Vitamin C derivatives - which are effective according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Vitamin C derivatives are gentler, more stable alternatives to pure vitamin C, ideal for sensitive skin. The most interesting are ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. All are believed to transform into vitamin C in the skin, with evidence mainly in vitro. Conversely, ascorbyl palmitate is disappointingly unhelpful. None can match the potency of pure vitamin C.
No pure vitamin C: scam or alternative ?
Some vitamin C do not contain pure vitamin C, but derivatives. Is this a scam? Not necessarily: derivatives have real advantages (stability, mildness, ease of association), even if their efficacy is generally inferior to that of L-ascorbic acid. Let's look at them family by family.
Derivatives aqueous
Their advantage: they are found in aqueous products, ideal for combination to oily skin. Disadvantage: their ability to penetrate the cutaneous barrier is questionable.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
No published data on its antioxidant capacities, but in vitro studies suggest it may stimulate collagen, brighten skin in vivo and reduce imperfections. Present in The Ordinary serum (under reformulation) and Vichy's Hydra Mag C.
Ascorbyl glucoside
One of the most interesting. Greater stability, so easier to formulate. Good in vitro penetration (a key point for a hydrophilic derivative), even if in vivo is lacking. Once absorbed, it converts to pure vitamin C: its benefits without its drawbacks.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Several studies have compared it to pure vitamin C, with promising results on wrinkles and pigmentation spots. It is found in Typology's radiance serum.
Derivatives lipophilic
Their advantage over aqueous derivatives is that they penetrate the skin barrier more easily.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Names to remember: SVR C20 Biotic, Caudalie Vinergetic C... Liposoluble and much more stable than pure vitamin C, it's an excellent choice for dry skin and hyperpigmentation such as melasma.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Very similar to the previous one - often the same ingredient in practice. More stable than pure vitamin C and can be mixed with retinol, but degrades under UV light. It is said to possess the three key properties (antioxidant, collagen, radiance); remarkable in vitro results, in vivo results yet to be fleshed out.
Derivatives with dual solubility
3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid
Present in concentrated marques serums such as Novexpert and Nooance. Its dual solubility makes it a versatile derivative.
Ethyl ascorbic acid
An esterified derivative of ascorbic acid, present in a The Ordinary product at 15 % and in a Niod serum particularly effective against blemishes.
Ascorbyl palmitate, the disappointing derivative
Designed to solve vitamin C's stability problems while preserving its benefits, ascorbyl palmitate doesn't live up to its promise. Its stability is in fact similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (and therefore not very stable), and it is fat-soluble.
Most of the time, it's found at the very end of the formulation, where it serves little purpose other than to enable the brand to display «vitamin C» on the label. Better to turn to the promising derivatives mentioned above.
A selection of serums to derivatives
Here are several serums with vitamin C derivatives, ranked according to their solubility, with BeautyDecoded scores. All are milder and more stable than pure vitamin C. For more serums, see vitamin C guide and best vitamin C serums.
Derivatives water-soluble - combination to oily skin
Mimetic Skin Revive (ascorbyl glucoside + niacinamide)
Serum combining ascorbyl glucoside (a stable, water-soluble derivative) and niacinamide, plus soothing oatmeal. The ideal combination for sensitive or reactive skin that wants the radiance of vitamin C without the acidic pH. Sensitive skin score 0.0 - adapted. Moisturizing, plumping and well-tolerated even in cases of rosacea according to feedback; some reviews consider it a little expensive.
Typology Vitamin C 11% (sodium ascorbyl phosphate)
Serum with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (a water-soluble derivative studied for wrinkles and spots), in an aqueous, gel-like formula enriched with antioxidant silk tree bark extract. Good spot score (76,5). Sensitive skin score -1.0 - slight caution. Pleasant texture and long-lasting results according to feedback, with a practical pipette.
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%
Serum with ascorbyl glucoside (a stable, water-soluble derivative), which combines very well with niacinamide and is suitable for combination to oily skin (good score for oily to combination skin). 91). Sensitive skin score 0.0 - adapted. A good gateway to vitamin C for skin that cannot tolerate the pure form.
Aroma-Zone Vitamin C 10% & Astaxanthin
French serum with 10 % of vitamin C and antioxidant astaxanthin, at a low price and gentle concentration. Sensitive skin score -0.5 - slight caution. Immediate healthy-glow effect for some; it's also the lowest-rated of the base, with several reviews not noting any marked effect, a reminder that at lower concentrations, efficacy depends very much on formulation and freshness.
Derivatives lipophilic - normal to dry skin
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 20%
Serum with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (a stable, liposoluble derivative) in an oil base, particularly suited to dry skin and spots such as melasma. Sensitive skin score 0.0 - adapted, a gentle alternative to pure vitamin C. Oily texture for non-oily skin (oily skin score 0).
Avene Vitamin C Radiance Serum
Parapharmacy radiance serum combining a vitamin C derivative and niacinamide, in a gentle base by Avène, easily found in pharmacies. Good anti-aging score (81,6). Sensitive skin score -0.25 - slight caution, It's well tolerated, even by skins that can't tolerate pure vitamin C. Opinions are divided: some skins love it, others find it unspectacular.
Find the right derivative on an INCI list.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about derivatives
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Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. The efficacy of vitamin C derivatives is largely based on in vitro data, and is generally inferior to that of pure L-ascorbic acid. In case of skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test prior to first use is recommended.