Peptides for the face - types, benefits and best serums according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
Peptides are short assemblies of amino acids that send signals to skin cells, for example to produce more collagen, elastin or hyaluronic acid. There are four families: signaling peptides, transport peptides (copper peptide), peptides that act on neurotransmitters (dynamic wrinkles) and growth factors such as EGF. They offer gentle anti-aging action, without the irritation of retinol.
What is a’a peptide ?
Peptides or growth factors such as EGF are sometimes described as «botox in a bottle». Here's a more objective view of their value in facial care, a selection of the best serums, and above all, when not to apply an EGF-based product.
Peptides are assemblies of amino acids, like proteins. The difference: a protein is a very long chain of amino acids, often with a 3D structure, whereas a peptide is short. In humans, 20 amino acids make up all proteins. In cosmetics, peptides are of interest because they act at the heart of cells, sending them messages: produce more collagen to reduce wrinkles, or less pigment to reduce blemishes.
The 4 categories peptides
Signaling peptides
They send a signal to cells to produce more collagen, elastin or hyaluronic acid. The most studied are Matrixyl and Matrixyl 3000, found in many anti-aging serums.
Transport peptides (copper)
They carry minerals such as copper and manganese. Copper peptide, a natural tripeptide discovered by Dr. Pickart almost 50 years ago, is widely studied: it increases the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid by dermal cells.
Action on neurotransmitters
Like argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8), they limit muscle contraction - interesting for dynamic wrinkles. On the forehead, they have difficulty reaching the muscle (separated by a layer of fat); around the eyes, with thin skin and close muscle, they are particularly relevant.
Growth factors (EGF)
EGF, naturally present in the skin, stimulates cell growth and collagen, with a real impact on regeneration. Two reservations: composed of 53 amino acids, it doesn't easily penetrate the barrier - and see the caution section below.
EGF: in which cases be careful ?
With growth factors, a precautionary principle should be applied in two situations. Firstly, in the case of redness linked to small vessels (telangiectasias): it's best to avoid a product containing EGF, as it could encourage the formation of new vessels. Secondly, in the case of a history of skin cancer or precancerous lesions: an active ingredient that stimulates cell growth is not ideal in this context.
To be clear, EGF is not mutagenic and does not cause cancer; but as it stimulates cell growth, it could theoretically accelerate an already existing lesion. When in doubt, these situations require medical advice: no EGF product is therefore offered as an over-the-counter product here.
The best peptide serums
Here's a selection of well-formulated peptide serums, with BeautyDecoded scores and user feedback. All offer a gentle anti-aging action, particularly appreciated in summer when you're taking your foot off retinol and acids.
The Ordinary Multi-Peptides + Copper Peptides 1%
The multi-peptide reference serum: it combines several signaling peptides (including Matrixyl) and 1 % copper peptides, covering both signaling and transport. Excellent anti-aging score (88,4) and the best-rated of the selection. Sensitive skin score 0.0 - adapted. Texture that penetrates well, very good value for money according to numerous feedbacks, many of them judging it more effective than more expensive competitors.
Geek & Gorgeous Power Peptides Pro-collagen
A serum rich in pro-collagen signal peptides, gentle and highly moisturizing, affordable and always fresh (the brand produces small batches on a regular basis). Anti-aging score at 85. Sensitive skin score +1.0 - adapted, Even for reactive skin. Thick texture that penetrates well according to feedback, with some finding it more effective than a retinol routine, perfect in alternation with a retinal.
Nooance Youth Serum 2% Copper Peptide
Concentrated serum with 2 % copper peptides, one of the most commented on in the database (72 reviews), which stimulates collagen and firms skin. Best anti-aging score of the selection (91,8). Sensitive skin score +1.25 - adapted, even for reactive skin. Ultra-concentrated but very gentle according to feedback, formidable when coupled with retinol in alternation; some reviews consider it more preventive than active, and a little expensive.
Cosrx Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
Eye contour cream with peptides and snail slime, for the fine zone where peptides are most relevant. Anti-aging score at 78,2. Sensitive skin score +0.75 - adapted. A fluid, moisturizing texture that applies smoothly according to feedback, with visible results after a few weeks; one review notes the absence of any marked decongestant active ingredients.
How to use copper peptides
Copper peptides are ideally used alternately, every other evening, with the retinol. Important: don't mix copper peptide with exfoliating acids or pure vitamin C, as this can destabilize it, and avoid using it at the same time as retinol as a precaution. Alternation is therefore the best approach.
It's difficult to quickly assess the anti-aging effect of a peptide serum, which is why it's important to choose carefully. But most of these products have a dual role, anti-aging and moisturizing/soothing, and in this respect a fairly rapid improvement in radiance is often visible. However, every skin reacts differently. The main drawback of peptides is that scientific proof of their anti-aging action is not yet as solid as for retinol.
Find the right peptide serum for your skin profile.
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Your questions about peptides
Are peptides «botox in a bottle»?
Peptides or retinol?
Can copper peptides be combined with vitamin C?
Where to apply dynamic anti-wrinkle peptides?
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Others associated guides
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. Growth factors (EGF) should be used with caution in cases of vascular redness (telangiectasias) or a history of skin cancer or precancerous lesions, and should be used only on medical advice. Copper peptide does not mix with pure vitamin C or exfoliating acids. In case of skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.