LED face - benefits and how to choose your appliance according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Facial LED (photobiomodulation) uses cold light to stimulate cellular activity according to its color: red light (633 nm) and near-infrared light (830 nm) are best documented for rejuvenation, collagen and healing; blue light targets acne. For an effective device, check the precise wavelength, irradiance (40 to 100 mW/cm²) and frequency of use compatible with your daily routine.
What is the photobiomodulation ?
Known to doctors since the 1950s, the benefits of light waves were indirectly revealed in the early 2000s by NASA's work on healing in weightlessness. Photobiomodulation diffuses cold light energy into the skin's layers; depending on the color (and therefore wavelength), the energy emitted by the diodes enhances cellular activity.
This technology is used in several fields: sports medicine (inflammation, recovery), oncology (side effects of treatments), neurology (pain), dermatology and aesthetic medicine (scarring, photoaging, photorejuvenation), and at home as a skincare tool (unifying skin tone, limiting acne, firming up, reducing wrinkles). The technique is painless, can be used in all seasons, and complements other treatments: the device is applied a few centimetres from the face, for between 1 and 45 minutes, on cleansed, make-up-free skin.
15 % off at Nooance with this code.
What do you mean? works
Light is a wave carried by photons, whose energy can be absorbed by the skin. The spectrum is divided into three main categories, with one key rule: the longer the wavelength, the deeper the ray penetrates.
10-400 nm
Invisible: they make you tan and synthesize vitamin D, but are responsible for melanoma.
400-700 nm
Visible light: this is where some of the LED's wavelengths lie.
700-1000 nm
Invisible near infrared: stimulates the deep dermal matrix.
Not entirely understood, but light energy is thought to act at the molecular level, affecting cellular respiration and the production of ATP, the fuel of cells. The skin's chromophores (melanin, hemoglobin, opsin) absorb this energy; the cell metabolizes it, improving its functioning and promoting high-quality cell renewal.
Benefits according to the light
While red and near-infrared are the most commonly used colors in the office, recent studies have revealed the value of other visible colors.
Blue light
Penetrates the epidermis, especially used against acne bacteria (antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory). Usage debated: the UV/blue borderline is poorly defined, and some studies suspect that it promotes more stubborn hyperpigmented areas on darker, darker skins.
Yellow light
Acts on hyperpigmented areas by reducing melanin content, according to a 2018 in vitro study on melanocytes.
Green light
Would be beneficial for cellulite and tissue swelling, but this avenue still requires a great deal of study.
Red & near infrared
The most penetrating, down to the dermis. Proven effects on photorejuvenation and healing. Boost fibroblasts - hence collagen and elastin - and are also used to treat baldness.
Red & near infrared : the best-documented
A June 2021 in vivo study on human fibroblasts suggests that red and near-infrared radiation promotes the expression of certain genes and stimulates the synthesis of type 1 and 3 collagen precursors and elastin. They are recommended for correcting the signs of aging and repairing UV-traumatized tissue.
Anti-aging
Smoothes fine lines and wrinkles, densifies the dermis and improves tone.
Healing
Accelerates and improves wound healing.
Anti-inflammatory
Reduces chronic redness, acne, rosacea and improves tolerance of sensitive skin.
Hair
In helmet form, improves baldness.
Clinically, two precise wavelengths induce the desired effects: 633 nm (red) and 830 nm (near infrared). These are not approximate ranges, but specific values - a decisive criterion when choosing a device.
How to choose its
In-office devices are more powerful and supervised (€30 to €80 per 15- to 45-minute session). Home devices, slightly less powerful, extend the effects over time (from a few hundred to €1,000). As the effects are proportional to the frequency of use, it's best to refrain if you can't use it several times a week. Expect to pay between €300 and €1,000 for good value for money.
Precise wavelength
For red and infrared, studies show specific values (630 and 830 nm), not a range. A lack of specificity may mean a lack of efficiency.
The price
Diodes emitting specific wavelengths are more expensive to produce: a good device will be relatively expensive.
Irradiance
In mW/cm², this is the energy received by the skin. Clinically effective devices offer 40 to 100 mW/cm²; the value also depends on the distance of the diodes from the face.
Frequency
It must be adapted to your lifestyle. The higher the irradiance, the shorter the session. A light, battery-powered device allows you to move around during the session.
Fears and contraindications
These devices are sometimes accused of using heat to melt away facial fat. Unlike radiofrequency, ultrasound or lasers, LED is a cold light that does not generate heat in tissues or target fat. There's no risk of volume loss.
On the other hand, people suffering from pathologies linked to light hypersensitivity (solar urticaria, lupus, chronic actinic dermatitis) should refrain from using light and seek professional advice. There are no scientific reports of side effects from red or near-infrared light.
Analyze your cosmetics on your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about LED face
Which LED color for which problem?
Are home LED masks effective?
How often should I use an LED mask?
Can LEDs melt away facial fat?
Is LED compatible with pregnancy?
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. In the event of photosensitivity, pregnancy or doubt, medical advice is recommended. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions.