Dr Sylvain David
Community Feedback
On the Beauty Decoded app, the Mineral 89 line is well-established, with several products receiving ratings. The daily booster serum has a solid rating (4.5/5), and the reviews all point to the same characteristics: a fresh, non-sticky texture that absorbs quickly. One user sums up the experience well: the product is pleasant to apply and fragrance-free. but «not the most hydrating serum.».
That’s precisely where the community’s mixed reviews come in. Many praise its comfort and light texture, while noting that its moisturizing effect is only moderate: «a good moisturizing serum for the morning, but not rich enough for the evening.».
In other words, the community confirms what the slogan says: Mineral 89 is an excellent hydration booster. The reformulation doesn't change that core benefit—it refines it.
Want to know what's really in your serum? Download the Beauty Decoded app for free (iOS and Android) : Scan your Mineral 89—or any product—and break down its INCI list ingredient by ingredient. You’ll immediately see what the brand highlights… and what it prefers to leave in the fine print.
