The Ordinary: complete doctor's opinion - tops, flops and user guide
Article written by Dr Sylvain David - Specialist in aesthetic medicine - Updated: March 2026
ℹ️ The most suitable products depend above all on your skin type. A personalized approach using analysis tools (such as the BeautyDecoded application) can help optimize results.
The Ordinary revolutionized consumer cosmetology by imposing two standards that the industry systematically avoided: display actual asset concentrations and prices that reflect the real cost of formulation. A niacinamide 10 % serum at 6.80 euros, a retinol 1 % at 9 euros, a glycolic acid 7 % at 8.70 euros - these prices leave no room for marketing. What we buy is the active ingredient.
But not all The Ordinary products are created equal. Some are must-have references. Others are just okay. And some have real formulative problems - notably Azelaic Acid for oily skin and Peeling Solution for sensitive skin.
ℹ️ Informative and educational article written by a doctor specializing in aesthetic medicine. The Ordinary is a Deciem Group brand. The ratings reflect a personal formulative and clinical assessment, independent of any partnership.
Contents
- What really sets The Ordinary apart
- Summary table: tops, corrects and flops
- TOP - Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
- TOP - Retinal 0.2% (airless format)
- TOP - Buffet + Copper Peptides
- TOP - AHA BHA Peeling Solution 30% (resistant skin only)
- Correct - Caffeine 5%, Hyaluronic Acid, Milky Toner
- FLOP - Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension (oily skin)
- Incompatibilities: complete table
- Typical routines by objective
- FAQ
What really sets The Ordinary apart
1. Concentrations are displayed. The majority of marques cosmetics don't mention the concentrations of their active ingredients - not by chance, but because they are often symbolic. The Ordinary displays them systematically. You know exactly what you're buying.
2. Prices reflect actual formulation costs. A niacinamide 10 % serum costs less than 1 euro to formulate in large-scale industry. The Ordinary sells it for €6.80. Other marquess sell for €30-50 with exactly the same active ingredient.
Analysis by Dr Sylvain David: The Ordinary is the brand I recommend to patients who want to understand what they're putting on their skin and who have a limited budget. But it's a brand for insiders: misused, a range of pure active ingredients in high concentrations can do more harm than good.
Summary table: tops, corrects and flops
| Product | What to choose | Note | Verdict Dr Sylvain David |
| Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% | A | 9/10 TOP | TOP - inexpensive, effective for blemishes + pores, may irritate some people |
| Retinal 0.2% (airless format) | A | 9/10 TOP | TOP - well formulated, humectant/fat balance, protective packaging |
| Buffet + Copper Peptides | A | 9/10 TOP | TOP - a multitude of anti-aging active ingredients, reference copper peptides |
| AHA BHA Peeling Solution 30% | A | 8.5/10 (resistant skins) | TOP for resistant skin - too aggressive for sensitive skin |
| Glycolic acid 7% Toner | A | 8/10 | Gentle daily exfoliation, excellent Q/P ratio |
| Retinol 1% in squalane base | A | 8/10 (confirmed) | High concentration, confirmed profiles only |
| Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA | A | 7,5/10 | Biomimetic hydration, NMF documented |
| Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG | A | 7.5/10 Correct | Correct - dark circles and puffiness, effectiveness varies according to profile |
| Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 | A | 7/10 Correct | Correct - moisturizes, remains hungry without strong differentiator |
| Milky Toner | A | 6.5/10 Correct | Correct - yeast + squalane drowned in many formulation ingredients |
| Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension | A | 5/10 FLOP (oily skin) | FLOP oily skin with imperfections - unsuitable formulation |
TOP - Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Que Choisir : A | Price : ~6.80 € / 30 ml | The brand's best-selling serum
It is The Ordinary product that I recommend first. inexpensive, effective on blemishes and pores. 10 % niacinamide + 1 % zinc PCA in an alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula. 10 % niacinamide acts on :
- Regulation of sebaceous production (less dilated pores, less shiny skin)
- Reinforcement of the skin barrier (stimulation of endogenous ceramides)
- Anti-inflammatory action (reduces redness and acne blemishes)
- Inhibition of melanosome transfer (reduction of pigmentation spots)
Important clinical nuance: may be irritating for certain profiles. The presence of propanediol in significant quantities (solvent) is the most frequent cause - it can provoke tingling or transient redness on very reactive skin. On normal to oily skin: no problems observed. On very sensitive skin: test on a small area.
«My complexion is more even, my pores look reduced and my little pimples have almost disappeared. And all for 7 euros.»
- Manon R., 2025 - 5/5 ⭐
Verdict: 9/10 TOP - Reference price/effectiveness ratio for niacinamide. May be irritating for some (propanediol) - test on small area if skin is reactive.
TOP - Retinal 0.2% (airless format)
Que Choisir : A | Note : Price : ~14,90 € / 20 ml | Airless format preserves the environment
Retinal 0.2% is The Ordinary's best-formulated product. Well-formulated, with a good balance between humectants and fatty phases - unlike Retinol 1% in pure squalane base, which lacks humectants. Bisabolol soothes, AH moisturizes and squalane seals.
