Facial scrub - AHA, BHA or PHA, which one to choose? according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
The right exfoliant depends on your skin type. Dry and mature skin: lactic acid, moisturizing. Normal to combination skin: glycolic acid, more penetrating. Oily skin with imperfections: salicylic acid (BHA), which cleanses pores. Sensitive skin: mandelic acid or PHA, gentler. Exfoliate once a week at first, never at the same time as retinol, and always with sun protection.
Why exfoliate
There are two types of exfoliation: physical (exfoliation), for the body, and chemical, for the face. Acids destroy the bonds between cells and remove the surface layer of dead cells, promoting cell renewal with healthier cells.
Skin texture and texture - Particularly useful for smokers and oily skin, who are often bothered by an irregular texture. Hyperpigmentation - exfoliation eliminates pigmented cells more quickly, both post-acne and post-sun. Anti-aging - Cell renewal slows down with age, and exfoliation remedies this; think of it as regular mini-peelings.
AHA, BHA, PHA : the different acids
Glycolic, lactic, mandelic
Water-soluble, they act on the surface but not in the pores. Glycolic (the smallest) penetrates deeply; lactic, which is gentler, is an excellent humectant; mandelic (the largest) remains on the surface, for sensitive skin.
Salicylic acid
Soluble in fat, it acts on the surface and deep down in the pores: ideal for oily skin with imperfections. Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, making it suitable for acne-prone skin.
Gluconolactone, lactobionic
The latest, they gently exfoliate. Useful for anti-aging and acne, effective and well-tolerated, perfect for reactive skin.
Skin dry or mature
Dry skin benefits from low-dose glycolic acid, but above all from lactic acid, both exfoliating and moisturizing. Slightly larger than glycolic acid, it is less irritating and provides exfoliation and hydration - ideal for mature skin.
The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA
Lactic acid 10 % exfoliant with hyaluronic acid, both gentle exfoliant and moisturizer, ideal for dry, mature skin. Anti-aging score 78,2. Sensitive skin score -3.0 - unsuitable at this concentration, to be introduced every third evening. Feedback shows a clear, healthy-glow effect, to be combined with a moisturizer and SPF.
Skin normal to mixed
Glycolic acid is often the best option. Its low molecular weight enables it to penetrate deeply, making it effective and powerful, with a slightly higher risk of irritation. Apply every other day, except retinol evenings.
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner
Lotion with 7 % glycolic acid, the most reviewed and highest rated exfoliator in the base range (45 reviews, 4.89). Anti-aging score 85. Sensitive skin score -5.5 - not suitable, for normal to oily tolerant skin. Visible effect on skin texture from first use, to be used in the evening, alternating with retinol.
Skin oily with imperfections
Salicylic acid is often the best choice: fat-soluble, it deep-cleans pores and reduces inflammation, ideal for blemishes. Many formulas can be used as a leave-on lotion, sometimes on a daily basis, as they remain gentle.
Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
No-rinse lotion with 2 % salicylic acid and green tea for oily skin with imperfections. Blemish Score 85. Sensitive skin score -1.0 - slight caution, Gentle formula for frequent use. Smoothes skin texture and unclogs pores according to numerous feedbacks; some sensitive skins find it too strong or incompatible with other active ingredients.
Skin sensitive
Mandelic acid is the gentlest AHA: its large size prevents it from penetrating deeply. PHAs are another option, even gentler than AHAs. Start every third day.
By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water
Exfoliating lotion with mandelic acid 5 %, the gentlest AHA, designed for sensitive skin. Sensitive skin score +1.25 - adapted for reactive skin. Very fluid texture, quickly absorbed. Clearer skin and tighter pores according to feedback, with slight tingling that fades; do not overuse as it may sensitize over time.
Geek & Gorgeous Calm Down 4% PHA + BHA
An ultra-gentle exfoliant combining PHA and a little BHA, designed for reactive skin. Sensitive skin score -1.5 - slight caution, but reputed to be very well tolerated. Exfoliates without causing redness according to numerous feedbacks, compatible with vitamin C in the morning. An alternative to classic AHAs for those who can't tolerate them.
Visit peeling masks
More powerful, peel masks similar to medical peels are used once a week maximum, on skin used to acids.
The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
Very powerful peeling mask, similar to a medical peel, to be applied for 5 to 10 minutes once a week maximum, on skin used to acids. Sensitive skin score -5.75 - not suitable. Returns the skin more beautiful and luminous according to the returns, excellent value for money, but to handle with prudence and never after another acid or retinol.
Exfoliation explained
Integrating exfoliation without damaging the skin
There's no age to start: as soon as you want to smooth fine lines, boost collagen or treat acne. The real question is frequency, which depends on the state of your skin barrier (if it's damaged, we rebuild it first), the type of cleanser you use, your hydration and whether you use retinoids.
The «1-2 times a day» approach often damages the skin. Retinol already acts as an exfoliant, so we apply an acid in the evenings without retinol. Once a week is a good start for most people; some glycolic or salicylic acid cleansers can be used daily, while others are much more aggressive. If you feel a burning sensation, stop immediately and rinse off; redness is a bad sign. Respect your skin barrier for long-lasting results.
Analyze an exfoliant on your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about’exfoliation
How often should you exfoliate your skin?
AHA or BHA: what's the difference?
Can acid and retinol be used together?
Which exfoliator is right for sensitive skin?
Do I need sun protection after exfoliation?
Our guides related to exfoliation
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. In the event of pregnancy, skin pathology or doubt, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test should be carried out before using the product for the first time.