BHA (salicylic acid) - the ally for pores and imperfections according to a doctor and analyses by BeautyDecoders.
BHA, or salicylic acid, is a lipid-soluble exfoliant: it's the only acid that penetrates pores to unclog them, making it ideal against blackheads, acne and blemishes. It is also antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating. In cosmetics, it is limited to 2 %; a pH between 3 and 4 guarantees its effectiveness. Like all exfoliants, it is photosensitizing: SPF 50 is mandatory.
The properties of salicylic acid
BHA offers numerous advantages for getting rid of stubborn imperfections, unclogging pores and fighting pimples. But you need to know how to use it properly, make it part of your routine and choose the right products.
Liposoluble: enters pores
AHAs have a special feature that other acids do not. AHAs (glycolic, lactic) are water-soluble and act on the surface. BHA, which is fat-soluble, unclogs the inside of pores clogged with dead cells, sebum and residues - ideal for dilated pores and imperfections.
Antibacterial
It inhibits the growth of fungi, viruses and bacteria, including Cutibacterium acnes, certain strains of which are responsible for acne.
Anti-inflammatory & sebo-regulating
Inflammation is the main cause of a pimple's redness, swelling and size: acting on it gives a fairly rapid result. It also regulates sebum production, as the literature shows.
Regulations, formulation and frequency
European regulations limit the concentration of BHA in cosmetics to 2 %. However, pH and galenic formulations can be used to optimize efficacy and tolerance. A pH between 3 and 4 is ideal: effective without being too irritating. The galenic form also counts: a lotion is more effective than a gel, but the gel form is better tolerated.
How often should I exfoliate? This depends on the condition of the skin barrier, whether or not you already exfoliate, and your skin type. Healthy barrier, no other exfoliation, normal to oily skin: daily BHA is possible. As a precaution, start every other day. The golden rule: test, observe skin reaction and adapt your routine.
Which exfoliants with BHA ?
Here are four representative salicylic acid exfoliants, with BeautyDecoded scores and user feedback, from benchmark to gentle option for sensitive skin.
Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
THE most-reviewed BHA reference (31 reviews): a fluid exfoliating lotion with 2 % salicylic acid that smoothes skin texture and unclogs pores. Ideal for combination to oily skin. Sensitive skin score -1.0 - slight caution. Refined texture and reduced imperfections according to the vast majority of feedbacks; some dry or very reactive skins find it too strong, to be adapted in frequency.
Geek & Gorgeous Porefectly Clear 2% Salicylic Acid
BHA serum with 2 % salicylic acid, the accessible, well-formulated alternative, often compared to Paula's Choice for much less. For pores and imperfections, combination to oily skin. Sensitive skin score -1.0 - slight caution. Good value for money according to feedback; like all BHAs, results depend on the skin, with some not noticing a marked effect, and the smell is considered a little chemical.
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 21% Solution
The minimalist, affordable BHA solution with 2 % salicylic acid, effective for targeted treatment of imperfections. Reserved for oily skin (dry skin score very low at 11,9). Sensitive skin score -2.0 - unsuitable, Introduce gradually and do not overuse. Good targeted exfoliant according to feedback, but reactions are possible if overused or on already sensitized skin.
Geek & Gorgeous Calm Down 4% PHA + BHA
Gentle exfoliant for sensitive skin: combines a PHA (large-molecule exfoliant acid, therefore gentler) with a small dose of BHA, for gentle exfoliation. Compatible with vitamin C in the morning. Sensitive skin score -1.5 - slight caution, but the best-tolerated exfoliator on this page. Reconciles reactive skin with exfoliation, according to enthusiastic feedback.
With what combine BHA
BHA and AHA: alternate rather than accumulate
There's no need to use a BHA and an AHA on the same day. On the other hand, it can be useful to alternate: AHAs are more effective on visible signs of sun damage (spots, wrinkles). Two options: if the main problem is blemishes, use a BHA during the week and an AHA at weekends; if the problem is both acne and anti-aging, alternate BHA and AHA every other day or every third day.
BHA and vitamin C: the acidity combo
As part of an anti-aging routine, combine a BHA and a serum in the morning. vitamin C is very effective: we play on the acidity of both products to reinforce their potency. Low pH is a key criterion for the effectiveness of both vitamin C and exfoliants, and each benefits from the other's pH. In order: a very fluid exfoliant (lotion) should be applied before the vitamin C serum, a BHA gel afterwards.
The associations to avoid
Do not use at the same time as a BHA the retinol or the copper peptides They do not tolerate acid pH, which makes them ineffective. Separate them (morning/evening) or alternate them on different days.
Find the right BHA exfoliator for your skin profile.
The BeautyDecoded application lets you scan any cosmetic product to visualize its suitability for your skin type and needs, based on INCI analysis.
Your questions about BHA
BHA or AHA: which to choose?
Can BHA be used every day?
Does BHA make skin sensitive to the sun?
Is BHA suitable for sensitive skin?
For go further
- Lu J, et al. Salicylic acid treats acne vulgaris by suppressing AMPK/SREBP1 pathway in sebocytes. Exp Dermatol. 2019;28(7):786-794. PMID: 30972839.
Information for educational purposes only. It does not replace a medical consultation and must be adapted to each individual. The compatibility scores generated by the application do not prejudge the individual tolerance of each skin type. Salicylic acid (BHA) is a photosensitizing exfoliant: daily SPF 50 sun protection is essential. It should be introduced gradually, and should not be combined with other exfoliants on the same day, or used simultaneously with retinol or copper peptides. In the case of sensitive skin, severe acne or skin pathology, dermatological advice is recommended. A tolerance test before first use is recommended.