Visit retinal requires a single conversion step to become retinoic acid (versus two for retinol) - more potent at equivalent concentration. The airless format protects the unstable molecule from oxidation from the first to the last dose.
⚠️ Retinal - gradual introduction: 1 evening/week × 4 weeks minimum. SPF 50+ in the morning mandatory. Not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women.
Verdict: 9/10 TOP - The Ordinary's best-formulated retinal - humectant/fat balance + preserving airless format. Superior to Retinol 1% in squalane base.
TOP - Buffet + Copper Peptides
Que Choisir : A | Note : Price : ~16,60 € / 30 ml
This is the most complete anti-aging serum in the range: a multitude of anti-aging active ingredients - 9 peptide complexes (Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, SYN-AKE, GHK-Cu...) + GHK-Cu copper peptides + multi-weight AH + collagen precursors.
Visit copper peptides GHK-Cu have been documented since the 1970s for their action on fibroblasts: stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis, wound healing, antioxidant. At this price, it's the best peptide value on the market.
Important: never combine with pure vitamin C at the same time - copper oxidizes and degrades ascorbic acid. Use Buffet in the evening, vitamin C in the morning.
Verdict: 9/10 TOP - A multitude of anti-aging active ingredients, including copper peptides. Best peptide Q/P ratio on the market. Do not combine with pure vitamin C.
TOP - AHA BHA Peeling Solution 30% (resistant skin only)
Que Choisir : A | Note : Price : ~8.70 € / 30 ml | ONLY for resistant skins
30 % AHA + 2 % BHA at pH 3.5 - the highest concentration available without prescription in cosmetics. Top if you have resistant skin Visible results in just one application - refined skin texture, improved radiance, less visible pores.
But this concentration is too aggressive for sensitive, reactive, dehydrated skin or skin undergoing treatment (retinol, other acids). The risk: long-lasting redness, alteration of the barrier, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on darker phototypes.
⚠️ Strictly occasional use - 10 minutes maximum, once a week maximum. Never use on dry, irritated or sensitive skin. Never combine with other exfoliants in the same week. SPF 50+ mandatory the following days. Rinse immediately in the event of burning or intense redness.
Verdict: 8.5/10 TOP (resistant skins) / FLOP (sensitive skins) - Effective and concentrated for resistant skin. Too aggressive for all other profiles. Niacinamide before and after limits irritation.
Correct - Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG
Que Choisir : A | Note : Price : ~7 € / 30 ml
Caffeine 5 % + EGCG (green tea epigallocatechin, antioxidant). Correct formula for dark circles and puffiness. Clinical nuance: caffeine's effectiveness on puffiness is real but variable - effective on pockets of vascular origin (around 23 % of users according to studies), with no effect on anatomical pockets (age-related fat hernia).
Practical tip: keep refrigerated. Cold application amplifies the vasoconstrictive effect and improves lymphatic drainage.
Verdict: 7.5/10 Correct - Correct for dark circles and vascular puffiness. Variable effectiveness depending on the origin of the puffiness. Keep refrigerated.
Correct - Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
Que Choisir : A | Note : Price : ~7,90 € / 30 ml
Three forms of HA with different molecular weights + vitamin B5. The multi-weight concept is biologically relevant. But we're still a little disappointed The formula is correct without being differentiating. SVR's Ampoule B3 (5 % niacinamide + triple AH at ~€28) or Typology's Serum AH (3 % AH + 2 % B5 + 3 humectant sugars at ~€22) offer more complementary active ingredients at an admittedly higher cost.
Verdict: 7/10 Correct - Moisturizes well. No strong differentiator. More complete alternatives available.
Correct - Milky Toner
Que Choisir : A | Note : Price : ~11 € / 150 ml
Fermented yeast extracts + squalane + HA - interesting active ingredients on paper. The problem: these active ingredients are embedded in a multitude of formulation ingredients (glycerine, texturizing alcohols, stabilizers, preservatives...) which dilute the effective concentration of valued active ingredients. The formula is honest but lacks any real clinical punch.
For an active toner with fermented extracts in serious concentrations: Bioderma's Sensibio range or Asian essences (Filorga Global Repair Essence) are more accomplished.
Verdict: 6.5/10 Correct - Interesting active ingredients drowned in too many formulation ingredients. Pleasant texture but no significant clinical impact.
FLOP - Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension (oily skin with imperfections)
Que Choisir : A | Note : Price : ~8 € / 30 ml | FLOP if oily skin
Azelaic acid 10 % is a serious active ingredient - anti-spot, anti-inflammatory, anti-comedonal. But The Ordinary suspension formulation is unsuitable for oily skin with imperfections., This is precisely the profile that most seeks this asset.
The problem: the suspension base is an emulsion rich in silicones and fats. too heavy for oily skin. It can aggravate the sensation of heavy skin, and is not suitable for use as a layer under make-up. The suspension itself (undissolved AA particles) leaves an unpleasant granular residue.
For azelaic acid on oily skin : Nooance Clarifying Care (15 % AA + BHA, gel texture) or Typology AA 10% + bamboo (light milky texture) are much better suited to this profile.
Verdict: 5/10 FLOP (oily skin) - Correct active ingredient, unsuitable formulation for oily skin. Texture too heavy, granular residue. Better alternatives: Nooance or Typology.
Incompatibilities: complete table
This is the most critical point in using The Ordinary correctly. The range offers pure active ingredients in high concentrations - their incorrect combination can neutralize their efficacy or cause severe irritation.
| Assets | Do not combine with | Why |
| Pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) | Peptides, retinol, AHA/BHA at the same time | Vitamin C oxidizes copper peptides. Acidic pH incompatible with retinol and acids in the same application. |
| Retinol / Retinal | AHA, BHA, pure vitamin C the same evening | Cumulative irritation. Increased photosensitization. Risk of barrier rupture. |
| Copper peptides (GHK-Cu) | Pure vitamin C, exfoliating acids, retinol | Vitamin C oxidizes copper and degrades peptides. Acids denature peptides. |
| AHA (glycolic, lactic acid) | Retinol, pure vitamin C, BHA the same evening | Cumulative use of exfoliants = severe irritation and damage to the skin barrier. |
| BHA (salicylic acid) | AHA the same evening, retinol | Double exfoliation = over-irritation. BHA alone is sufficient on oily skin. |
| Niacinamide | Compatible with everything - no restrictions | One of the only universally compatible cosmetic active ingredients. |
ℹ️ Rule of thumb: morning active ingredients (vitamin C, niacinamide, peptides, HA, SPF) vs. evening active ingredients (retinol/retinal, AHA/BHA). Never combine two exfoliants on the same evening. Niacinamide is the universal exception - compatible with everything.
Typical routines by objective
| Objective | Morning routine | Evening routine |
| Anti-imperfections | Niacinamide 10% + Zinc → light moisturizer → SPF50+ | Cleaner → Niacinamide 10% + Zinc → (no AA 10% - see analysis) |
| Anti-aging beginner | Hyaluronic Acid 2% → crème → SPF50+ | Cleanser → Retinal 0.2% (2×/week) or Retinol 0.5% → cream |
| Confirmed anti-aging | Vitamin C (other brand) → SPF50+ (other brand) | Cleaner → Buffet + Copper Peptides → Retinol 1% (3-4×/week) |
| Anti-stain | Alpha Arbutin 2% → SPF50+ (essential) | Cleanser → Niacinamide 10% → Glycolic Acid 7% (2-3×/sem) |
| Hydration | Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 → NMF + HA → SPF50+ | Cleanser → Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 → NMF + HA |
| Sensitive skin | NMF + HA → light cream → SPF50+ | Cleaner → NMF + HA → (no irritating active ingredients) |
FAQ
Where to start with The Ordinary if you're a beginner?
Two products are all you need to get started: Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (morning and evening, universal, risk-free except propanediol) + Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (moisturizing). This duo is compatible with all skin types and allows you to see how your skin reacts before introducing more powerful active ingredients.
Why is The Ordinary azelaic acid not recommended for oily skin?
The suspension formulation uses a base rich in silicones and fats that is too heavy for oily skin - it can aggravate the smothering sensation and is not suitable as an under-makeup layer. Azelaic acid itself is excellent, but in a light gel formula (Nooance, Typology). It's not the active ingredient that's the problem, it's the vehicle.
Is Peeling Solution dangerous?
Not if used correctly on resistant skin: 10 minutes, rinse thoroughly, 1 time per week maximum. Dangerous if used on sensitive, dry or irritated skin, or in combination with other exfoliants. The rule: if your skin reacts to the usual exfoliants, this product is not for you.
Is Retinal 0.2% really superior to Retinol 1%?
For most profiles, yes. Retinal is more potent at equivalent concentration (one conversion step instead of two) and the formula is better balanced in humectants. Retinol 1% is only of interest to profiles who are fully aware of their retinoid tolerance and want maximum concentration - and know how to compensate for the absence of humectants.
Can The Ordinary products be used during pregnancy?
Niacinamide, HA, NMF and peptides are generally compatible. Absolutely avoid: any product containing retinol or retinal. AHA/BHA are usually avoided as a precaution. Azelaic acid 10% is generally tolerated, but needs to be confirmed. Consult your doctor or midwife.
Which The Ordinary products shouldn't be mixed?
Some products should not be mixed, as they can neutralize each other or cause irritation.
A pure vitamin C product should not be applied at the same time as a peptide product, as it may neutralize it. You also need to watch out for acids and retinol, which can cause excessive irritation when mixed with vitamin C.
A peptide product risks being deactivated if applied at the same time as an exfoliating acid, and if it's a copper peptide product, you should also avoid retinol in the same skincare routine.
An exfoliating acid does not mix with retinol, pure vitamin C or peptides.
A retinol product does not mix with pure vitamin C or exfoliating acids.
The Ordinary anti imperfection routine
The Ordinary Anti-Spot Routine
BeautyDecoded - Independent medical information.
